mikesndbs

Hi, wonder if anyone can help.

Just got this very much abused Belle and am in need of a starting position to get her back to.

Does anyone have a copy of the service manual?

The motor bogies seem very oddly suspended on an arm that only attaches via one screw, strange washers between bogies and coach body etc.

Any tips greatly appriciated. 

Always wanted one and am desperate to get her back to life.

3 hours ago, EddieB said:

As LMS 9664, NBL 21895 (ROD 1918) ended its working life at the end of 1930, which might explain its absence from BR lists.

Thanks, helps a lot.

I know it was one of many stored at Tattenham Corner around 1919?

Brilliant information thank you

I have spent lots of time looking for information about prototype locomotive ROD 2-8-0 number 1918.

Oddly locos 1918 and 1919 are missed off the North British Locomotive Company’s building list and I have been unable to find 1918 listed in any other database.

It does seem odd that in a long run of identical locomotives being built there just two were missed out of the sequence.

Is anyone able to shine some light on this, is it reasonable to assume NBL did build them?

Thanks

Mike

Hi guys

For an event I need to add the figure 'I' to the end of a locos name. I was wondering about using waterslide but putting something down to stop it permanently fixing.

Any suggestions please?

Hi guys

Just received my 73 126, one of the locos I actually worked on so I was well pleased to get it.

Couple of issues.

Motor is drawing around 300mA still to run in of course.

No manual supplied so I can check things and fit detail parts.

No buffing bar? EH? nope, is that a spare part to fit?

Light are good if only they could arrange a moving roller blind lol

13 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Morning Mike,

 

I've somehow ended up with ten of these in various liveries. I've not experienced the issues you've got, despite carrying out similar work to you. 

The main issue I had was one which was a little jerky. This was traced to the motor not being properly seated in it's mounting. A gentle squeeze to reseat and all was well. 

 

All the others, including the two RODs have run beautifully from day one. They are a bit of a benchmark for excellent running so to have one doing as you describe is unusual. 

 

Mindful all was relatively well, prior to dismantling, have you checked that when you reassembled the baseplate, brake gear etc, nothing was capable of fouling the spokes, causing the wheels to lock ? Pick up, sandpipe etc ? 

 

If not quartering, then this is the only other thing I can think of. 

 

With such a marked difference in running sadly, this is in all probability down to something relatively simple related to the disaasembly/reassembly. 

 

Rob. 

Thanks Rob

I've spent ages with it disassembling and reassembling under great magnification looking for the slightest tolerance difference.

Currently she runs well enough but if you go really slow, she will still lock or will limp, but not at a slightly higher speed??? Also fine in reverse.

Most odd.

I've written to Hattons technical just in case they might have some tips, I don't want to send it back as I've fitted a lot of details now. Thanks for your thoughts.

11 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Sounds as if you've possibly disturbed the quartering. 

 

Rob. 

Hi Rob, I'd agree with you but I honestly don't see how? The base plate was lifted off, pickups adjusted, lube added then reassembled.

I am suspicious of that sprung axel at the front however, maybe giving to much slack to the rods?

Seasons greetings everyone.

I was lucky enough to receive a Hattons P class in ROD livery.

I started its running in periods and it ran very smoothly however stalled on my points.

A quick inspection showed that 50% of the pickups were not in permanent contact with the backs of the wheels.

No big problem I thought, so I let it run in and today got ready to remove the base plate to get at the pickups and reshape.

First issues is some pillock had glued the brake gear in place so i had to firmly prise this off :(

Adjusted the pickups and lubed the bearings and gears.

Put her back together and she now runs like a three legged cow :(

Kind of lumps with the leading 'spring' wheels seeming to cause the rear drivers to twist and get coupling lock.

I've fettled and fiddled for ages and am now at my witts end.

Got so locked up once that the gears slid!

Any suggestions? 

Well, after one more look around I found the missing buffer on the carpet under the radiator in my office!

Must have been there two months or more and avoided a number of vacuums lol.

Was a to get back on as well.

Big lesson, there are just no spares which seem odd.

Gutted!

Was running my terrier and suddenly noticed she's lost a buffer off the front, how I did not notice it before I don't know but looking back over some video she'd lost it then.

Not listed as a spare part so what are my options?

Thanks and seasons greetings.

AHA! Drop link was twisted ever so slightly, reshaped it and now runs much better, still a small stiff spot but I think a bit of running will help.

Only disaster is I reversed the motor magnet lol

Hi all, many thanks for the thoughts and suggestions.

I've just started working on the loco again now.

Its rods and radius arm get stiff on one side near the top of the stroke.

I can't see why.

The first photo shows the affected side and I've shaded the stiff parts.

54 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Press out the bends and twists in the motion that are very evident in your photos taken from below.

 

CJI.

Hi again, so four of the bends are done to avoid the crank pins. Straightening them means the pins hit the vale rods.

I did tweak the drop link on one side which made things better, however there is still a really tight spot on the main rods one side only causing the engine to slow each revolution. 

Normally Wrenn stuff is great, but thjis old girl needs more help.

14 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

There's a bent / twisted RH connecting rod for a start, which won't help. Other bits of the motion would benefit from the application of smooth-jawed narrow pliers.

 

I can see plastic insulating bushes in the insulated side wheels - as there should be on a two-rail loco.

 

CJI.

Thanks, what would you do with the pliers? 

Hi Guys

I am just restoring this loco and have come across some weirdness I need advice on place.

Done the motor and she now runs ok but the chassis has tight spots and I note on one side the coupling rods are very tight.

Also see some odd bushes behind the rods on the crank pins on one side, don't think I have ever noticed that before.

Here's some photos.

Be most grateful for any assistance.

Once it uploads about 15:50 here is a video of her 

Hi, my mate has a Rapido Sterling single to sell after his dad passed away.

Are they really worth the big prices I am seeing?

Hattons Genesis Coaches snagging video

Not much to say

Hi guys, so finally after the long wait, my first batches should be on my way to me.

I've got the flat roof SR ones coming as well, did I read somewhere they were in use on the IOW?

Well I don't care what anyone says I'm loving mine.

Yes had to adjust the pickups but that's basic maintenance anyway, nothings fallen off, don't need a new motor and it looks and runs great.

Enjoying the model.

13 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Its always best described in their own words…

 

 

 

Is this a joke of some kind? I don't get it the title comes direct from the video which is correct?

9 hours ago, scumcat said:

I was given the lswr version for Christmas 2019 it has never run well thr motor doesn’t need any excuse not to be able to turn the wheels. I thought it was a motor problem as it has zero torque but now you have got me thinking.

 like this?

1 hour ago, HExpressD said:

Fair enough. You have your experiences and I have my much less involved ones so I'll take you word for it, as you say, maybe I'm getting too crusty and old. Low hanging fruit perhaps, but I'll watch my manors next time ;) 

LOL I see what you did there hahahah