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One time or another model trains derail. Some more frequently than others and from the content of this topic the Hornby 800 is the worst thing to hit the shops since god knows when. As modellers we should know there are many reasons for derailments and the most common one in my experience is poorly laid track. There was a time, and I remember it well when the wheels on model trains were fit for tractors and would ride over anything. Modellers didn't like this and wanted more realism and now they have the realism and wont accept that their track laying is rubbish causing the fine build they insist on to derail. I think Hornby are within their rights to tell us all to get stuffed and sort our track work first before getting all righteous and insisting on our retail rights. I have one of these models and it runs perfectly on my layout. The other day I run it on a friends layout built using set track and it derailed on one set of points having successfully run through 2nd and 3rd radius track. My friend also has a Class 800 and it derails at the same points on his layout. His 800 negotiates my layout without any problem. He now intends to sort out his track work. Mike

The 66 and 67 diesels are the same, the alternators and traction motors are the same family with variations. I would hazard a guess and say they are almost the same but not quite. I have recordings of both classes running light and the 67 is the quietest but I would fit the Hornby 66 decoder in the 67. Mike

Do you have a friend with a soldering iron?.

Hello ray, Interesting and knowledgeable comments but they don't change the fact that I'm still looking at my Overton Grange and it is still without the vacuum pump spindle, the state it was in when I bought it. Maybe I have the exceptional model as the body sits square on the chassis even though it has sound chip installed in the loco. I have the speaker wires running from the loco under the cab to the tender without them interfering with the alignment. Mike

Hello Andy, Just to be clear, I am looking at my Hornby "Overton Grange" and it is not fitted with the vacuum pump spindle. There is a "slot" on the crosshead extension bar to fit one but for now I will give it a miss. Can't see it when the loco is in motion. Mike

Bump!! I have finally completed the mods to Pitchford Hall, but I still need to weather it. A couple of photos of the finished item attached. Mike

Hornby Overton Grange (6879) and Paviland Grange (6845) do not have the vacuum pump spindle fitted to the crosshead extension but the cylinder is fitted tucked away behind the running plate piping but it is out of line with the crosshead. To my eyes the spindle if fitted would not be visible when in motion. Pitchford Hall (4953) however does have the vacuum pump assembly fully functional and is clearly visible.

Thanks for that Chris, so the driving car(s) traction motors are supplied with power from the diesel engines in the centre cars via batteries or is the power generated direct to the traction motors from the alternators. If this is the case how is the phase balancing achieved. Mike

Hello Keith, I'm not being critical of the "negative comments" made by the various owners advising of derailments. Its good to know what the potential problems might be with newly released kit. A friend of mine returned his set of coaches to Hornby due to derailing, whatever Hornby did the set now runs fine. In my experience my derailments are usually caused by problems with track or wrongly set back to backs of the wheel sets. And I do agree it is a cracking model. Mike

I collected my Class 800 from my local model shop on Monday morning. Now imagine my trepidation regarding the running performance having been reading all the negativity comments on this topic, expecting the model to fall off the rails at every curve and point. But no it did not. The model did however show up a protruding point motor pin causing the power car to derail at this point with the battery box (I think it is, the silver bit) catching on the protruding pin. Quickly cutting off the guilty protrusion the train ran perfectly at all speeds. The coach lights were very dim running on analogue as I expected. I fitted a Lenz gold decoder in each of the driving cars and test run the model. It runs perfect on DCC (and DC) at all speeds and looks very impressive whipping around the layout. The coach lighting is now just right with 14 volts on the track. BTW my smallest radius is 22". Those chaps experiencing derailing problems, check your track and ensure it is level. I have noted on a couple of videos wobbles at certain places on the filmed roundy roundy. Now for sound. I will need to custom make a speaker to fit the allocated spot. But the actual dilemma is the sound itself. The driving cars are electric motors and the two coaches (with the battery box I think) have the MTU engines and power packs under the floor. To operate both modes a switch-able decoder is required indicating a Zimo decoder that allows switching between sound sets. Next problem, where do I get the sounds from. Mike

I would be interested to hear what your alternative to the two world wars would be. For one this forum would probably not exist for you to express your views. Mike (Probably one who needs mental help.)

Regarding fitting the speaker you will find plenty of help on www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/85122-Bachmann-class-37-dcc-sound/ I believe the Hornby TTS decoder has an 8 ohm impedance The beauty of fitting the speaker as discussed, if you don't like the TTS sound you can fit an ESU or Zimo decoder for the ultimate sounds. HTH Mike

Anyone on the forum have experience of using the Keen buckeye coupling to replace the 2 pin couplers supplied with the kit. Thanks in advance. Mike

I would have liked the SLW 25 particularly if it has/had the detail as per the 24. Maybe, just maybe the Bachmann 25 will arrive way before the SLW version. I think Mr Sutton has missed the boat. Mike

This matter has been addressed to my satisfaction, many thanks Lucy. I am however amazed at the response my request for a telephone number has generated including an interrogation of Modellers Mecca website as to whether it complies with whatever regulations. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. Mike

Hello Lucy, Yes I have sent you an email direct but you do you know I also sent you a PM through RMWeb. Mike

Hello Lucy, I have now sent you three messages and received no reply, perhaps you would be kind enough to get back to me. Many thanks Mike

I did.

Since Modellers Mecca closed their shop does anyone have a telephone contact. I have searched the usual sites and they make no reference to a telephone number. Mike

Thanks Andy, sometimes one feels like a dope, I thought I had checked all my settings.

Andy can you help on this matter. When I select "View New Content" - it's empty with an apology. I have checked my settings and all appears to be OK. Regards Mike

Life is certainly not without risk. The risk appears to be paying for something that is not yet available in fact is far from available. If I buy from Hornby or Bachmann I get the goods. If I pay for a car it arrives. Dave Jones and Durham Trains may be known "entities" to you but not to me. As far I know Dave Jones used to work for Dapol and Durham Trains, never heard of them. However I do wish the project luck and if it proceeds it might emerge in 4 to 6 years, this estimate s based on the current progress of the crowd funded Class 92. Mike

Yes but! One could be handing over a tidy portion of the £1,000 sum upfront to persons unknown with nothing to show for it. What guarantees are there the money will be refunded should the project not take off or go belly up further down the line.

It's really very easy to do. I modified 3 version of the model you have. Invert the model in a cradle and remove the two screws securing the coupling to the bogie. Put the scew's by for any future use. Then place the tip of a screwdriver into the slot between the bogie frame and bogie bottom and gently prise up the base from the main frame. If you are careful you will not damage anything. Then take the opportunity to clean the wheels and grease the gears. Replacement is a reversal of the removal. Have fun Mike

It is very easy to remove the coupling and fit the valances. Pull out the coupling, them place the valance into the small recess and gently ease out the side valance and slip the the front in. A drop of glue applied at each side will ensure the valance does not move. The buffer beam detail can them be fitted. Mike