ROSSPOP

I think I said I use their Flockit and as you say it is a tad better than the Grassmaster..... it`s Greenscene static fibres that I find ineffective particularly as, in some of their grass shades, they include the dreaded red fibres

Change your Greenscene static grass to a better product. Mine would`nt hold a static charge well enough, and was a waste of money Eg Noch, Heki and /or MiniNatur if you can get it. I use Their Flockit and also a Grasmaster 2 You`ll never look back

Took advantage of a fine weather day today. Tracklaying has commenced.....

I`ve got and used Templot in my 4mm times John, but I wanted to work quickly and effortlessly. These turnouts were completed over four evenings at the kitchen table...... using my new cordless soldering iron..... I think they compare reasonably with my previous C&L finescale kits......

Thanks Hayfield, I don`t like wastage so I used all my accumulated trackwork stuff . I`ve taken advantage ,I hope, of the slightly reduced length of Peco pointwork geometry. They are not strictly GWR practice but after ballast and paint only hardened followers will notice. The copper pads are applied using Gorilla Superglue ( blue cap) John

I`ve recently taken a slightly unauthodox 7mm track building route using a very poorly made set of O-MF gauges. The unauthodox bit is that I have used Peco Individulay code 125 crossing , switch and rail parts but C&L two bolt chairs and ply sleepers. The method is the usual approach........ A set of five points ready for a `quicky` project...............

I think your right Ian they look a good match, thanks for that.... I think the kits version may need a little extra framing for 7mm perhaps?.... John

Good work Andy !! Better than it`s been for months...... but remember too many bananas can make you constipated.......

Actually Hal it`s the windows I`m doubting. Can`t find any pics of this style but I`m wondering if the kits single frame rendition is correct. Will make a good model though either way. I`ve got the Chudleigh kit to decide between. I`ll await your build.......

I`ve got this kit and to me the canopy is a good representation......

There`s always the old way of a sprinkle of ground black pepper............................. and then a wash of Precision weathered concrete enamel.

I`m very saddened to suddenly come across this news. I never met Graham but we often chatted on this forum about our modelling projects. I have many of his encouraging words on many of my GWR threads, he always came across as a really nice person. It would have been good to have met him .. I shall miss his comments.

I`m throwing in a curve ball....................... For the last two months I`ve switched over to a cordless soldering iron....... Powered by Butane gas , variable temperature up to 90w. Probably need to be confident with model soldering techniques. But so far...I`m very impressed. ....with O gauge coach building... and the usual point making methods.... So... Portasol Solder pro-125 £34.10 post free if with Amazon Prime. Pack of three 300mls Butane gas lighter fluid Amazon £7.99. and away you go.....

Mine continues to be very slow since Saturday. This evening I abandoned it a couple of times. Seems worse in the evenings.

Hi Crepello I agree with JOhn above about getting 60/40 Lead /Tin solder... I use it for everything these days as it will flow providing you have a potent flux. I assume you are in 4mm hence the 25watt iron. In my opinion `taint nowhere near hot enough. In my 4mm modelling days I used 40watt and 60 watt irons. So with a 40 watt iron and track making it will give plenty of heat which is what you need. If you are soldering dropper wires to rail attached to plastic chairs get some of these clips to act as heat sinks either side of where you are soldering. Next you need a potent liquid flux I used Carrs green label but nowadays I`ve gone back to Bakers Fluid_....why ? its a stronger acid and will clean what you intend to solder and enable the solder to flow BUT YOU MUST WASH OFF THE FLUX RESIDUE WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED THE TASK. This is true for nearly all fluxes or you will have corrosion problems if you don`t bother. Plenty of heat allows you to be quick `in and out` when soldering dropper wires and an acid flux will clean the rail quickly making the solder flow, plus you don`t need to faff around cleaning the rail sides , or pre- tinning everything. So:- Plenty of heat.( At least 40watt) Decent flux Decent solder Lead /tin 60/40 A heat sink if near plastic chairs. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with soldering projects. Now I`m an old codger I`m cooking soldering on gas, with all my 7mm soldering tasks and have changed over to gas soldering irons... 70watt and 90watt though. These give a lot more freedom and once you`ve got used to soldering techniques will do a great job even with track building.

Sound for model railway locos or diesels will never achieve convincing brilliance as only a prototype loco parked in my garden hissing and burbling and smelling will do that for me. But as I told my son back in the 1980`s `one day I`ll be able to add small mini computers to my loco builds that will emulate the real thing` That day has arrived...... For me the standards realised today complete the circle of a kit build and add an extra dimension to modelling....and you certainly can`t do that to the same degree with an Airfix Sopwith Camel.. So bring it on..... A further aim of mine ........................

Well done Andy, You know it makes sense !! This is the Youchoos sound on my O Gauge 48XX

Not enough info Andy , Is yours RTR, kitbuilt and are you prepared to hard wire it yourself... either way you will find a phone call or email to John at Youchoos a good move he is very helpful. Basically I would choose the smallest one ,size wise, that fits.... https://youchoos.co.uk/

What I did in 4mm and now do in 7mm ( still using 4mm rated decoders) is use a Zimo decoder which is the best for motor control and sound and sugar cube decoders ( look at the range of shapes available from Youchoos. My opinion ,of course, but Youchoos or Digitrains provide the best GWR loco sounds without exception. JLTRT 7mm Pannier with solid resin pannier casting so a large sugar cube seated deep in the chassis and a Zimo MX645 decoder....standard choice for most 7mm loco kits with modern motors. Digitrains sound,

An easy sliding fit Izzy, everytime, but sloppy fit never it will only end in tears when you progress to valve geared 0-4-0`s. A guaranteed method of simple chassis construction every time is to assemble the coupling rods first drilled to suit your chosen crank pin bearings.... and use them to accurately line up everything else... If you sloppy everything up at this stage you will be bu*^""$ed when you add other trappings....

Does`nt matter whether it`s an 0-4-0, 0-6-0, 0-8-0..... If the chassis is square and the wheels are not wobbly and the electrical pickups are the right type and positioned in the right place on the backs of the wheels an 0-4-0 will run perfectly well on Peco track......

I use this one from Amazon.

Way back in the 1980`s I said to my kids that one day Dad will be able to add prototype sounds to my kit builds that will emulate the movement of the real thing using clever electrionics. To all you Luddites..... those days have arrived.... ( for some time now.....) The next example is not my work but you`ll get the point..... As for volume of DCC sound..... this chap has found the volume button and in my opinion has got it right......... Railway Modelling is emulating the real thing as much as we possibly can......

If you are able...put it into storage and re-think it in 18months time.. It`s a masterful piece of work. John

I use these for my layout units.....