Bluemonkey presents....

Great job with the crane and match truck. I was never happy with mine and even less with the paint finish I applied but I, like you, took it apart and started again but went left when you went right; I am sure parts of this beast are very familiar. Jib and chains all working.

Well thank you to one and all here is the result of your help; Not completely finished as I need to glaze the windows and fix the roof not to mention the couplings, lamps and rear sand pipes. Oh look a little red thing as well that'll need couplings as well! Rather lazily I just took the livery appearance and number straight from the historical guidance in the instruction booklet but it goes nicely with the other two.

Morning, I think it is. Got it in one!

Thank you appreciate your knowledgeable input. I have decided on the Gold - 1922, Yellow 1923, gold -1927/8, yellow 1928+. This sits well with me. The debate on RMWeb that I have read through very quickly meanders to other livery types but that is not to say there are not many more here!

I will get to it when I am more focused and less stressed, hopefully later today we'll see.

Thanks Mikkel appreciate your help. I has only decided to along the gold colour this morning before logging on, as it seems to for better with lined locos. You have gained Legendary status with me, much respect Sir.

Has it arrived yet? I see the seller has relisted more stock.

Looks great from over here.

I am considering applying rule 1:1, it may not be prototypically accurate to the specific locomotive but is somewhat akin to the class and period and pleases the modeller's eye.

Here's a question for the brave ones out there; "Gold or yellow?". This has been bothering me all weekend. Of course I am pondering the co!our of lettering for an early 20s tank engine. Research suggests go!d lettering up to about 1927 and yellow after. Having asked the same question on another thread there is no further development on that. Now i have pictures of said locomotive one of grey factory livery which suggests gold and on 1907 suggesting it is yellow, unfortunately both in black and white. Further to this I have a Dean's Good fully lined but with yellow letter, this tank was a conversion of the Dean's Goods so by default suggests the tank would also be yellow but I also have a 1934+ 2-8-0 tank unlined with gold lettering!!!! The only thing I can say for sure is there is a garter between the word Great Western. Any takers? Go on be brave.

Sadly I think it is going to end up rule 1:1. This is a new subsection of rule 1, where the facts are correct but potential in the wrong period setting although it pleases the builder and subsequently enhances the model's appearance. Basically; if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck.........

Awesome Mikkel, love it. What a fantastic looking train you have there. Love the comment regarding the couplings.

Morning John, As always lovely pictures of a splendid layout. I find myself in a bit of a tizz, as it seems, you were a few years back. I am referring to the saga of tank locos and the lettering colour. Did you ever get the them bottom of the yellow v gold lettering for tank locomotives please? I am trying to finish a lined 39xx around the early 1920s period. I have read your discussion and have come to similar conclusions although I have two pictures of the class (black and white), one appears to have gold lettering albeit in factory grey livery whilst the other appears to be yellow 1909. Both are from Russell's Great Western Locomotive book Vol2 pp71 and 73. It might be that the later of the two pictures is appearing yellow but is truly gold. Hopefully you have the answer please!!!! Thank you for your time and any light you can throw on this one. Definitely has a garter between 'Great Western' that is something rock solid.

Well I failed twice. Not enough cider to face up to transfers also being distracted with the painting of the (nearly) made up wagon. OOOOps

Transfer day tomorrow Plenty of cider tonight once the new kit is put together

Restarted work this week after a very long time. Saw this little number on a list and could not resist! As you can see yesterday was spent cleaning flash and opening up buffer and coupling hook holes. Good to be back at work

Not entirely, I do like pasta though! And thanks.

Thanks please can you let me know what you think of it, appears the seller has removed the listing for the time being. Guess he/she had a rush on stocks

Thank you everyone, appreciate your advice.

Dear All, Please can someone with more knowledge about chemicals and solvents confirm that this product; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEK-METHYL-ETHYL-KETONE-ASC-Lab-grade-Highest-Quality/264745376497?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=564567780982&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 is actually what I think it is an can be used for plastic kit construction and scratch building in styrene, please? I use a lot and this, if it is the correct product, will help a great deal especially as it seems a very decent price although there could be cheaper/better suppliers out there. Disclaimer; I do not have any knowledge or relationship to the seller nor have I been a customer (yet, possibly). Thank you all in advance.

Interesting comment Mikkel about the lens and that would make a lot of sense. This one sadly no I have no sense and it is merely a trick of the light and camera but something to consider as certainly would be a detailing talking point should I ever have an interested visitor.

Thank you and yes it is certainly a weight lifted. Is this what you mean? 3 planker just for you.

Love his GWR 6 wheeled milk tank kit, if I could I would but loads.

Get the balance right and some serious inspiration can take place just need to know when to stop the modelling and continue with the inspiration.

Definitely that is the second best option of greasing the modelling wheels, in my opinion. Better still half and half although that does usually lead to less modelling and more problems,