LongRail

David, I don’t understand what you would want to generally feed the buffer stop ends of the points on a DC layout as you don’t get the isolation from the points

Feed goes to toes of points so,that the power is switched along with rather point blade

Andy that was a good idea

I keep my plastic weld in an old mug which keeps it upright

This is modified from a Oxford Diecast Wales & Edwards 'Standard' milk float with the front rebuilt to create the more modern rounded front as found on the Unigate vehicles.

The milkman has finally turned up, time for a cup of tea, this is modified from a Oxford Diecast Wales & Edwards 'Standard' milk float with the front rebuilt to create the more modern rounded front as found on the Unigate floats. Number plate is of a real Unigate vehicle found on a photograph from the internet which shod it operating in Dunstable

I paint my rails by hand apply good coating and while it is still drying wipe along the rails with a cotton cloth. This evens it out cleans the sides and spreads the paint around on the ballast and sleepers to give that general dirty appearance. That way you can quickly paint the rails.

You will loose some of the definition of the rivets once paint is applied. May be worth spraying a few coats on the sample too see how it then comes out

Adrian retired from Chiltern a few years ago and is now heading up viva rail amongst other things

Richard moving cars are the one thing I would have liked to include on my layout but didn't allow for vehicles turning around when I built it what sort of radius do they need to turn? Are they HO vehicles or have you motorised 00 gauge models

Great news and placed my pre-order for a yellow pair

That’s a good idea

Not sure where this diagram comes from but it is not UK gauge. Inner face of rails in uk are 1432 apart although it is often referred to as 1435 now

Getting excited and looking forward to receiving my models

Will the body be hollow orvserator seperate sections to join ? If it one solid piece it will add to the cost. Seperate doors at the back at least would be good as it would provide an easy solution to have the rear doors open

Rob the Chiltern Colours are RAL BLUE 5002 (Think I used Revell Ultramarine blue) (RGB = 0 15 117) RAL RED 3020 (Traffic Red) (think I used Humbrol Ferrari Red) RGB = 199 23 18) I used to use the paint database at "http://scalemodeldb.com/paint" unfortunately it doesn't exists any more . Just found this website but it needs a bit more research https://encycolorpedia.com/cc0605

A Andy thanks couldnt get the link to work but looking at the address and searched for Bruff Rail found the brochure. Exactly what I was looking for thanks

I am in the process of building a 1/76 scale Bruff and wondered if anyone has any detail of the inside of the cab I am particularity interested in knowing what is behind the 2 mesh screen either side of the cab and if there is a boxed out section within the cab area

Paul, thanks, The current body is made of clear sheet with overlay stickers I produced, currently working on an etched brass version which will have better details and which can be sprayed the correct shade of yellow

Phil,have thought about the undercutter but prefer motorised vehicles as opposed to static displays. Going to build a Bruff at some stage already have a suitable motorised chassis

Couple of videos of personnel carriers on my layout

Track recording unit returning to the Railway Technical Centre

Track recording unit conversion to class 950 from Bachmann class 150/1 now complete (Almost as I still have to pick out the lamp bezels in black)

Bill, this is not aimed at you The reason I posted is that I am totally feed up with people trying to derail this project, once again people who have most likely not signed up are once again on about the T&C's WHY.??? the legal stuff has been sorted out ages ago and there are endless posts about this. When there was an issue with Paypal , no fault of DJ models people started raising all sorts of issues and at one stage this thread was actually locked in an attempt to call it to an end. I for one have put my money were my mouth is and have accepted the risk. From reading the posts querying the financial status it appears those who are most vociferous have no intention of buying a model. So why rake it up again. If anyone has a problem with the process suggest they speak to Dave directly, that is the grown up thing to do. I thought we had got past this and were going to talk about the model but once again we get the same old stuff which has been addressed on numerous occasions. No wonder Dave has reverted to direct posts, dont blame him There are new models coming to the hobby through people like DJ Models, Cavalex and Accurascale for example and if we want variety and models that people have wanted for years then we need to support these companies. It is a hard world out there and difficult to do business at the best of times.

The maps normally have the grid lines titled with their coordinates so you should be able to work out the scale from there