ThaneofFife

Here is another shot from the front......to achieve the fairly low level light effect on the headcode markers was a simple case of adjusting the requisite CV from 7 to 0. as all the lights seem to be on the same dimmer CV it helped tone down those corridor lights too but with an extra helping hand of some varnish and paint Ive also written to Bachmann with some feedback about the lighting functions and this has been passed onto the relevant people/dept and will hopefully result in improvements/tweaks to future models/retools.

Some more decent 85 photos for reference........ http://www.flickr.co...@N08/5296894725 On an Inter City Motorail services with the short lived early IC executive fully branded Mk1s. Very attractive. http://www.flickr.co...@N02/7165943528 http://www.flickr.co...@N08/6721374047 Tasty b&w shot with an RMB Mk1 leading.......wish I was hanging out of the window like that guy. http://www.flickr.co...@N05/7385266060 Good shot showing a lot of the oil/grease detail points if you are into weathering your new 85s. http://www.flickr.co...ol-1608831@N23/ 85005 on the blocks at the Euston most of us dont recognise (or like) anymore....... http://www.flickr.co...@N08/6880050208 A mint 85024 at WN. http://www.flickr.co...@N04/6056323336 Some night shots...... http://www.flickr.co...@N06/6200626137 http://www.flickr.co...@N07/6015738212 The rear loco has its corridor lights on - so different to those fitted to the Bachmann model............ Here is 005 again in readiness to haul ECS to Lime Street http://www.flickr.co...@N06/5942254521 Nice side on shot showing the pan assembly and the pipework inside the loco corridor too. http://www.flickr.co...@N08/3297202537 Finally I could do with some pointers on one little detail that I have been looking at modelling. I have been looking at some photos of 85s with a view to adding some detail using angle or brass rod to the front of the leading bogies. Here is a close up of 85026 the actual TOPS version from Bachmann. To my eye it appears to have a cross bracing between the upright T shaped angle iron rail guards yet i cant see this clearly in most other photos. Maybe the photo is deceptive as it could equally be the cross brace rodding for the sanding gear pipes (another detail I want to add when I get the damn time not to mention the lamp brackets!). Maybe if you have a link to a really clear full frontal shot showing this detail this could provide a cut and dried answer and it would no doubt serve to help others who might want to go down the same route with their detailing work. It would be good to see a clear photo of the additional jumper socket on the secondman side under the buffer beam too as most photos show the other side. Also managed to have a bash at addressing the over bright corridor lights and this has turned out OK given I was working with the factory LEDs - those fitted to Hornby models for the cab lights give off a very realistic light indeed but for now I am happy with this result as it doesnt silly running on the layout with them on either anymore.still no wires for those offended at the very thought of a lack of them Just think of it as a WIP.

Interesting paint job on the wiper arms=blue above the roof line and grey/silver below. Not seen that before. The lead loco has only just stayed under the contact wire too if it arrived under its own power. Never knew Garston docks even had a 25kv stabling facility.... I havent seen anyone here fit lamp irons above the buffers on their 85s, something I am contemplating, but they could foul the body-they do sit very close and I suspect are in such a position as to be easily broken off if not handled with real care. Mine are currently in the experimental stages!

Yes thanks for the tips on the paint colour (Humbrol 29) and bogie frame removal Jim. Big thanks to Andi re the pantograph modification though and of course Cav - who I will be borrowing his idea from for those dark greasy buffers If a few others out there benefit from one or two of my little ideas then cool. The bent bodyside grille louvre illusion is one of the easiest to conjour up with the aid of a flat screwdriver! Most of the 85s seems to have copped for this damage during their lives. The actual weathering was not only easier than first envisaged but very theraputic too ! And some people say its a dark art!

i prefer the way the support for the upper arm running from the base hooks into the upper arm itself on that RTC loco rather than into the high protruding rear elbow on the new Bachmann model. Its about the only thing I dont like about the pan and will have a bash at some point to remedy mine for a more authentic look or if somebody more skilled beats me to it............. the higher the pan is the less obtrusive that elbow looks but all of mine will be set fairly low. What tends to happen under pressure on the head is that the upper arm lowers first leaving the lower arm still (to a point) so you dont really get a 50/50 stance of both arms with the elbow at the halfway point in height terms (a bit anal I know). Some patient tweaking is on the cards then but its all part of the fun.

I know we dont see much of it in real life but Ive decided my layout is set in sunnier times and given the driver a visor so he can keep an eye on the road ahead! Although new to weathering I'm pleased to have picked it up quite easily. Its clearly not just about spraying a loco in frame dirt! The centre window has since been "cleaned" and looks much better.

is this the section where you run at a scale 100mph?

interesting its gets a secondman!

the rail express review couldnt find much wrong. undernourished brake actuators and oversized wiper arms being about it. fingers crossed Bachmann decide to produce more ACs in the coming years as the diesel guys have had it all their own way for far too long.

Pantographs do not bounce at all - to my mind the term bounce constitutes the carbon contact strips leaving the wire and then returning back onto it and of course that just doesnt happen - if they did they would be sparking a lot more than we used to see them and it would possibly interfere with all manner of on train functions. The upward tension the pan places on the contact wire does give a very slight amount of give in the wire over longer stretches between masts and the pan would accommodate this slack but Jim is right about the movement in the pan mainly being down to the locomotives up and down suspension movement or indeed track alignment. The pans wouldnt last 5 minutes if they were bouncing on and off the wire at a constant 100mph.

The sketch in Fawlty Towers (Waldorf Salad) when the brusque yank Mr Robinson says to Basil "shall we go to bed now, would that make it easier for you?" springs to mind here. Many layouts on this forum will undoubtedly be works in progress (like my own Muir Bank shown above) and not exhibition layouts being judged for every accuracy or inaccuracy. Even more so when the photos are not really for any competition. Its usually quite clear what the situation is and requires no further explanation (usually!). One of the key "Do"'s when building a layout based on an overhead electrified railway is to finish your lineside scenic work and ballasting BEFORE installing masts and catenary - its one of the little golden rules I have been sticking to as ballasting or tackling other scenic work around catenary would be tricky and it goes without saying you risk damaging the OHLE with it in situ first. Seems some folk would prefer us to refrain from purchasing any AC electric models until the catenary had been made and erected What before I've bought any baseboards?

Not quite as quick off the mark as some of the other guys here with their 85s but here is a bit of progress with mine - sans catenary! Its still a WIP as you can see from the masking tape on the windows, unweathered bodysides and buffer beams but its coming along. I am awaiting delivery of a new airbrush to complete. Also weathered some of my Mk1 stock too and these are shown in the photos. I really like the idea of using the supplied screw links as these are long enough to work without fouling on my layout and it helps that the buffers on the coaches at each end of my rakes are fitted with sprung rather than fixed type buffers. This is much better than having locos running about with a tension lock on one end and nothing on the other or a kadee. The plan is also to have a dabble with fixing up some brake pipes fitted with magnets between this 85 and a Mk1 - if successful I will roll it out to all my locos and coaches (on the ends of rakes) as this will be the icing on the cake. It will be more fiddly than conventional coupling options but at leats it will look the part and make coupling/uncoupling a real time experience. I cant stand exhibitors who shunt or run around in seconds with locos at full speed in a small yard - not very authentic at all.

Some more 85 snaps..... 85 017 after arriving at Northampton on a Cobbler. http://www.leightonlogs.org/13098485017b07.jpg nice close up profile shot of 85 025 still with headcode box and possibly sans pantograph. Both sides of the Class 85 on view side by side at Carlisle Lovely shot of 85 027 fresh out of the works. Despite the outshop note no orange cant rail stripe at this time in 1977 so either it was applied shortly after or not applied at all until the 1980s. Ready to roar up Camden Bank....note the strange yellow patch job on the front lower left side.

Michael - That collection is a great find with my favourites being 85007 with the open parcels van and the interesting 85 hauling the Mk3 sleepers-check out the yellow pipe across the front. Only seen these painted orange until seeing this one. I wonder if I can challenge you to find some roof shots and shots of the cab interiors or even the relay rooms???? Ive tried believe me and cant find anything other than external shots but I still look. PMC - thanks for tips about the drilling.

In the context of the TOPS model I am not sure if it was for variation reasons but Ive discovered today that on the buffer beam no provision is made to fit the red brake pipe to this version. This may have been intentional by Bachmann as looking at photos early versions had different arrangements meaning some models would have ended up with a hole that had no real use if they were not air braked. Bit nervous about taking a drill to my model in this awkward spot. Some of you guys have fitted the pipe - did you drill a pilot hole or just cut the fitting back slightly and glue straight on? I can see this detailing part getting lost if its just relying on being glued to the face of the beam...... The tiny little screw link couplings supplied look superb. On the point of packaging i sent off a Heljan class 86 recently and noticed it was flopping around by a good 10mm either way inside the foam holder risking damage as it gets kicked around in the royal mail - i bolstered it in firmly with some strategically placed offcuts of bubble wrap including stuffing some into the overly large empty area that contains the relatively tiny "detailing pack" if you can call it that.

unless you plan on selling the model anytime soon I would go for a tiny dab of glue admitted with the usual cocktail stick onto the pan where it contacts the base and hold it down until it is set. should be easy enough to slice through the glue with a sharp craft knife if you decide to sell the model later. in the lowered position I dont think its possible to the elbow between upper and lower arms to sit right down (if this is what you mean by the "tail"). Clipped down mine still sits up at the back.

Correct as they would have travelled these metals as far as Paisley Gilmour Street before heading south. The Royal Scot service to Euston ran from Ayr for a short time although I cant recall seeing roarers on these services - this one in particular was timed for 110mph anyway from Glasgow and so tended to be Class 87 or 90 hauled. that said how about this photo - a roarer on the very service you mentioned! . I can well believe the 115mph on the Wemyss Bay line as it does have some lengthy stretches of straight track. A real shame few people took interest enough to film them more at these stranger locations. I recall seeing a photograph of a Class 85 at Hazel Grove another 25kV AC outpost where you wouldnt expect to find main line machines - I believe it was testing out the recently energised overheads in readiness for the mundane emu units.

yeah the height was something that was rattling me. i have two more sets of 85040 decals so i think i might have another bash and set em lower down the cabsides. thanks for the tip about the bogies Jim. they do need a bit of a push but theyre off at last with no breakages. reason is i want to black out the contact strips prior to weathering.

Model master transfers arrived today. I have found these to be smaller than the ones on the factory model. Original plan was to leave the "85" digits on and just replace the last 3 numbers but alas the different font size put the kybosh on that idea. Its come out OK - what do you guys think about the size of the numbers? Measuring them they come out at a tad over 2mm tall. Strangely the factory 85026 numbers are about the same height - I think its the thickness of the numbers that makes them look larger than the more spindly Modelmaster decals. Its bothering me and I know it really shouldnt! Anyway here is a pic. I want to address the pan head issue next as mine will be fixed at a fairly low height..... One question is how do the bogie frames come away to reveal the wheelsets? Ive tried picking away at the apparent joins with a flat bladed screwdrive but its not been successful. Does one need to drop the bogie motor towers and release the frames from the top?

good pics as usual mike. just one note-where the (shall we call it the exhauster pipe - is that what it is?) pipe enters the shadow on the left it doesnt continue up at the same angle but levels off for the remainder of the run-this is what you will see in normal lighting conditions but this photo does give a closer view of the exhauster. good to see another advocate of daytime running with visible lighting. it was always there, one just had to look at the locos "properly"!

i suspect Mike that the routing or at least the form of the pipe in question changed or got modified in the early years as those photos show the shape is very different to those we have seen on the BR blue versions. I am still tweaking my own pipe as the early attempts werent positioned right in the window. Whilst posting, how does one access the wheel sets because I cant see how these bogie towers are dismantled underneath? I want to paint the pick up strips behind the bogie frame blacks so it would be good to get them off the model. is it a similar set up to the old Lima models where you simply prise up the long plastic piece with "Bachmann Branchline" stamp on it, out? there is no obvious slot to insert a screwdriver and pry the coverplate up.

Having a go at renumber one of my 85s and well its not going well. Here is a pic. On the other side I must have accidentally caught a tiny spec of the "0" but actually thats worked out OK as some locos did run about with bits of the numbers missing. Who has found a renumbering technique that works well for them? I applied a tiny bit of turps subsitute on the end of a cocktail stick and lightly pawed at the numbers however on cleaning up after I found i had made the blue underneath go a bit paler and slightly below the numbers as i was dragging the stick down in one direction to pick at the numbers. Its not ruined by any stretch but i just think i might need steering in a better direction here especially as I have another one to renumber. I dare say most aberrations will be invisible with weathering. I tried to leave the "0" as the plan was to simply change the last 2 digits but is it easier to just take this off too? Are 3 digit transfers available with the "0" leading? where do you buy you buy your replacement numbers from ? Having them for all of the last 3 digits of the loco rather than painfully trying to line up 3 individual transfers close to each other would make life easier. I think I would prefer a rub on transfer but again what works best for you? also i would like to add the etches-whats best for fixing these?

So far over and above other "spots" I have noticed that the square box (vented on the corridor side) on the roof nearest to the air tanks is underheight and by some distance looking at photos of the prototype. I didnt realise how tall this particular piece of equipment was. It is almost level with the tops of the lowest air tanks. Looking at this image I do wonder if the box on our models is either moulded incorrectly with vents to one side only or Bachmann have fitted it facing the wrong way. If its simply facing the wrong way then i dare say it will be easy to remove it turn it around and refit which might give one the chance to "build up the height" a little. This photo is nice example of the equipment in question......you can see this box (1) should tower above the long slim box (2) next to it between the hidden DC switches box (3). I will try and finf a photo from the equipment side to see if vents appear that side too. http://www.martinbra...lesp-050986.jpg It doesnt bother me much right now so I dont think I will touching mine just yet but as the thread begins to comment more and more on the nitty gritty details it should be mentioned for the purposes of record. Has anybody else spotted the AWS sensor under the loco at the inner end of one of the bogies(non-decoder end)? Bachmann have done a great job on this model even on some of the things youll be hard pressed to see on a layout!

Nice touch with the silver showing behind the back of the buffers (something I suggested to Bachmann last year in order to retain the sprung buffers-painting just bungs them up). Is there any story behind choosing to renumber them 18 and 20 Jim?

Re-gear to 80mph? Talk about not hanging around though.........The best work Ive seen Cav.