orford

Hi Anthony. 9 volts regulated DC, as advised personally by Richard Johnson of DCC Concepts. I even lashed out on the specific power packs which he personally recommended.

Love this layout. Can't see enough of it.

As per 'JZ' above, for weighting wagons, etc., I tend to use self-adhesive 5 and 10gm lead-free weights made for balancing car wheels. Have done for years, although I am in O Gauge. May be trickier to fit them to the likes of open wagons in OO because of the smaller size of the models. Can usefully be used to add weight to locos too. These are the ones. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-STRIP-LEAD-FREE-STICK-ON-WHEEL-BALANCE-WEIGHTS-MOTORBIKE-CAR-MOTORCYCLE-VAN-/221116096305

Running a Pendolino through points with a radius of 17.5" sounds like just asking for trouble to me. I no longer work in 'OO', having moved up to O Gauge - but when I did work in OO I would not have dreamt of having any point or curve of less than 30" radius if I could possibly avoid it. Even that is tight compared with the prototype. If you have the room, then I would personally get rid of the tight Hornby turnouts and go with something rather more generous. If you don't have the room, then maybe you should be looking at modelling an industrial scene or branch line rather than trying to run main line trains of the Pendolino type. I don't mean this to sound harsh or unhelpful but you really do ideally need to match your prototype to the space which you have available. Models are after all to a certain degree (although there is FAR more latitude in a model) subject to pretty much the same rules as the full sized thing......i.e., You would not get a full sized 'Eurostar' train around the average colliery railway system.

Hi all, I am wondering whether anyone else has the same persistent problems with Cobalt point motors? I have about 30 of them, all 'first generation' Cobalt motors purchased around 6-7 years ago not that long after they were introduced. All are operated using 'DC'. 12 were exchanged by DCC Concepts 5+ years ago not long after purchase under their 'lifetime warranty', due to various malfunctions - mostly noisy 'clicking' or running exceptionally slowly. A further 12 were subsequently sent back to Australia (this was in the days before they had a UK outlet in Skipton) for the same reasons, where they were apparently 'refurbished'. I am STILL getting the same problems on various motors, including on at least 2 of the 'refurbished' motors which DCC Concepts returned marked as 'good'. Here is what happens (you need the sound turned on)....... https://youtu.be/Q0govasK1kE The sheer cacophony when four or five Cobalts are simultaneously making this continual racket makes the layout frankly inoperable and I am forever having to change motors on the layout, involving scrambling on my back on the floor working above my head (it's a permanent layout - and I am 66 with heart problems) ...which is a nightmare. This is a problem which has been on-going now for 6 years on and off, regardless of having Cobalts exchanged, refurbished, or whatever. It is driving me absolutely insane. (For the record, the motors are operated on DC using the voltage and indeed, the regulated power pack actually recommended to me personally by Richard Johnson of DCC Concepts). I will be the first to acknowledge that when performing as intended, these Cobalt turnout motors are excellent - but why oh why do so many keep developing this horrendous 'clicking' issue? These motors are far from cheap - about 600 quid's worth in my case, I certainly cannot afford to replace them all....and this is a long-standing and on-going problem. Any help or advice would be most gratefully received. Thanks. Don Mason.

Having seen these in action I agree they work very well indeed. However, the need to traverse all of your track at least once does mean that on a large layout, all of the necessary running combined with all the attendant switching of points, reversing up sidings, etc, does mean that the track cleaning can take longer than the subsequent running session! They are also very heavy and you will need a good strong heavy diesel to tow them...many small OO gauge steam locos will not budge it. Finally (and this is personal to me) the O Gauge version which I would need, would set me back around 250 quid and require about half a dozen of my little industrial locos harnessed together to pull it. Which is why I will stick with a Garryflex block and Meths. But if you have the right sort of layout (particularly a 'tail-chaser') then yes I agree, these are pretty unbeatable.

Way back in the 1970's and 80's most of us swore by Carbon Tetrachloride, used in the dry-cleaning industry - but it was nasty stuff from just about every other point of view (not least, one's health) and eventually I believe, banned from general sale. But there's no denying that it was the best liquid track cleaner ever, before OR since. Nowadays I just use methylated spirit (the purple stuff). Works extremely well. I've used it as my main track cleaner for decades. Form any chemist or DIY store at a tiny fraction of the cost of so-called 'model railway track cleaning fluids' sold by the model trade. However - a word of warning: Do NOT smoke around it or expose it to any other kind of flame, spark, etc., as it is VERY flammable and also burns with an invisible flame. Regarding abrasive blocks - avoid like the plague the ones sold by Peco and similar. In my experience they have a tendency to score 'grooves' into the surface of the rails which quickly accumulate dirt. This then requires further cleaning and thus effectively self-perpetuates. On the other hand, the finest block (240 grit) in the 'Garyflex' range will do the job very well indeed and will not damage the surface of the rails in any way. I have been using these for many years and my tracks are still as good as new. Lasts for years as well.

I eventually chickened out and repainted the cab floor using a small brush VERY carefully through the cab openings either side. Installed a crew too using tweezers through the same side openings. Seems the cab is actually glued to the footplate.

Slightly off-piste: Does anyone know how easy or otherwise it is to get the cab off (and back onto) the O gauge Terrier? The walls I can live with but I simply HAVE to do something with a paint brush to that bright yellow cab floor.

I would echo JohnB's comment about putting a little powdered graphite on the axle ends/in the U channels. You can get it (known as 'Greas'em' from any Kadee stockist although by far the easiest option is to go to any locksmith where you can buy it labelled as 'lock lubricant' at a fraction of the price.

I've never really understood how anyone can bear to have un-built kits in their drawers. Whenever I buy ANY kit I am always absolutely itching to build it and can't wait to get stuck into it just as soon as I get it home, or as soon as it arrives at the door. Always have been like this. And if I buy say, three or four at once I will have them all on the go simultaneously and jump from one to the other as I go......usually (and usefully) whilst waiting for glue to set or paint to dry on one of them. In answer to the original question I can absolutely honestly say that I doubt whether I have ever had an un-built kit in my possession for more than half an hour. - Don

Nope - They're box shifters. Not interested in checking stuff. Besides - they only had two in stock and they are the two I sent back.

Hello All, I have a different problem with the Terrier - but as this also relates to a factory sound-fitted loco, actually in the GWR 'Portishead' livery - and being a bit at my wits end I wonder whether anyone else has a similar experience, or whether anyone here can offer help? My lovely wife bought me this model for Christmas - what a great present...or so we both thought a few weeks ago It came from a well-known discount retailer in the north west but on Christmas day I was extremely disappointed to find that it would not run over anything other than perfect, straight, level plain track. At every turnout, curve, or anything less than perfect track it just instantly stopped dead. Investigation (and I have been modelling in all scales for 47 years, so have a little experience), revealed that the centre 'compensated' or 'floating' wheel set worked perfectly on the left hand (facing) side of the loco, being free to move up and down slightly as intended...and sat perfectly on the track. However on the right hand side, the centre wheel appeared to be 'jammed' in the 'down' or 'low' position. Being thus lower than the front and rear wheels on this side, this meant that it was impossible for all wheels on this side of the loco to sit properly on the track. I also caused the loco to 'rock' to a significant degree when on the rails. The extent of this was that if you pressed lightly on the rear corner of the loco, the front wheel on the opposite side lifted a full 1.5 - 2.0mm off the track......hence the running problems. Anyway, I reported this to the retailer who to their credit, replaced the model without question and the replacement arrived just after New Year. This was exciting for all of two minutes, when I found that the replacement loco had exactly the same problem - except worse. In addition, the replacement also had a noticeable bind in the mechanism, two of the four body-to-chassis fixing screws were hanging out and one of the four screws was completely missing. There was also a loose buffer in the box, although that in itself is not too much of a problem. In addition, both locos had bits of paint missing from the wheels generally. Nothing huge but enough to be annoying. Again however, to their credit, the retailer took the replacement loco back, this time for full credit. I NEED a Dapol Terrier in this livery for a specific purpose on my layout but after this experience I really worried about re-ordering. My wife is also pretty distraught, having forked out £340+ for a Christmas present for me which was frankly, useless. My layout is of the 'shunting' type, so one thing I do need is reliable running - at slow speeds. I thought the Terrier would fulfil this requirement. I (and my wife) am thinking seriously of now ordering a sound-fitted Terrier in GWR 'Portishead' livery direct from Dapol (where the list price is a full £70.00 more than she paid originally) but to be perfectly honest I am now more than a bit scared to do so, in case the same thing or something similar happens for a third time. ie - Are they all like this? Is it a fault with the batch, or all in this particular livery? .........you see where I'm coming from. The cost is a significant one to us and maybe I'm just not thinking straight. But in view of this experience I am extremely nervous about getting another. I thought that this was a nice loco and absolutely perfect for the layout. What really worries me is that both locos had exactly the same - unusual - fault......which either suggests they may all have similar problems, or means that I have been particularly unlucky. Whilst I can accept any one loco might have a problem, I do begin to worry when the replacement has exactly the same fault. I suppose what I am looking for here is reassurance from anyone who has a factory sound fitted Terrier that there are actually good ones out there. Or any other advice regarding this model? Any comments, particularly from those with similar Terries, would be very much appreciated.

".......Does anyone have any tips for keeping things upright?" Viagra? (Sorry - just couldn't resist). Seriously though - I would echo Dunsignalling's reply. The method described has always worked for me.

Removed by original author. Problem solved.

Brush-painting wheels is a right old hassle in my experience. I find it far easier to simply waft a 'weathering' paint solution (brown/dark grey/rust - always enamels) over the entire chassis and wheels using the airbrush and nowadays I do this automatically with ALL rolling stock, including locos. Only takes a few minutes. Job done. Something like this. Apply the 'dirt' first and then 'rust' to taste over the top once the dirt has dried. You can obviously vary the density of both, depending on how old/used you want your locos/stock to look.

I've had the wheels out...in...back out and back in again earlier today on wagons made by Dapol (2), Parkside and Slaters (2 - both ex-Coopercraft) whilst spray painting the wagons concerned and have to say I had no problems with any of them. It's just a case of taking extreme care when springing out the axle boxes....and gently ease one side/wheel out at a time, DON'T try to spring the axle guards so far out as to get the entire wheelset out in one go. However, a word of warning: In my experience the plastic used by both some O gauge wagon manufacturers (and Slaters in particular) tends to become extremely 'brittle' with age and I would only really be confident in doing this with new(ish) kits or wagons. (As a complete aside from this, the best O gauge wagon wheels I have yet encountered are those supplied by Minerva on their new GWR Iron Mink. FAR better than Slaters in my own opinion. Sadly however. so far as I know, not yet available on their own).

Paul - Fair comments.... Have messaged you direct.

Eight x £43.00 each, plus postage = £350.

Sorry Paul - but I must beg to differ. You talk about a millimetre out of gauge as though it is of no consequence. But if that millimetre causes the wheels to drop between the rails and down into the four foot every time a loco or wagon runs through the turnout (and they are all the same), then quite simply the product is not fit for purpose, as it is incapable of doing the job for which it is intended........without user modification. Yes - I am perfectly capable of bending the rail into gauge...and no doubt will have to, in order to rectify the situation. But the point is - I shouldn't have to do so at that price. At £43.00 each, the points are hardly cheap Eight turnouts @ £43.00 plus postage cost me £350.00 - a very sizeable chunk of the budget for the entire layout. And by any reasonable argument this problem is totally unacceptable. I'm sorry - but it is. I have used Peco points exclusively for over 40 years in 'N' Gauge, '009', 'OO', 'OO fine', O-16.5', 'O' (regular) and 'G'.....and I am simply making the point (sorry - pun not intended) that in my opinion these are simply way below their usual excellent standard.

I purchased 8 of these 'setrack' points for my new 'industrial' layout, which being thus, has tight curves........at a total cost of almost £350.00. As already noted above, the frog wires fell off two of them and the spring was missing from one. I then found that the curved stock rail popped out on a third. I have now found that ALL are almost a full millimetre wide on gauge between the fifth and seventh sleepers at the 'heel' end - there is no doubt that it is this which is causing the derailments with certain locomotives referred to by others in this thread. I am having the same problem with several locos and even some roiling stock. And worse of all, I have now discovered that there are two distinctly different moulded tie bar lengths being used by Peco (two different manufacturers??). See photographs below. This has the effect of altering the difference between the blades and consequently the 'throw'. On the wider tie bar, the throw is barely sufficient to get some wheel sets through the point at all. Hattons to their credit offered to replace but this would be a waste of time, since any replacements will presumably be exactly the same. As I certainly cannot afford to waste nearly £350, I have taken the decision to rebuild the points at the tie-bar end using copper-clad sleepers to hold the gauge correctly. I will also replace the tie-bars with my own make. But coming from a Company long famed for the quality of it's track, this is really not good enough, given the price being charged. The first two pictures show the different length tie-bars. The second two pictures show the effect on the 'throw' of the different length tie-bars. The last two photographs show the over-'gauge' between sleepers five and seven ...the cause of the derailments mentioned earlier, compared with the 'correct' gauge a couple of sleepers further along. COMMENTS PLEASE, PECO ???

Thank you Phil Sandy. Just what I needed to know. - Don M

Sorry guys - all coaches and all wagons have been sold to a single overseas buyer who bought the lot. There will however be some locos and buildings, etc offered in due course and I will post links when I eventually get around to listing them.

I am using Bachmann HO Gauge mini-tension-locks with a steel pin soldered to the dropper arm to magnetically uncouple my O Gauge wagons - and very successful it is to. However, I need to order more Bachmann couplers and I need the one with BRASS (ie non-ferrous) dropper arms. Some of theirs (like almost every other make) use steel dropper arms, which are absolutely no good at all for this use. My question is - can anyone tell me the Bachmann reference numbers for the mini tension locks with brass dropper arms (either the 'short' version or preferably the 'long version'?) The NEM pocket types are perfectly OK, as that is what I have used to date. Don't need the actual pockets though. I just don't want to order several packs at nearly a tenner per pack only to find I have bought useless 'steel' ones - and as none of my local model shops stocks them I cannot just pop down there with a magnet in hand to check them. Can anyone please give the Bachmann product numbers for the versions with the brass dropper arms? I know that they do them....but which are they? Thanks, in anticipation someone might be able to help.

Some of those who may have seen my 'OO' Scale BR transition-period (ex GER/LNER) layout 'Orford' and 'Wickham Market' either here, in Railway modeller (it was 'Railway of the Month, September and October 2016), or elsewhere, may be interested to know that ALL of the assets of the layout will be going onto eBay for sale within the next few weeks. This includes coaching stock, freight stock, locomotives, buildings and anything else found to be salvageable. Anyone interested in acquiring any of the items, keep an eye on eBay starting in about 2 weeks time, or contact me (initially by PM) within the next week or two if you are interested in buying any items privately and I can send pictures via email. Please note that once the items go onto eBay, NO further private enquiries will then be entertained for them All rolling stock is in good condition, all is professionally weathered and all is fitted with Kadee couplings, some of which (but not all) can be removed and replaced with other types (NEM pockets). Much of it can be seen in the 'RM' articles. (to save anyone asking - After almost 6 years of Orford/Wickham Market, I am just moving on to something different (which this time will be in 'O' Scale). - Don Mason