JCL

Here you go! She is currently taking up a lot of my time. Mainly keeping her out of trouble  to say our lives are revolving around her at the moment is an understatement.

That said, today we start the shed. I’ve part 1 done, and part 2, the brick base, was recorded while she was asleep this afternoon. I’ll be able to put it up on Monday.
 

With our 9 year old Berner 

Thanks Neil. The next one will hopefully be done by the end of next week. I'm picking up a puppy tomorrow, so that and work will take a bit of time.

The next video(s) is/are half complete, and when finished, will show how to create a lamp shed or lineside shed. Wooden upper, with a few courses of bricks as a foundation. It'll show how to create:

• gable ends
• corners in brick and wood
• doorways and window holes

cheers

Jason

Hi there, if nothing else has changed, has the temperature of the resin changed? I know on the Anycubic Photon X, a drop in temperature can cause splitting like that on your horses.

Morning,

I've been doing some 4mm test prints and it all seems to have worked out well. I've a busy week, but I can upload the stl files next weekend - here if I can, but if I can't I'll put them on Thingiverse and then link to them. There will be 5 parts:

• body
• chassis
• pony trucks x 2
• fan

cheers

Jason

Blender is quite the package to get started in, but if you take it step by step, like any other complex package, then it's definitely manageable. It's also free and there are third party add-ons that can make life easier. There hasn't been anything I couldn't do within Blender, but I do know that some actions are easier in other software, an example of this is the flange at the bottom of a dome or chimney. Definitely doable in Blender, but there isn't a quick solution for this like there is in other packages.

It's probably best to trial a couple of different packages and see which one works best for you. For example, people say Sketchup is a lot easier then Blender, but I've never could get the hang of it.

It's been a while since I've done this sort of thing, are you finding them 'followable'?

And the next one - tidying up the end of the wall. In this video I'm assuming that the wall isn't going around a corner - it might be a garden wall for example. In the next video, I'll cover corners.

It's quite late, so finger's crossed it came out ok!

The final brick walling type for now. A run through of the English garden bond. We are using the same tools that we used in the previous video, so I'm going to go through this more quickly.

Next video will be tidying up the edges.

One more thing, we’ve also shown that the artifacts also depend on the slicer. My two ball prints had the same (available) print settings, but achieved slightly different results.

Absolutely. And I’ve just noticed, the column holding up the ball on the right is also a lot smoother as you’d expect

There is always going to be a trade off between speed and quality, and where that point is, depends on personal tastes and circumstances. It was an interesting exercise to do, but given the size of the pixels, at some point you get to a hard barrier.

Although science and engineering has created these machines, using them is definitely an art.

Here's the ball sliced in Photon Workshop. 

Interestingly, I don't see the those other circles on the side of the ball on the Photon Workshop print. Other than that they look very similar. In my Photon Workshop, I don't get the Antialias V2 option, so I just set it to 4. In real life, I don't see  the lines except under particular lighting conditions, and the ball just looks a little matt.

And to remind you, here's the one done in Lychee.

Hi Alan,

This is the document that I'm using for my different wall bonds https://www.gobrick.com/docs/default-source/read-research-documents/technicalnotes/30-bonds-and-patterns-in-brickwork.pdf?sfvrsn=0

Hi there

I printed the building in one go, roof and all. At either end at the top of the gables there are two small windows, so they let out the resin, and there doesn't seem to be a problem with suction. The only problem is the bottom of the building, but I think that's just a case of printing flat, or putting heavy supports in there.

For the interior, my plan is to cut some styrene to size for the floor, then use a cut down version of the lever frame https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3616864, and armchair https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:141703 on Thingiverse. I think I have an interior photo of the box, so I'll make the instrument shelf myself (pretty much a row of cubes). I'll knock up a quick desk as well.

Hi Mike,

Just popped over from the Mono X FB group, and a poster on there has said he gets the same lines we do when he uses Lychee, but not on Photon Workshop. I'll reslice in Workshop and I'll pop over to the frigid shed and reprint the ball.

Hi all

Work's got in the way, but I've finished and the signal box, and printed the main part of the building so far. This time, I printed it vertically, i.e. upside down, but with the supports underneath it. You'll see that a corner of the box curled up slightly, so I might do it straight on the plate like last time - either that or strengthen the supports in the corners. The downside there is I have to chip away at the support bases to get in, but I think that might be the better option, so I’m going to print it again and cut out the bottom with a Dremel. The photo above was taken after the clean, after I broke off the finial and before the tidy up.

I'm going to print the stairs separately so that I can properly paint the wall the stairs (almost) butt up to.

I've a quick question, does anyone have an idea how I can support the stairs if I print on on my resin printer? It looks like it's going to be interesting.

Anyway, here are the files - 4mm scale as last time.

• signal box 19.stl
• signal box 19 stairs.stl

cheers

Jason

In this video, I'm going to use arrays to create a modern brick wall. We've looked at arrays already, and this is a feature that allows us to create virtual copies of our objects, and if we change the object, all of the virtual copies change. The brick wall will use one brick, and our first array will create the first row of bricks, the second array will create the second row, and then the third array will allow us to create a wall as high as we would like.

Using arrays in different ways, we will be able to create a library of brick wall styles that we can use on walls of different sizes in different projects. I've already got the English bond done, so I'll put that up next, after that I'll show you how to tidy up the edges and add holes for windows and doors.

Finally, if you're having problems staying in Ortho view, and Blender keeps putting you in Perspective view, the first minute of the video shows you how to stop this happening.

Hi all, I've a Chitubox question.

I normally use Lychee, but I thought I'd give Chitubox a go as it has been getting some good comments.

I have two STL models (diesel and a building), and I made sure both were good by running them through 3D Builder.

In Chitubox, I placed the models on the plate and added supports

Then I exported the result to an STL file.

When I opened this file in 3D Builder it needed repairing again. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or is this a problem with Chitubox?

Hi Mike

It looks like our balls are very similar (as it were). This was printed using:

• layer height 0.05mm
• Antialias V2, level 4
• Sliced in Lychee Pro 3.2.1

I took the photo in a raking light, but in reality, at least to me, the lines are generally barely visible.

Depending on the weather tomorrow, I'll see if the layer lines show up under a coat of primer.

That's true, he doesn't. I've got one printing at the moment (last night's failed), so I'll let you know what V2 AA set to 4 looks like on my machine.

On 06/02/2021 at 08:58, MikeTrice said:

I have now finished printing samples using both Lychee and Photon Workshop all with anti-aliasing settings. As with the earlier examples there are no dicernable differences which leads me to conclude that firmware version 3.4.7 does NOT restore the missing anti-aliasing functionality despite assurances to the contrary.

Interesting Mike, the bloke in the video below went wild over it. I'm about to set off a print, so I'll give your stl a go on my printer and see how I get on. I'll be using the latest version of Lychee Pro, and I'm on 3.4.7. That said, I've done the supports of the other models on the plate in Chitubox to see how they might work for me. I'll do the full set of settings when I have a print.

On 03/02/2021 at 02:50, Erixtar1992 said:

I have an Elegoo Saturn for trying to print bodyshells 

 

im completely new to it though so have no idea what im doing ha.

 

Attempted to print this pre grouping coach from thingyverse and it semi worked out on the second attempt, but some minor warping has occurred.  
Been advised to angle it upwards more with even more supports.  Fingers crossed that will help.
Using elegoo ‘abs like’ grey resin

any tips welcome! 

Well I think that looks great!

As @woko said, you need to do something with the supports inside to shore up the roof, or make the walls slightly thicker. You have a lot of supports in there already, so perhaps some thicker ones in places? Or print the roof separately as has been suggested. That should stop the slight buckling on the side. Also we all like things to line up properly, and we tend to place the models on the build plate parallel to the build plate sides. @MikeTrice and I have found on the Anycubic Mono X that this causes those steps on the bottom part of the coach. If you rotate your model about 10 degrees on the Z-axis, it should help remove them, or at least, make them less noticeable.

Have a look at Mike's Anycubic thread in this part of the forum as he's put a few photos up to illustrate this.

Thanks @Pete22.

@DGO, I hold my hands up to not being an expert, but more of a bodger who has found a way to get what he needs out of the software. I'm always up for help and advice myself, and if you see me advising something that looks a bit screwy, please don't hesitate to let me know.  One question I have for the texture mapping is, does this produce an output that affects the mesh and can be 3D printed? Or is it more of a virtual thing?

In the meantime, today's tutorial - wooden wall coverings - vertical planks, board and baton, horizontal planks and sloped siding.

After that 22 minute long objects video, I'll keep the next few to around 10 minutes if I can

Part 4, and we're making some naked walls. I'm going to show two different methods for creating a room. One with 4 cubes, and the other with a single cube. I also introduce snapping, solidifying faces and object origin points.

If you're following along, why not see if you can make the body of a lighthouse? You'll need a cylinder, it'll be narrower at the top and the bottom (we did scaling in a previous window), and your lighthouse should be hollow, not a single solid block.

Here we go, a video about creating and messing around with objects in the viewport. How to create cubes, cylinders, spheres and such, and how to get them bent out of shape.

I've not opened up comments on YouTube as I thought it would be better to keep them all here.

Update: I realise now I forgot to upload the first video into the post above - doh! There should be three now.

Next one, walls - no, honest.

10 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

 

It'll change your life!

Yep, I got one for Christmas, it's so much better than doing it by hand. And a lot less messy as well. It works well combined with a draining bracket, which drains off most of the resin from the build plate before you then start processing it. I printed the bracket using the printer as it's very strong, and doesn't look like it's going to crack anytime soon.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627080