Graham456

Eer ! Children possibly ! Who like to thrash things around the track! Is my guess

For a proper layout peco underlay won't last forever, my layout in the roof was dust around fifteen years, but that didn't stop me useing it again on a test track circuit in my junk room, where the sound deadening qualities were more important than anything, just don't over pin it and let the track float, Whilst proper ballest will look better, can you child wait that long for it to be done ?

Going back to your bouncy 517, from your discription the spring is to weak, not to strong so do not cut a coil out. The torque as you pull away if that's the right terminology is compressing the spring, eather get a new one or place a packer under it some how!

YOU WHAT ! I don't think there was 24 bhp in the ones I used to drive from from Bristol Cattle market office down to wedmore back in the day! Swaddled in mail bags to keep warm,crossing prince street bridge with out slowing down between the bollards (6'6") and a EA was that is (6'2") wide! Still wonder I got away without hitting them ever! All to the sound of the rear shutter banging up and down due to the play of the worn out Henderson shutter And if I remember 40mph was it! Once had twenty five postman drivers including me in the back of a 360 in a card school to kill time in the near two hour trip to Swindon to collect some new vans Thanks for the memories.....Eeer may be not shudder!

Bertiedog I take it this bit is not aimed at me the OP (Devcon is a top brand. The soldering is feasible, but you are going to have to learn it from scratch) as I plainly stated I have been useing what you called eutectic solder for years on Land Rovers ! But it's a very interesting post, makeing me think I will investigate the gorilla glue angle thank you Bertiedog

I know what you are saying David I have come across more than a few whitemetal kits with rubbery araldite that fall apart, and i to well remember the sticky mess I got in with it in my youth building K's kits but that encouraged me to learn solder kits. It was this sticky finger mess that made me post this question in case any improvements had arrived in fourty years, I can't see super glue working on a flexible surface? Or will it be OK? And I am worring to much about ally expanding and contracting shattering the joint P S you need TIG not MIG to weld ally got one, but not going there!, can really see the wife being happy with me lugging the welder up to the muddling room NOT !

[quote name="bertiedog" post="2669474" timestamp="1490826072" Do not attempt soldering, it works but needs years of experience and practice. Stephen There are in the classic car field quite a few products for soldering ally quite easily! (Thirty seven years of Land Rover ownership does give you years of experience and practice ! )You just have to aggatate the surface to get the solder through The oxidation coating, great on Land Rover wings And eroded castings ! But I don't think I go there on the model! But thank you for the glue advise that's what I needed

I have a couple of Hobbytime mink F kits to build, now the instructions recommend a few glues, but due to the passage of time these are no longer made, parafrat ? ? Now being a very long time Land Rover owner I know all about the oxygenation of of the surface makeing it a pain to join, but I don't think my normal TIG welding ! Would be any good / appropate in this case! Can any one suggest the best glue for sticking this kit together,there are ally to ally bits and ally to whitemetal joins to do. And I have seen with this kit the recommendation of turning the internal reinforcements around to put the cross walls more evenly spaced from what the instructions say, comments ?

Ha ! good try, see you have no excuse Trains4U have thought of every contingency!

Love it From that angle she appears to be levitating, with not a wheel in sight

Well yes in the short term, but over the life time of thirty years for a stock that wage bill would sure mount up in evcess of the cost of fitting continuous brakes But the main reason for fitting brakes would of course being forced to By the board of trade and haveing had a few runaway Armagh type problems

I have wondered for a while now, when people slice up coaches,how do you keep the saw vertical? Miter saw block and razor saw? But my block is to small I have a miter saw but the blade is to course, can you get a miniature one ? Gosh midnight....Merry Christmas

If you'd had a Nellie when you were a child you might have understood why this thread has such life and depth. TOY ! How insulting... Nellie is something far greater than that, to some of us she is the the start of every thing ! Now where is that tongue in cheek smilie gone o well big grin one will do

You will be lucky! Like Captain Scarlet there indestructible and even if ailing you don't need six million dollars to rebuild them But do show what you get up to .....but your not getting your hands on any of mine....butcher!

[quote Specsavers? The smokebox door is awful, the chimney is awful, there's none of the auto gear that actually make it an autotank and the cab is completely devoid of anything (except motor in the early ones! Yes talking of specsavers ! Did you read my post stating PRODUCED FOR THE LATE 1970s ? Or do you not think it was a vast leap improvement compaired to what Hornby were doing then ? To my mind it stood out as a outstanding model when new, and still good And the fact you are planning /thinking of putting a Airfix body on the new chassis tells us all even you don't think it's to bad of a body?

True, It is all well and good for the original poster, who we are advising in this thread....he has one! Any one else is stuffed sad to say unless you salted one or two away

Yes I doubt it will be much better body wise, there is so little wrong with what Airfix produced for late 1970s until you get below the footplate where it all went a bit wrong mechanicy, and have hattons produced anything with a fully detailed cab to the level of the mainly trains detailing kit. And the best reason for sticking with the Airfix model is that he gets to do some Modeling not just another box opener!

Not really in the sence of limited edition more a case of the fact the production time/period was shorter due to there later introduction limiting the numbers, they can be found

SNAP, apart from the year of manufacture for me, but all the other things apply to me as well and I still have my third birthday present Nellie it's amazing the versions out their if you want a cheep loco to collect, I took it to extreme and married a Nellie ...well Nell !

I suspect the eight ton outside framed van in the back row of your picture is Ian Kirk's product if that's of any help but I can't remember what diagram number it is to help with numbering it, useful wagon for something different In amongst all the other look-a-like gwr vans, I believe a modern kit is on the David Geen lists

Does it have to be the front can't it be the back? Or even the side of judea

So in answer to this thread of "What have you done with your Keyser's kit" SOLD IT applies

A aha BUT ! It's not that obvious to me... You see I have more than seven, only just though at eight,BUT five of them are still kits and only three of them built up, and that's enough on the track with out looking to silly, but when you find then for two quid at toy fairs who can leave them on the stall? As a side issue for the same kit from the same maker there are a few variations on as supplyed P S in a earlier post some one said the Calidoilan 0-4-4 tank is available from DJH now......trouble is its not the K's one and this thread is about what have you done with your Keyers kit not what have you done with your DJH kit,any one like to start that one up

Now if you fit a modern small can motor driveing the rear axel and pointing at the cab end . because it's a lot lighter than the period heavy lump motor, you can then fill the boiler and front of the tanks and the chassis around the front driver with lead, solving the wheelie tendencies of the kit which made it such a sod and was one of the reasons (so I am told) for its withdrawal from sale after such a short production run conpaired to the rest of the K's range

Much prefer toplights first please, I can put up with my surgically enhanced Airfix ones until after the toplights come out....anyone tried building the slaters toplight kits ...give me a loco kit far easier and they make carving Airfix B sets a sleep walking doddle