JCL

Thanks everyone, I’ll give it another go on Monday and try the different suggestions.

It’s been a year and a quarter since my last confession. For the first time since I moved I am able to permanently out the printer somewhere, and now I’m getting back up to speed with the Ender 3 And all of its little gotchas 🙂

I went crazy and decided that, instead of printing something small, I’d test print my skills with a reprint of the Havenhouse station in PLA. Well, I’ve got some fine tuning to do! It’s not absolutely awful, but things could be a lot better. The window bars I’m definitely pleased with, but the stretcher brick edges are too rounded and the gaps too big. Interestingly, in the dear wing, the gap between bricks in the stretcher layers are the same as those in the header layers.

It’s currently printed on a .4mm nozzle with a .2mm layer height. Now I’ve done this, I’ll see about making a smaller wall and try to produce some better samples.

if anyone has any advice, then I’d be happy to receive it!

I think you’re a lot better than you think you are - they look great!

All good now, just don't seem to have had much spare time over the last few months. On the up side, I'm unboxing the printers, so hopefully I'll be able to do some work with them soon - if I can remember how! 🤔

On 07/04/2023 at 08:27, woko said:

Hello Jason

 

I have heard about this hot water trick does it work? I sometimes use hot water to remove supports!

I’m sorry, I’ve not been on for a while - yes, it definitely works - I had to use that method on a GNR G1 which came out somewhat bent

It'll be very interesting to see how you get on. Will you be putting your build on Youtube?

on the warping, is it too far gone for hot water and finessing?

@rue_d_etropal I think you missed my "Obviously other people’s mileage may vary" as I realise some people still rely on cds and dvds.

That said, I don't think I've ever had much of a problem with malevolent stray magnetic fields attacking my downloads. 🙂

@njee20 I was thinking about this, I don’t believe I’ve had a cd/dvd player inside or attached to a computer for about 5 years. I wouldn’t be interested in purchasing flash drives either, as digital downloads mean I could purchase a file and have it on my computer within a few minutes.

Obviously other people’s mileage may vary.

On 15/03/2023 at 04:20, woko said:

 

That made me chuckle when put like that Giles none of us are ever gunna get rich making trains!!! Good job its a passion and not a livelihood :)  

 

PS. I still would love to see some of this huge collection printed, proof is in the pudding! :) 

 

 

I think you've hit the nail on the head there. While it would be great to be paid enough for the files to make a living, it's never going to happen. When I've put files up here for free in the past, I'm not even paid a compliment! 🙂

Although sites like Cults doesn't do much in the way of model railways, maybe now is the time to start a trend by putting a few up there, telling people on here they're available and seeing what happens. You'd probably be better off putting up models that are more popular (there's a reason why it feels like Hornby creates a new A4 every other year). Then Cults can take care of the sales and downloads. Thingiverse, as far as I'm aware (I've not logged in for a while), is only for giving away files for free.

I've said to Woko in the past, that if he ever puts his models for sale online, I'd certainly be up for buying some!

Thank you! I’ve been away from it for a long time (logistics and motivation), but I’ve moved house and have a place to start again, so hopefully I’ll be able to resurrect that thread :)

That is absolutely beautiful

Woah, I'm in!

cheers Andy

Hi Andy,

You'll be pleased to know I'm already sold on the benefits ;) - just making sure I set it up correctly. Will set it up tomorrow.

Thanks for your help!

Jason

Hi there, I've been subscribing to the mag using Pocketmags since 2012, and I've finally remembered this year not to renew so I can take advantage of WOR+.

Although I've read through this topic, I've a few questions before I signup.

• Until now, I've read all my mags on my iPad using the Pocketmags app. I know I'll not be using that app gonig forward but after 10 years, I'm v used to its ease of use. Will I be reading them using a browser if I sign up via WOR+? If so , is the look and feel comparable (or better?) ?
• I live on the West coast of Canada, so the chances of me getting to a show would be practically zero. Can I transfer the free ticket to a friend?
• Am I right in assuming I'll need to create a WOR account. For it to tie in with RMWeb, do I just use the same email address as I do here? I don't want to muck things up while setting everything up.

cheers

Jason

Morning all

I've been working on something on and off for quite a while with @twiggyforest2 and @chris p bacon. It's an 00 gauge GNR L1 (LNER R1) 0-8-2T that was designed for suburban trains but was found to be unsuitable. It was subsequently sent up to Yorkshire on coal train duties.

I'm tweaking a couple of things, but it's all but done now.

9 hours ago, rue_d_etropal said:

Another thing to remember that is if you intend to sell models printed then you will need software that is licensed to do commercial work. Something many just ignore, but if you don't something might happen in future and you either end up in court or lose rights to all your work. It might also make it more difficult to prove ownership of designs if someone else gets hold of them. 

Good point.  It's only a problem if someone pirates commercial software or uses a free version of commercial software that excludes use for commercial purposes. I've not tried FreeCad, but a lot of people say it's v good. Personally I use and love Blender (also free for any purpose), but that one is a bit like marmite.

Good luck with your plans!

18 minutes ago, monkeysarefun said:

Here is the same but usually due to it being mid 40's and therefore 50+ in my printing shed. One particularly hot day sent one of my LCD screens black. Not on a printer happily, on a multimeter. 

Nasty - the black screen happened to my laptop once as I was working outside on the deck. I'm a website designer, so you can imagine my panic.

@drduncan, I did something similar with a greenhouse plant propagator heater, which I could wrap around the casing of the printer. Around this I had some solid foam insulation sheet with a removeable front. It was 'rustic' but meant I could use the shed to print if the shed's ambient temp stayed about 10C

@woko, hi feller, I agree, by definition the resin printers will be better, but I think it depends on how much detail is acceptable and what you're looking to do.. The wagon is currently broken down into body sides and ends, roof, underframe, and brakes. The brake lever would need to also be separate as that's the thing that is creating the blobs on the photo above.

New filament arrived today, so my light blue phase is finally over.

I started off a variant of the wagon I showed above. This time I’m having a go at .1mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle. It’s 4h27m in, and has 2h40m to go. Also thought I’d Try the Cura supports, rather than doing my own.

And here’s an interesting quote from Gerhard

Quote

Hello Bernd, 
I cannot comment on the Dremel printer. But in general I can only recommend a printer where you can use nozzles with different diameters. I work almost exclusively with my models with a diameter of 0.25mm. With larger diameters, fine details such as rivets (diameter 0.3mm) etc. may not come out. For large smooth parts like floors for the buildings, I use a 0.4mm nozzle. 
About the bricks: I "wall" the bricks like a craftsman. I created a brick library. So I then add appropriate sizes. Here I work with multiple copies and patterns. But there are other options too.
My joint width is 0.3 mm. The bricks protrude 0.2 mm from the wall. My brick size is 2.8x1.3x0.8mm. With a joint width of 0.3mm, you can still see the bricks from a greater distance. But that's a matter of taste. 
I hope that I could help you a little. 

Greetings 
Gerhard

Hi Simon, 

they look like great results. One thing I do have it time, and my prints take about 50% longer on my profiles than they do on stock. That pedigree cattle body prints overnight.

I’ve been on that German site for hours now. The man is a machine - and the quality is amazing. There is a lot of information on there, and while he’s obviously at the top of his game, hopefully I’ll be able to use some of what he’s doing. The first step is that I’ve sent off for some .2mm and .3mm nozzles and the CR Touch bed auto leveller.

@PaulaDoesTrains, when using the finer nozzle, did you have to make many tweaks to the settings? 

For anyone that’s interested, using this link will translate the 75 page thread into English.

https://www-stummiforum-de.translate.goog/t171433f180-M-glichkeiten-mit-einem-D-FDM-Drucker-W-rstchenleger.html?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

cheers

jason

@monkeysarefun, would you like me to test print a bit of one of your walls?

Hi there, haven’t got to bricks yet, but I can tell you I’ve been looking at wagons, and I’ve been able to print the planks individually without any change.

Here’s a 4mm scale Great Northern pedigree bull van. If you look, you can see some layer lines, but not nearly as many as I thought, and for me, it passes the 3ft rule. It also bounces when you drop it . I was surprised the lamp hooks came out, and they are proud of the body.

For ease of painting, I’m thinking of printing the clerestory at the top separately.

it’s been undercoated, and given a brush of Vallejo Fire Red.

The fruit can is an earlier one, I originally looked at @woko’s exceptional model, and then decided to do my own so I could change things to suit the printer.

This time, after undercoating, it was given a coat of sandy brown before the fire red. I think the colour is a closer match to what I was looking for. I still have a few things to work out on this, but bear in mind nothing was sanded. I’m still working out printing the underframe.  When I print this again, I won’t include the footboards and brake lever, and I’ll support the bottom better so it doesn’t warp slightly. In real life, at least for me, the warp isn’t too noticeable.

Both models were printed with .12mm layer height.

Thanks for the info Simon. I only have .4mm nozzles at the moment. What’s your experience working with .2mm rather than .4mm?

Thanks Paula, I'll have a look this evening.

update - I couldn't help myself and had a search through the videos