mikesndbs

2 hours ago, HExpressD said:

There could be a fault, and DCC can smooth out some issues but I remember he used to take his locos apart before running them and then would complain of issues. Now he says that he runs them in before taking them apart but hasn't changed the order of the video so I'd imagine he hasn't actually changed this and there could be some duff performance of his own making!

I suspect that Sam's Manor like most of them needs the tender pickups easing which are too stiff and cause the tender wheels to act like the brake is on. It's an easy fix, not a fault and easy fix that people who buy models of this complexity should easily be able to manage.

Your comment about how Sam makes his videos is most unfair. This young talented modeler has set the standard for new model reviews, he has a structured method that he sticks to and he is honest in this as credibility and accountability is everything on YouTube. I have had the pleasure of working with him on a number of projects over the years and he has been 100% trustworthy and honest and extremely giving to the community, may I respectfully suggest that some of that generosity of spirit be afforded to this young man who has shown that you don't need to be a crusty old bloke like me to enjoy and contribute to this hobby. 

8 hours ago, Forester said:

 

 

A challenge.

Find a photo of any currently preserved BR green loco which colour matches your pictures of the Dapol Manor.

Kind Regards.

OK, here's one for you, find a model with scale real life people, water, oil, coal and steam? lol

Fixing the drag on the Manor class tender wheels. (1) Referring to the manual turn tender upside down and remove the four screws, one in each corner. (2) Remove the three further screws from the weight and speaker mount as shown, also assist the wire out through the hole. (3) You can now see the pickups, a great idea they rub on the tops of the flanges so should not get dirty, gently flex the pickups up and away from the flanges until they are just touching. Reassemble, (don't forget the wire) make sure to lube the axles.

Hi, I've seen a lot of negative comments and wanted to make sure my video is not misleading anyone.

1) Tender wheels, yes they are stiff due to the pickups, however these are super easy to resolve by pushing them up into the body which reduces the pressure they cause. 

2) Middle tender wheels, they do indeed touch the rails! they may be set very slightly up which is a good thing but they touch the rails and spin once the above has been done.

3) chipped paint fireman's side. It's certainly delicate and likely caused by me when handling, a small bit of black paint sorts this out.

4) Cab handrails bent, yeah they were but they are super flexible and just need shaping, no doubt they are made flexible so they don't break.

5) Colour. Looks good to me so I am sharing photos taken in sunlight with the cameras white balance set for sunlight

6) Running qualities, now super smooth and very controllable after a basic running in at 40%

A first look at the all new Dapol Manor 7800 class locomotive. This loco holds a very emotional story for me so I had to pre-order her some time back. She’s here now so in this video we do a ‘sort’ of unboxing and have a look at what Dapol have done. A clue for you! It’s brilliant.   Happy to say that running in has greatly smoothed her down. Sand pipe fitted but its a fath lol, Yeah the tender wheels pickups are too stiff, easily sorted using a scalpel, fine screwdriver etc to push the pickup strips off the wheels into the body a little, result much easier running while maintaining pickup. The paint on the running plate is susceptible to chipping.

10 hours ago, drt7uk said:

Hi folks - the motor on my Stepney has stopped working. Specifically it keeps shorting in one direction (I've removed it entirely from the rest of the locomotive so it's definitely the motor at fault.).

 

Has anyone else had this problem? 

 

Fortunately there's a replacement motor on eBay for £10.

 

But pretty poor! I bought this new and have looked after it well since I got it, haven't had it running continuously for hours on end...so not sure why it's suddenly failed me.

 

Any advice gratefully received, David

Hi David, sorry to hear this, the motors are normally good, but I had to replace one of mine a while back.

As has been said before please look up Lendons as they charge a fair price for spares and are not into profiteering!

I made this video looking at the insides of the motor which might be of interest?

This may be of interest 

14 hours ago, NoDominion said:

Delayed again due to COVID amongst the factory workers I believe. I thought we wouldn’t see it until summer! I hate being Right!

Ah blow :( thanks for letting me know

I've been away, is the Fell out yet or imminant?

22 minutes ago, kitpw said:

Eileen's Emporium gives internal and external diameters for the tube sizes which they stock - https://www.eileensemporium.com/materials-for-modellers.

 

That's great, so for my 1mm motor shaft going to 2mm I'd need this? Brass Round Tube 1.0mm x 0.5mm x 305mm (MT4)?

Hi all, hope everyone is well.

I have a project coming up and need to increase the size of some motor shafts to allow fitting into bigger gears and worms.

My dad always did this with brass tube but I am unsure of the best way forward.

I have motor shafts of 1mm needing increasing to 2 and 2.4mm (X04)

I also have some 1.5mm needing increasing to 2 and 2.4 as above.

Can anyone help me select the right metal tubes to do this please?

Hello everyone and nice to see the forum back.

My B12 has suffered a classic Hornby motor failuer and I am aware of a number of other people suffering the same thing.

The same issue I had with my S15.

I am currently running an informal poll on my channel to get an idea of how many have suffered the same or not.

Would you consider voting please?

https://www.youtube.com/c/ModelRailwaysUnlimited/community

There are number of videos on my channel looking at the issues I found and suggesting possible fixes based on my opinions and findings.

Always happy to hear more ideas.

I discovered that the motor bearings were super loose, so given the double flywheel maybe this was the cause of the failures?

Many thanks

4 minutes ago, Oldddudders said:

I think they come gratis w Hornby Bulleid pacifics, or Roxey do a nice etch. 

Oh good point, I'll go and check.

Regarding the lamps, I've now seen some photos so I guess they did carry them during the day?

Ah right thanks I did wonder.

You don't know of a source of white discs do you?

Cheers

Mike

Hi, got a lovely N15 in SR black and want to fit lamps to the front, are these appropriate for the era?

Thanks

FIXED!

A simple fix was found, given the rod does not move at all,

Simply turn the loco upside down.

Lift the rod away from the peg and apply a tiny bit of super glue to the underside of the rod, press down on the peg and leave for 10 mins.

All done and looking much better

Many thanks, ah it seems there is a bit missing from mine, no sign it was ever there.

Arrow shows below.

Hi

I have one of the lovely Crabs but notice the valve stems seem to droop and work at an odd angel.

There does not seem to be anything designed to retain them in the proper place.

See the photos for clarity. Top one shows correct alignment. 

What can be done please?

My feeling on this is that it was the early models that had very lose connecting rod hinges, such that there was a lot of slop, given this is the driving acxel I think this is the cause.

If you buy new rods X6941 the slop is not there, the rivet is there but it does not move.

New rods should then solve it hopefuly?

A well known fault, imprerrative to keep the pins lubricaited!

I understand spares are available.

19 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

If the OP is prepared to cancel and lose money because - during a global pandemic to which he, himself draws attention - the model is delayed by six months, I have to wonder how much he wanted the model in the first place!

 

How many of the world's displaced population would wish to have such matters as their primary concern?

 

CJI.

I don't think the OP said it was his primary concern, after all he asked about a model on a model forum, had he asked the same question on a world news forum then absolutely I'd be there with you.

This is an escape for most of us, from an utterly chaotic, selfish world. Anyway, my final comment. 

Sheesh, he only asked guys, lighten up! Enthusiasm does that to you, can't all be pragmatic so and so's lol

I think we might have more news around Easter time if all goes well.

Regarding deposits, unless the business can prove they won't be able to sell the item you reserved, then your deposit is refundable minus some fair costs, check out Citizens Advice for more.

Happy new year all

I had it in my head that the vans should be vertical planked, is that not the case?

Seasons greetings all.

2 hours ago, cessna152towser said:

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I had never given a thought to the compatibility of coreless motors with my HM2000 until I saw the recent reviews of the Caley 812, including a copy of its instruction sheet which drew attention to the fact it had a coreless motor which might not be compatible with some controllers, and once I began looking into it, I cancelled my Caley 812 after almost four years of eager anticipation.

Trawling through this thread, I believe that I have unwittingly already acquired one item with a coreless motor, namely the little Wickham Trolley by Bachmann.   I have only ever run it a few times and always on low power settings to represent prototypically slow speeds.  Now I am wondering if I should continue to run it occasionally.

Hey, good evening.

Well to be 100% sure of no motor damage then the HM2000 is not the right controller.

That said, it's not one of the worst.

When you run your WT does it buzz at all? if it does that's a sure sign of distress (in a coreless motor)

The problem with the HM2000 and many others is the use of pulse width modulation, where by the full DC voltage is applied for measured short bursts to the motor, this could be 12v coreless motors are super efficient and relatively delicate, they are also or should be dirt cheap.

I have done some work on PWM and coreless and even with the ability to change the duty cycle (10Khz) the only way to stop heating in a coreless motor was to reduce the input voltage to around 8 volts.

The HM2000 won't be able to do that.

Have a look at Gaugemaster or Morley controllers.