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shibushe

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Everything posted by shibushe

  1. Thats a Zimo ID. The sound settings I think are along way down the page. Good Luck.
  2. HI. Is it possible for you to read the ID of the decoder with the equipment you have. That should give you its unique number as allocated by the NMRA. Once you have that, then you can find out the sound settings & adjustments.
  3. Send me PM with address. If you are quick enough may post Friday. Len.
  4. While I agree that cost is to be considered, and as you say, " Do I like it enough" I have used a 511 from the start over 10 years ago, didn't much take to any of the other manufactures. Bought the 611 when it came out, use the 511 as a slave. Personally I like it enough cant wait for the big screen. You can of course part exchange your 511 for a 611. By the way, you say your screen is playing up? I have a non back lit unit you can have it for free if it would be of use.
  5. Why not just give Graham a call at Taunton Controls on 01823 327155.
  6. Turn the loco the other way round if it still wont run in reverse then its the decoder.
  7. Totally Agree. Having recently installed 4 Code 100 Large radius points on DCC. straight out of the box. On test my N7 runs through At step 1 with no trouble. However I did have trouble with another point, could not work it out why it was shorting. Cured the problem by fitting a gauge master DDC80 polarity switch.
  8. Have you thought of looking at TrainTech lighting controls. Look very simple to me. No messing about with decoders etc.
  9. I have over the years tried many decoders. never rely been happy with a lot of them until I tried Zimo back in the days when most of my stock was tender drive Zimo was the only decoder that would perform. I now only use Zimo. I also found as a recent post of mine they cope with capacitors in place. The number of CVs available with these decoders is vast the variables available also. But, how many do you want to use, personally CVs 1 to 6 is all I need.
  10. I to have a problem with Distance. I keep a list of all my Locos mounted on a card. Not only does it show details of that Loco but its ID. So if I want to run a particular Loco I scroll through the saved roster to its ID number and thats it and off we go.
  11. Having fitted two Zimo MX 600R Decoders to two steam Locos. Hornby & Bachmann Its immediately noticeable that performance is superb at step 1 with no erratic running or shooting of at high speed. Back to the Teeth. In this case Capacitors. These are still in place, so the question is, have the manufacturer overcome the usual problem that these can cause. Thoughts anyone.
  12. Having experienced many decoders over the years, I find that Zimo are probably the best. They are the only decoder make that would successfully, for me, control the old tender drive locos. Lately have used the MX620. at £ 20 cant be bad.
  13. Locos shooting off like a scalded cats was usually put down to the TV capacitor. In saying that I have found that its most likely to happen with Steam. I have never had this problem with diesels, dont know why. It could be your second hand decoder. All I can suggest is to do a complete reset to default and see what happens.
  14. ​Thanks Guys. Lots of useful tips. I have Ian's book. As for tools, have most of what I need. ​Clock repairs have also been a hobby, so have reamers and broaches a plenty. Expect a return to this post when things go wrong. Trouble is summers coming and the wife has ideas. ​My scale would be mm.
  15. I have got to the point of advancing from detailing RTR models into Kit Building. As a retired time served engineer I am of course familiar with all the common hand tools. ( Still have them) ​Also a proficient solderer What else do I need. I gather i will need something to align the chassis. A bending tool, etc. So looking for advice forwhat I need and where to get it. ​Anything else you guys can think of. Regards, look forward replys.
  16. Same position as you on retirement. Went DCC from the start. Local Model shop didn't have a clue what DCC was about, then I got lucky. Just as I was leaving in walked a guy, an expert on DCC, invited to his home and layout. Gone midnight I was fully understanding of the basics. So where are you maybe someone can help. Personal opinion/ My point of view/ Go for Peco Live Frogs, nothing easier, no extra mods to do, just installed a double Xover works perfect. Used to control points via push buttons on the controller, waste of time. built a switch panel in the end. I could go om but that's enough. Good Luck.
  17. Ref to my original post. Installed 4 new large Electrofrog Pecos today. Work perfectly with no mods. Cant understand why had trouble last time, getting old maybe.
  18. Thanks for the info. Totally agree that its about time Peco did something positive regarding DCC users.
  19. I am aware that Pecos points are upgraded from what they used to be, Now there is a wire from the frog. So, apart from fitting insulated joiners in the usual place, do I still have to start cutting wires and soldering in bridge wires ? I intend using DCC80s from Gaugemaster, I suppose these are wired to the point frog wire? ​No other modification necessary. Yes or No ? Comment appreciated In the meantime, my track gang are sitting on there backsides with nothing to do. Line possession costs money.
  20. Roger. Thanks for that. Its not a split chassis, did one once, nightmare. Time for a dismantle see what's, what. I may be back.
  21. Thinking of fitting a Hornby TTS Decoder into a Loco Drive Bachmann A4. there is no room in the Loco Body, so That leaves the Tender. But, there are no pickups, so on my reckoning it cant be done ?
  22. ​Has anyone been successful in using this adaptor in a Bachmann Class 66 Locomotive. I ask because I have an adaptor & an 8 pin decoder, but no 21 Pin.
  23. Thanks for all your input which I will put into practice. Will of course report back.
  24. I have just changed all the electrics from a damaged tender chassis to a replacement. The only re-soldering I had to do was to the pick up connections. All the other bits, decoder, speaker was just a straight swap. Now there is no sound ? Any suggestions folks. PS. I bought this loco sound fitted, I suppose its a TTS Sound decoder ?
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