AlfaZagato

I have a short post this week. I bought a Woodland Scenics Static King at a reasonable discount. Store I bought it from had used it once for the store layout. I payed about 70% of list for the applicator itself. Why do I mention this in my anything goes blog? Why would I not post this in my trains blog? Boom. and a cruel close-up of one of the pauldrons; I'm OK with some patchiness. This is supposed to be a horror-movie sort of thing. I must be mad, though. I will use the applicator for a layout. Sometime.

I'd almost say bring it darker. You should consider that you are 76 times closer to the model than you would be the real thing. Except on a clear, high noon, colors tend to wash out dark at a distance.

Helicopter shot? I'd hate to see the helicopter you're using for such things. The only helicopters I can think of that match to Shirtbuttons amount to gutted parasols with seats.

Missed the update last week, but more to show this week for it. Mostly in-progress of paint. The contest Gundam model is in paint, now. I picked up a Woodland Scenics Static King to do the fur. The Magister is in yellow, and the Aston is in silver. While iconic, my DB5 will end up being green. (Probably) See you next week.

What did Brighton expect to haul in these things? That end bracing looks overkill. Excellent model, by the way.

This makes me happy my pending layout is Rule 1 in the first place. I'll be happy to pick this up.

I'm with Northroader. 1/4" brass through the backscene would probably do it, especially if you have a 'joist' for the backscene already in a good spot.

You would think that. You really would.

Still, the point being, fitting an alternate boiler is not too involved to deter updating what were supposedly inferior locomotives into standard practice.

Look, too, at what Churchward and Collett both did after grouping. How many Welsh locos received No. 2s?

Have evolutions of Raven's Pacific ever been discussed here? As though Raven had taken the helm in stead of Gresley after grouping? I sadly don't know enough of Raven's work to say may where he may have gone with development. I did have a kit-built City of Nottingham some years ago, but I sold it on as not in line with my interests at the time. Came and went cheap. I found the actual and apparent length in comparison to a Gresley Pacific attractive. Maybe a shortened driver wheelbase to allow a larger, deeper firebox and a trailing bogie?

If it came from Marklin, they tend to articulate frames to allow for trainset curves. Their ten-coupled locos come to mind. Having the first axle follow the pilot would do it.

Hard coal would likely produce less dust than softer coal. I think Welsh wagons then would be dirtier inside than, say, Scottish, then, or do I have that flipped?

I need to do more work. Work was slow at work, so I had the bright idea to bring a Gundam to build at work. Took me a day-and-a-half. I do enjoy the Gundam kits, especially the Master Grade kits. They are snap-fit but entirely rewarding. Here is the F91; If any of you are Gunpla fans, this is the Ver. 1.0 of the MG F91, and an early run kit, too. I have built the 'Harrison' version before, so missed out on the Rafflesia stand seen here. Both stand and kit could use detail painting, but I'll burn that bridge when I get there. Speaking of paint, I finally had a dry day this evening. Cue continuance of priming; The whole of the contest model is primed, now. I may need to go back and fill in gaps and roughness, but I can't let myself get too stuck in. The judging is in July, and Chicago is being flighty as all hell this year with weather. I hate Chicago, by the way.

How does that hold to Hastings? Everything I've read makes Hastings seem as bad as the L or Underground.

I had forgotten those. I had meant Gresley coaches with motors and pickups. Like how the some of the LMS EMU's were.

What is the wheelbase on the old Hornby El Cheapo? If it's close enough, I'd think it could make a decent Wheatley 0-4-0.

To hell with tags. This week, only more work on the current contest build. First time using Miliput, all previous work of relevant type being done with 10-year-old Citadel Green Stuff. Shorty can of Tamiya primer died before I had the whole Gundam monster primed. I need to stick to the large cans. Don't mind the white object at the bottom of the rack shot. Totally not a DB5.

The perspective is messing with my eyes. If you have four wheels there, I don't know that there is a particular prototype. Even in the US, that would be heavy on the rails. If you have six wheels, yes, that would be very near a USRA 0-6-0. Was the original tender slope-backed, with a large lamp near the apex of the slope?

Can you imagine, teak EMUs?

Cool to see it finished.

All this talk of pooling habits is great, but what about new suppliers for GWR wagons? I'm not an expert, but wouldn't some RCH types be suitable, maybe with GWR work's plates and brake gear modified accordingly? Doing both would be a nuisance on a larger volume of wagons, but might be palatable for a handful.

Hopefully not clear. Clear people would be very disturbing.

The Forex shows decent results, but I'd imagine it would be rather dear. Have you considered taking a sanding block with some 400-grit to the DAS after it cures? One or two passes should bring down the rounded profile, but I have no recent experience with clay.

Most of the week was working on a new project. I have decided to enter a new contest. The group I am with, Gunpla Builders of Chicago, is doing a coopted contest with a regional group. The theme for the build is Gundam Build Fighters. That theme was described as just custom work. So, I'm going a little wild. This is what I have so far; No paint as of yet. These Gundam kits come molded in color, and are normally snap-fit. This build uses parts from Gundam Vidal, a LaGowe, and a Tiren ground type. I was intending to have a top-heavy look, but I appear to have underestimated the size of the LaGowe chest. I may try bulking it out a bit. I plan on picking up some Milliput tomorrow. I think a hump on the back, using a kit part as a former for some Miliput. There are also meant to be intake grilles on the chest. I may use them as intended, or I may try with a different idea. I have also been repairing my centaur for Dungeons and Dragons. I replaced the white metal axe haft, fitted originally with butt-joints, with a rod-and-tube haft. The rod, brass, runs the entire length of the tube, copper, through the hand and into the axehead. I also used some rod to pin his top to his bottom. Torso to neck, as it were. Filling and another coat of primer will come next here. I want to figure out more on the kitbash, first.