shibushe

Hi Tim. A problem. By its design the 21 pin decoders are of course big when compared with 8. The smallest/ thinnest decoder I have come across is made by CT Electronics. It is possible to use a 21 to 8 pin adaptor, I don't think this will solve your space requirement. I have a very small / thin CT decoder no longer wanted, you can have it for FREE if you want to fiddle with it in your situation.

From memory ( mine) This was explained some time back. Set the Lighting CVs to. CV49 - O. Cv50 - 16. CV61- 1. CV 64- 15. Check then that FO controls lighting. Dimming. CV 64 - 2. This is the lowest setting. 18 being the brightest. This programing was for a TCS Decoder, as RFS says may not work.

It is important to only use two wire colours from Bus To Track. Never use these colours for any other wiring on your Layout. So, Have you accidently crossed say, A red outer track wire to an inner Black. Just a thought.

Just be careful with your soldering. I didn't, hence failed. You will soon know, lots of brown smoke.

Have had similar problem recently. On seeking advise from the decoder supplier he suggested this. Turn the Loco the other way round, see if it still does it. It did. This proved in my case that the decoder was faulty. Its replacement was fine. May not be your solution, just thought I would mention it.

Yes Insulated fish Plates both ends. Program output is fed to this piece of track. Once into Prog mode the voltage is reduced to protect the decoder from frying incase there is a fault within the loco or decoder.

This how I do it works fine. bearing in mind the fine detail of Locos nowadays you don't want to keep picking them up and replacing them. My Prog track is incorporated in a running line insulated at both ends. Once I have set a Cv say Cv5 Top Speed its a simple matter of running it out on the main. If the setting is fine then that's it. If its not then run in back to program and rest.

Here's a question. If a 611 can accept the new 612 screen, wont we have to have an upgrade to handle the extra info that this new large screen will have? Anyone with inside info please report.

For 611 owners that's a bonus, A new 612 is going to be very expensive, probably nearer ECoS price.

If then it has no port, and any further upgrades are available, the only way would be to send it to Taunton. Upgrade would probably be free except the postage. Cheap Parcel post via one of the independent couriers.

Ryan. I am not sure how you will know if the upgrade to the 511 has been done unless the owner is honest and tells you. The upgrade was offered as a DIY job or send it back for free to be done. ZTC went through some changes of ownership some time back so there are no records. I think the only way to tell is if the chip inside has a number and that Taunton Controls (ZTC) have info on it. The 611 is out of production I think, as the new 711 is in production. This 711 will knock the spots of all the others. Enjoy you 511, it may be dated but does a good job, had mine for years, now linked as a slave to my 611.

Phil. I think this option is best from your point of view. Take the blown unit with you see what Digitrains have to say, always found them to be most helpful. Keep us posted.

I looked at a number of DCC Controllers over 10 years ago and settled for 511. Since then I have a 611. Both are linked. The 511 being a slave. This is a great improvement on the old 511. Yes ZTC did go through a period of disruption but is more stable now that the new owner is committed to its development. Plus you have dedicated phone support. Why does it suit me. I have a problem with grip, so an hand held was out for a start. I like its design, not to many button presses to operate. It reads and writes. A new larger screen is on its way, you will be able to link it to a monitor on the wall if you wish. I know its costly, but then if you can afford it why not. Why buy a mini when you can afford a Jag. By the way, its BRITISH.

Sorted. All my fault. Did not do a proper reset 8 to 8. Wrist has been slapped & lesson learnt.

Hi Guys. Reading all your valued replies makes me think, although I wanted a reset to default, I think I asked to read the decoders ID instead. I will check this out tomorrow and report. If I am wrong, and you do not know where I live, then I will slap my own wrist.

Reset was to factory default 3. Not a change of loco ID. This Loco is a Tender Drive A4. I fitted a new 5 pole motor and to get the best performance I hotwired a Zimo decoder. It would start at a very slow at step 1. Even with the throttle wide open

I have a Loco fitted with a Zimo MX621 decoder. I had reason to reset this to Default 3. I expected this loco to move straight away once the throttle was opened. It didn't. With a progressive opening of the throttle it slowly started to move up to speed. This should only happen if there is variable set to CV3. Any thoughts.

DCC 80s. Quick, Simple, Cheap. For me anyway.

Just a quick mention regarding Decoders. Zimo. ( Which I am a fan ) Searching for a suitable decoder I ended up on the Youchoose web site. Having been unable to get what I wanted elsewhere. Bough two Zimo MX600Rs. So what did I hear, It was the price actually. £ 19.99 for a Zimo. Plus the service from Youchoose could not have been better. Usual Disclaimer.

Locomotive kits in NS / Brass / White metal. 00 4mm. Ex Lner/ BR. No problem with soldering, or the use of engineering tools to obtain the necessary alignment etc. I believe I will need some sort of chassis jig and bending tool. I await your reply's with interest.

Awhile back I asked for recommendations for books on this subject and have obtained a good copy of same as I intend to have a go at my first kit. I have another question for you accomplished kit builders. It bothers me that its apparent that some kits require more than just fettling that's to be expected. When it comes to having to modify or even re- make bits that just don't fit I can see me binning it. In one instance that I have come across is a hole for a bush where the hole is to big for the bush requiring a remake using skills I don't have ie a lathe. Who then from your experience makes the best 4mm kits where apart from some fettling bits will fit.

Eddie. Look forward to seeing your installation, plus your opinion.

I have a pack of these they seem simple enough not into complex wiring. As yet not fitted any, my instruction sheet is not clear. So a question. Does the frog wire actually go to the frog??

Yes Could be just that. I always turn off track power when removing or placing a Loco on it. I have seen some pretty violent sparking at times. Keep us informed.

Sounds to me something's loose a wire maybe, a dry soldered joint can do this. All I can suggest is change the decoder see if the lights work ok. may give you some idea where to look. Good luck.