JCL

Hi there, I've just had a look, and unfortunately the STL file is corrupt. I've sent regme a message.

Ok, right post, right thread. Mike, you were looking at antialiasing a short time ago. Here’s a couple of posts from a Lychee slicer FB group

“Standard is meaningless on the MonoX because you have to slow down printer below 3seconds in order give the printer enough time to read the USB stick 8 times and generate its blur on the fly.  

I've had great results using "Blur". I may be wrong, but it seems to be *effectively* the same thing, only doing it in advance and making it part of the file instead of asking the printer to do all the heavy lifting.

Basically. It takes several seconds for the firmware to read the frame 8 times, apply a gradiated blur and then expose. So you wind up having to go over 3seconds of exposure. Meaning you have to dial down the UV% way low to compensate... like 30-40%.

That totally defeats the value of a fast mono screen printer.

You don't subvert it. Its a flaw. Done. Deal with it.

Instead you just don't use the built-in "standard" a.a.

Using blur in Lychee where it *pre*blurs the images instead of relying on the firmware of the printer to do the work is the best work-around I know at this time.”

His settings are:

radius: 10px

grey offset: 50%
antialias on supports: off

The original post is here: 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/LycheeSlicer/permalink/793114854944253/?__cft__[0]=AZVlTqVdlYSGLpo9G2S0KEMUcYKPXxHWHhbSDAkeFnz0mvOo2rhYM2ofAzUM0UQD_vozRiQZkHtQKYZpLQWdbEK4zaR1sttobHbBlgc-nf4p1dKF543c1JgxQI-FYUoFERnh95Jx_h8johhbpltyTW1sZdE8q5kAK1onwHUOPO_UR1lT6p0Xyn0H7EdL1szP7SY&__tn__=%2CO%2CP-R
 

Hi there,

I can have a look at your file(s) and see if I can work out what’s happening if you like. If I can work out what’s happening and get it visible, I could send you a blend file in return.

cheers

Jason

Posted in the wrong thread

A lot of things have happened since my last post, but I've finally managed to find the time to upload the STL files. Unfortunately they're a bit too big for here, and RMWeb doesn't allow zip files, so to get around this, I've uploaded the files to my Google Drive account.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1d2Z2UvWY1TERnnSIdv12fp14ZI5tZgDB?usp=sharing

The bogie wheels I used were Bachmann wagon wheels; the buffers I stole from my earlier attempt with the Silhouette, and I think they came from Wizard Models. If used, the Hornby motor bogie, which is a friction fit, slides between the frames and is held at the right height by bracing.  There are boxes to hold nuts for 8BA bolts at each end, and for each of the bogies. The partitions mean they're a bit fiddly, but I pushed the nuts in with tweezers. There is a guide hole in the exhaust duct if you want to ream it out to have the fan spinning, and there is a slot between the top of the exhaust duct and the inside of the roof for some mesh.

If you're printing it in resin, you should find all holes are the right size, but if not, don't use bigger drills bits as they have too much bite and could crack your model. Use reamers instead. I'm thinking about the holes for the 8BA bolts here.

Wheels: https://www.Bachmann.co.uk/product/metal-spoked-wagon-wheels-(x10)/36-014

Big old disclaimer coming up! Please note that the model tolerances are designed for my printer, and you might find that you need to do a bit of sanding depending on how you print yours, or have yours printed. You'll definitely need to sand around the chassis arches to make sure the bogies swing far enough for your curves. Also, I've not looked at them for ages, so please give the files a good check over before you print them.

Please don't post the files anywhere else.

Finally, if you put one together, please let me know how you got on/take a photo.

cheers

Jason

Well they look like they are fitting together pretty well, it'll be interesting to see your v2 and how crisp you can get your edges.

Nice! I have to say, cutting the Shapeways cord was a good move for me, especially up here in Canada.

If this is aimed in part at the steampunk community, you might be interested in a film I found last night - “Mortal Engines”. The plot was no Oscar winner, but the visual effects  won awards. They were done by Weta who did the Lord of the Rings, etc

Wow, that's amazing! It's brilliant to see that a free program can produce work like that.

In a far more mundane situation, I created the general shapes of my house yesterday so that my wife could see what the changes to our roofline would look like - we were also able to send the image to the builder to check.

Slightly off topic, but something to show how capable Blender is if you have the time and inclination.

Radek Grec has been using Blender for a few years, and recently he's been putting his short videos up on the Blender Beginners Facebook group that I'm also a member of. He's been using his model of a streamlined diesel to learn different aspects of the program, and put his results together in this short film.

I promised some doors, so here are three different doors you can do, and only one new command to think about. You can use these basic doors as a basis for a whole load of different door styles. The stable door could become a single or double factory door, and the panels on the panelled door could be done in many different ways. You could create one big panel, delete it, and have a glass door (make two, one slightly in front of the other, and you have sliding patio doors), and it wouldn't take too much to turn a panelled door into French doors.

On 08/03/2021 at 04:50, Crosland said:

 

I've seen far too many when looking for a new house. Ridiculous idea in a domestic setting IMHO.

We bought a house with one in - it was one of the first things that came out!

I've the pump house to do, and I'd like to investigate windows and doors as well, so there will be more to come. In the meantime, here's the last one in this series.

I'm on a Microsoft 10 machine, so I can take advantage of MS 3D Builder to repair any problems with the model that I've created. This is the easiest way of checking your model, as it's just a simple button click. I can honestly say that I've never had a problem with a file that has gone through that step.

If you have a different version of Windows, a Mac or other software, then there are more options out there that give you a varying amount of control. I link the simple one button click as I'm no longer one to tinker with tools. These include, but aren't limited to:

• Netfabb online repairer - needs a good internet connection as you'll be probably creating big files.
  https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
• Meshmixer 
  https://www.meshmixer.com/ - Windows and Mac
• Meshlab
  https://www.meshlab.net/ - Windows, Mac and Linux

And like Blender, they're all free!

Remember - always check/repair your file before printing or firing off to Shapeways!

I'm mainlining videos today.

Creating the base of the roof. Not difficult, especially if you've been following along, but there are a couple of things you can do to make life a bit easier.

And finally, tiling your roof.

Finally, a very small addendum. If you remember, I said that the mortar was too deep on the right hand side. In the video below, I show you how to fixt this. Apologies for the bodging, but I imagine it's useful to know how to fix small issues if they arise.

The last video that I still have to do will be exporting and then repairing the building to an STL file that you can then import into a slicer and print or send to Shapeways.

The second video today (I know, nothing comes along, and then two come in at the same time) will show you how to create a basic door and window.

In addition to the array modifier, I've made use of the boolean modifier this week. This modifier will allow you to punch holes in the sides of your walls for windows and doors. I've shown you the quick and dirty way of doing this. There are other more elegant ways, so if I get a chance, I'll show them at a later date.

Time has been very short in the last couple of weeks, but while the house has been quiet, I've managed to knock off a couple more videos. Prepare to be bombarded.

The first video will show you how to create the wooden upper walls using the planking method we looked at a few weeks ago.

Hi @animotion, I don't have any flexible, but I do have a Dremel. The last time I did finials, I used the toothpick, small triangular file and the Dremel as a lathe.  

@jaym481, I was thinking that the other day, on https://www.myminifactory.com, they call them campaigns.

I also agree about postage to Canada, it was one of the reasons I bought my first printer.

Hi there

You have a couple of options and a couple of things to be wary of.

Within Blender, if you select everything, you might think you can scale using the fields in the transform sidebar. Unfortunately, the way Blender treats selections means you can't. When you select a group of objects, one object in the selection is the active object, and all of the others are inactive objects. Any sort of transformation you do will only be done to the active object within your selection. The video shows this happening.

So that won't work, but there are a couple of options. The first option is the one I would use.

1. Select all
2. Press S to scale, then rescale
3. If necessary, use the scale options that pop up in the bottom left of the screen

This will rescale everything around the centre of the selected objects - which I think is what you're asking about.

When scaling, once in a while one of the selected objects will scale in a different way to all of this others. This is because a transform needs to be accepted - if you remember Ctrl-A will fix this)

Another option is to join everything together in Object mode by selecting them and pressing the J key. The only downsides here are that:

• when objects are joined, any unfinished modifiers (such as array, scale, etc) are discarded
• when you separate them again, your old object names will have disappeared, and are replaced by a single object name for all the previously joined objects with the suffix .001, .002, .003 etc

Back up to a new file name before doing anything major!

(No sound, the puppy is playing with squeaky toys and making a racket!)

If you are slicing and printing the model yourself, you can use the slicing software to rescale the model before you print it. Shapeways also offers this service.

Does that help?

11 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

 

Thats the Sheila with wings I thank every time I go down to my shed and see a 9 hour print happily suspended from the build plate in all its success. "Thank you print angel" I say.

At which my heart leaps with joy!

Ok, in this video, I'm creating the first three rows of bricks that will form the foundation of the shed. Of course, if you are creating a brick built shed, then you would make sure that the bricks go all the way up to the eaves. In our case, the main part of the shed will be wooden, so there will be a bit more work to do.

Hi there, can you export to svg? I’ve exported drawings from Inkscape and Illustrator into Blender using that format. They come out pretty well - although, usually too small and on the wrong plane, but that is quickly rectified.

On 17/02/2021 at 09:41, Clive Mortimore said:

Why does the bloke who looks at me in the morning from the other side of the mirror look like my dad?

 

 

My dad once told me that when he was playing football in the park as a kid, an ‘old man’ would be sat on a bench watching them. And one day as he was sat, he realized the old man was him.

(so he moved to Thailand)

Hi Mick

You’re not the first, and won’t be the last. When we meet people, we tell them he’s a boy, and they still call him “she”

Thanks Mick, mini- me is a girl, Amber, and the big un is a boy, Austin