LongRail

Merfyn, Tiny HK transits are nice models and have correct wheels just need to get them at the right price

Looks good what did you use for the seats they look very good

I have built a few Sherpa models and have a kingfisher kit for a sherpa minibus to build at some stage

the minibus uses an ABS nose and my own design of etching, need a bit if tweaking to be honest. interior and wheels are a mixture of various components.

latest transit conversions

latest models bit of a ford transit theme here

Dave looking good and great photos once afain

Didn’t realise you were planning to take the layout to exhibitions will really be one to look out for

Paul have you tried printing the smaller parts on your resin printer

I have a couple of skips on my layout and over the years as I modify kits and models any little offcuts and unused pieces are put in the skips so over time they fill up with a nice selection of shapes and sizes

Interesting layout one comment is that the fence at the end of platforms should have a gate and set of steps down for passenger escape in an emergency

Andy it’s looking great the buildings really catch the atmosphere bet you can’t wait to start running trains

Thanks ray r055 is the one I am after may have to join and purchase a couple of them given they only sell to members because of tax restrictions apparently

Unfortunately I am not a member I emailed them and received a phone call but they wouldn't confirm if the have moulds for the minibus fronts i am after

I would be interested if the range of bus parts comes back into production as I have a few of the mk2 for transit components used for various models and would like to get more

Not encountered plant resin wonder if that may be the problem just checked and I upgraded my firmware to V5.0.2 and it works fine with chitubox creates .photons files

Big time saving with dip is printing multiple copies at the same time what is going wrong. what are you using as the slicing software. the one that comes with the printer is rubbish. I use chitubox which does require a firmware update but loads better than photon workshop

Great photos again have to love the symmetry of the roadway and the track in photo Deerness Valley Junction Reilly Mill view north 22nd April 89 C12088.jpg

Thought blimey they are big track pins then realised I forget they are N gauge

Dave that’s an interning explanation I suppose I think of the layout as a permanent fixed home layout but I also seem to recall it has been moved into its current location or is my memory playing up? was going to suggest the short length of rail across the joints as I was reading, but then you said you had done this. Do you get much temperature range ? I wonder how well insulated the roof is?

Dave with regards to eth issue of derailments out of interest which code of track are you using. Great photos again by the way

Andy, will be interesting to see it in place on the layout, may put some perspective into it. I would have thought given the age it would most likely have a hipped roof originally but could well have been replaced at some time. reminds me of the roof to Curzon Street Station in Birmingham

Thats a strange looking building it almost appears as if it should sit on top of something else

What about a CMX track cleaning truck, I have the 00 gauge one and it works well. I have seen in a couple of places that use of a track rubber can damage the rail head which allow dirt to collect even more.

Brass etches are more complex as the parts need to remain on the sheet of the material so each part needs a gap crated around any section to be removed with tabs left in place to hold everything in place. You then need to create a drawing which uses one colour where you want to etch on the front of the sheet Another colour where you want a half depth etch on the front of the sheet and finally a third colour where you want a half depth etch on the front of the sheet. You then mirror the drawing so you have a front and back image removing the colours which are on the opposite side. This gives the etches for the front of the sheet and the back of the sheet as separate images. You then convert all the colours to Black an White. Basically with acid etching each side of the sheet is half etched and where the etchings coincide on both sides you get a hole, if that make sense