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jazz

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Posts posted by jazz

  1. Hi Paul.  I have never had any problems David Andrews kits they go together very well.

     

    I have very little experience of the DJB offerings. Personally I'm not a fan of the pewter castings.  They do go together OK though.

     

    PS.  I got confused between DJB and DJH kits.  The DJB kits are just fine kits to build.

  2. I have slowed right down with the builds until I meet Geoff for the next batch. This will be after Guldex.  This one is A DMR Products J17. A first for me of this brand. I do like the fact that all bends and rolling is pre done.  Some off the etched holes are way too large which does let the kit down.   I have done the tender and awaiting the loco to be completed before sorting out the drawer bar assembly. (It does need a little touch up on the beading the photo shows up.)

     

    holdentender2.JPG.2c34d6b7afe26e936f2193a0294ab8d0.JPG

     

     

    • Like 9
  3. 41 minutes ago, S.D.L. said:

    Do you keep notes of the issues / errors on the kits you build for future reference or just go back to this blog and photos?

    I do not keep notes of issues encountered.  I do remember issues I came across in the builds and tend to use the remedies in the builds of other kits.  I do not use the order of construction as found in build instructions and mostly just use the diagrams in the instruction sheets.

    • Like 1
  4. It's been a while since I posted any progress on the WB.  A two week holiday and a new kitchen has taken up my time.  During the kitchen installation and repainting the walls and ceiling after the electricians replaced the original ceiling light with LED spotlights I did manage a bit if time on the WB to complete the Gladiator Jubilee class.  Here is a photo with it ready to paint today.

     

    (Now looking forward to the visit to Guildex.)

     

    jubileereadytopaint.JPG.8a11ab58f4709223ecec29f09bc5ec0c.JPG

     

    • Like 12
  5. 2 hours ago, Paul Williams said:

    Hello Jazz

    I wondered if you could help me I already have a set of 10 inch GW rolling bars although he does not produce longer ones as far as I know could you advise me where I may be able to purchase some longer ones ideally 17 inch rollers.

     

    Regards,

     

    Paul.

    Hi Paul.  I also only use the GW 10" rollers.  I have asked a couple of my colleagues and they have no idea where you can get bigger ones.  Theirs are very old ones now.

  6. The kitchen is now installed and all back to normal after finding new places for everything.  My tiler is coming on Tuesday to install the tile and grouting on Wednesday.

     

    We are delighted with it, everything is perfect and would certainly have them again should we ever move house. (That's unlikey we will move though)

     

    Anyway, I have just completed the Jubilee chassis. (It was all an odd half here and there whilst the installers were here.)   The chassis was, as ever with Gladiator, no problems in assembly.

     

    jubileenewzealandchassis2.JPG.f33cd2f1e4d1a9a36539ece166198ba6.JPG

     

    • Like 7
  7. On 09/07/2023 at 20:53, jwealleans said:

    Paint applied today in between other jobs.   The body has had an all over coat of Halfords filler primer, inside and out, and then white along the sides.

     

    BB-D7-body-primed.jpg

     

    The inside coat is for the colour - it makes a good undercoat for the 62/186 I'll use there.   The white is a good base for both the cream and crimson as they're both fairly transparent colours.   It also makes any major blemishes obvious so I can try to do something about them before I start the topcoat application.

     

    BB-D7-underframe-painted.jpg

     

    Floor and bogies now black.   One fairly new change to my carriages is putting paper under the floor above the wheels so they won't short if they both touch the floor.   This is a result of running on Dave Scott's DCC layout where the odd short is tolerated far less kindly than on most of the layouts I frequent.   Although not many of my friends have adopted the Devil's Electrickery (and Wickham Market is very firmly DC), the possibility of visiting other DCC layouts remains.   It doesn't do any harm to a DC layout to eliminate them either, of course.  I had some black paper which was bought for corridor connectors but was too thick, so small pieces of that are attached with PVA.

    Nice work.  The white primer is the same reason I always send my models to Geoff in grey primer. It quickly shows minor faults that would spoil the finish.

    • Thanks 1
  8. 59 minutes ago, micklner said:

    You hopefully have been lucky.

     

    My son has a Wren kitchen very poor quality e.g worktops different shades, etc etc. It was fitted by their fitters who were clueless.

    That's one reason I'm not using their installers.  These guys I'm using refuse to accept faulty parts. I have seen their work and had even the slightest fault change immediately.

    • Like 3
  9. apologies Jeff.  We have spent a week in Newcastle and surrounding places of interest.  Pleased David answered your query about the smoke deflectors.

     

    Now it's onwards with another Jubilee class again a Gladiator kit.  That will be a bit slow as the Wren kitchen arrives on Thursday then installation a few days later.

    • Thanks 1
  10. The Rebuilt Royal Scott is now finished. The usual Gladiator kit that goes together very well.

     

    Now for a week away from the WB.  We are preparing the kitchen for the new one.  Amazing how much you have in a kitchen until you come to move everything out.

     

    Anyway here is the Scott.

     

    royalscottfinished.JPG.087b87de5eee3f88ac2f1d8a622cb039.JPG

    • Like 14
    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  11. Thanks Steve.  The Black 5 looks very nice. Regarding painting the chassis on my builds (I only prime the models and then just paint the chassis black for Geoff. He has his own painter for the bodies)

     

    I do completely paint all models for my own collection though.

     

    Back to the chassis. I always spray paint them. The wheels are removed first and the are also spray painted.   The valve gear is masked with tape and masking paint.  They also are removed where possible complete with the cylinders.  When reassembled all the remaining valve gear is added and then out comes the paint brushes to touch in where needed.

     

    The Scott chassis is how far I get before cleaning and painting of it starts.  Hope this all helps.

     

    Now for the Scott loco.   I got the s/box, boiler and firebox assembled. Now for all the detailing.

     

    scottlocobody2.JPG.221b20a56da80af61bace2ed87d3938e.JPG

    • Like 5
    • Informative/Useful 1
  12. At last got the PC sorted out and now working correctly again. So now onwards with a Gladiator Royal Scott class. As usual starting with the tender.  Sorting out the buffers tomorrow and starting on the loco itself.

     

    I decided not to load the various stages as I have done so many it's all in builds of this class of tender.

     

    lmsscotclasstender1.JPG.a230e97cbb38e229fa3c54f09f1626c2.JPG

    • Like 2
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
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