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jazz

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Posts posted by jazz

  1. Another slow build. Time it's because my other half on Friday was rushed into Bangor Hospital due to her gallbladder blockage.  Looks like she may have to have it removed when they get the track blockage cleared. Anyway she's being looked after well and the ambulance arrived quickly too.

     

    Anyway it's onwards with the J35.   Took some time to get it all squared up for soldering together.  I think that's maybe the worst over with on it.

     

    majesticbodyunderway1.JPG.f363675d96c63a15c3ca77a9ad72037a.JPG

    • Like 3
    • Friendly/supportive 5
  2. 6 hours ago, Irish Padre said:

    Just staggered by your speed of construction! Amazing work. Takes me weeks of  agonising just to lift the soldering iron …

    Thanks for that comment.  I just spend most of my time building these kits.  I's something that I really enjoy doing. ( Currently I've exceeded the 500 I've built.)  My good lady enjoys railways as much as I do most of our holidays entail a railway involvement.  

    • Like 3
    • Friendly/supportive 2
  3. Kevin, I Do not have an answer for that one.  Geoff give kits to build that have motors etc in the box. That's why a lot of kits I'm building are getting a bit long in the tooth.

     

    Onwards with the Sanspareil K&ESR tank loco.  I've no finished my part of the build all except for the safety valves that are missing from the kit.  Those will have to be scored by Geoff'.

     

    Here it is for now.

     

    sanpareil0-4-0finished.JPG.5fd33b8456e7903fb4a3e0d31f39a16c.JPG  

    • Like 9
    • Round of applause 1
  4. 7 hours ago, bluestag said:

    Ken,

     

    What size motor is that?   I'm starting a build on a LNWR Precedent from an OLD Modeller's World kit.   I started with an 1833 Mashima on the front of the forward driven axle, but it is taking too much room in the firebox.  It is just a mm or two too long to stand upright, leaving the firebox clear for lead.   I'm going to try a 1524, not as powerful but leaving me all sorts of room for weight.   The Precedent, despite being wildly successful, was in fact a fairly small loco.

     

    Kevin

    Hi Kevin.  This is a Mashima 1824.    I had to cut the shaft right down.

  5. Here we have another old kit from Sanspereil.   It comes to me without any instructions just a photo and a line drawing.  There is lots of etchings that I have no idea were quite  a few of them I've no idea were they are meant to go.

     

    I've done the chassis with a few parts left over.  The motion brackets are missing. I will wait now until the body is built and see how visible they would be before cobbling a pair of them. The driving wheels are on a cradle to allow them the rock

     

    This is it so far.

     

    Tenterdonchassis1.JPG.3cdb268764504212e0d5155291fafbf5.JPG

    • Like 10
  6. A change to the planned next build.  Geoff has a change of heart and asked me to build the Underhill Midland/LMS class 3 0-6-0 tender loco (Another kit from way back)

     

    Brings back memories from the typical Underhill kits.

     

    Here is the tender I stared on Sunday and now onwards with the loco.

     

    underhillclass3tendera.JPG.31d4394929da5d996a9bb0d6ae00e340.JPG

    • Like 14
  7. The 2-6-4 Stanier is now completed ready for Geoff.  A bit of head scratching to get if finished. I've just been asked to build a College Models Stanier 2-6-2T with no instructions. So that will arrive early next week putting all the other builds back a while. Hopefully this 2-6-4T will help in that build.

     

    stanier2-6-4nowfininshed.JPG.40f2783a739a03a74f9f0cdc828eb6cf.JPG

     

    • Like 12
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  8. 57 minutes ago, Marshall5 said:

    Congrats on finishing your 2-6-4T it looks well.  One doesn't see many Stanier 'Big tanks' being modelled nor, indeed, many Chowbent kits at all.  When I built mine some 20 yrs ago the biggest obstacle that I had to overcome was that, if built to the instructions, the cylinders were set at too steep an angle so rather than relying on the slots in the frames to locate them I built the whole cylinder/valve gear assembly on a separate plate.  I also seem to remember that if the slidebars were mounted as designed they were too far apart for the supplied crosshead.  Other than that any errors were probably of my own making.  IIRC The kit was designed with the cab steps to be attached to the chassis but I decided to fit them to the body - it was only when I came to fit the injectors behind the cab steps that I found out why!  If I was doing it again I'd probably do it sprung or compensated due to the long coupled wheelbase. You obviously found your own way around these odd 'niggles' in an otherwise enjoyable build.  Apologies for not posting sooner but I've only just noticed your thread.

    Cheers,

    Ray.

    p.s. When I built mine Slaters didn't do 5' 9" dia. V-rim wheels so I had to use incorrect 'flat' rim ones - must get round to changing them one day.

    Stanier 2-6-4t from Chowbent kit.jpg

    looks very nice job.

  9. 12 hours ago, doilum said:

    There is always the Triang solution. This also gives you the excuse to drill out the whitemetal chimney and fit a proper blast pipe...

    The cast chimney is cast with a proper hole that sits over the hole in the smokebox. It would take a mighty long bolt to reach the nut. Not very good at all.  I do have two or three methods that will work with a bit of out of sight scratch building.

    • Like 1
  10. had friends round yesterday and they wanted to go up the Great Orme.  Got the bus to the top and decided to walk back down. Oh boy  did it rain. Absolutely soaked right through. still we had fun and a very nice (wet) meal in a restaurant at the bottom.🤪

     

    Anyway, done a bit more on the 2-6-4 today.   I will have to work out the best way to fasten the body to the front of the chassis. Seems the designer overlooked that important issue.

     

    stanier2-6-4body2.JPG.fa762493371387024a6bd7ee5967c9d1.JPG

    • Like 8
  11. Hi Jon.  interesting comment.  I was not impressed with this particular kit.  Being used to having half etches to assist correctly aligning the etchings.  Plus complicated instructions trying to work out which way up and round some of them go.

     

    The order of assembly is totally opposite to my assembly order.

     

    However I've sorted that all out now.  The chassis was OK though.

     

    by the way, Chowbent took over my Kenscale Kits from way back.  (They went together very well)

     

     

    • Like 2
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