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rab

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    EBay madness

    in Ebay Topics

    Posted · Edited by rab

    On 24/10/2023 at 09:02, Tofufi said:

    One of Gostude's latest offerings:

     

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335084806226

     

     

    I know these are one of the rarest Tri-ang items, but even so... the condition isn't great and it isn't a complete set. It'll be interesting to see if it sells...

     

     

    Well at least it's not "kit built".

     

    Apparently the wheels need quartering,

    I thought that only applied to wheels

    linked by connecting rods???

    • Like 1
    • Agree 3
    • Funny 4

    Hoping some Kato users will"turnout on this point"

    in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips

    Posted

    As I've mentioned before, after trying and failing with Peco N gauge track,

    (due to failnig eyesight and dexterity) I've now gone over to Kato.

     

    Their points are of course motorised (12V dc).

    I've been operating them manually, but am now

    thinking about wiring up the point motors.

     

    Kato produce a Turnout Switch, the idea being one for each turnout.

    However it occurred to me (being tight-fisted :)  ) that it should be possible

    to use one turnout switch wired to  a rotary switch which can be set

    to send the momentary output from the turnout switch to the

    required turnout.

     

    The only problem I see that whereas with one switch per turnout

    the switch lever will always be in the correct position to give a pulse

    of the correct polarity to move the turnout in the required direction,

    with a rotary switch this may not always be the case.

     

    If say I have set it to send one turnout from straight to diverging, then change

    the rotary switch to carry out the same thing on another turnout,

    the turnout switch will be in the position to send a pulse of the opposite polarity.

    In moving it to the required position I will be sending a pulse to move the turnout

    to the position it's already in, (sorry if this is getting a bit confusing).

     

    So my question is, am I likely to damage the point motors by sending

    a wrong polarity pulse through them, as I move the switch lever to

    the required position to give the correct polarity pulse.

     

    As always, thanks in advance for any responses. 

    The Forum Jokes Thread

    in Wheeltappers

    Posted

    A really silly one, which came to mind

    reading another (now closed) thread

    where mention was made of Boots.

     

    An old guy stops someone in the street,

    and asks if they can suggest anywhere

    he could buy a hot water bottle.

     

    "Have you tried Boots" they said.

     

    "Yes", he replied, "but the water

    comes out of the lace-holes"!

     

    (Plenty more where that came from but

     I'll resist the temptation to share more).

    • Like 2
    • Funny 8

    Running on Filthy track

    in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips

    Posted

    24 minutes ago, andyman7 said:

    The centre shoe scrapes the live rail clean and everything else is part of the return path. Electrically it's a lot more robust than two rail running

    There's your answer then.

     

    Fit track cleaning shoes in front of the first set of driving wheels.

    Of course if you want to run tender first you'd need them

    behind the last set of driving wheel as well.  :)

    • Like 1
    • Funny 1

    Steam Thunderbirds

    in UK Prototype Questions

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Jeremy Cumberland said:

    The safety valve is clearly stuck open. We don't know what real time elapsed between the beginning of the video and 1:56, when it looks like the fire is being thrown out, but steam (at rather less pressure now) is still blowing out past the valve.. There's still steam coming out as the 9F backs down onto the train.

     

    You don't need to put the feed on to make the safety valve stop blowing off (although often this is exactly what you want to do). The entire purpose of a safety valve is to drop the pressure to a safe level without any other intervention being necessary.

     

    Whether this is related to the tanks being empty is a different matter. You can lose an awful lot of water through a safety valve, but I can't really imagine the safety valve blowing for long enough to empty the tanks, not without something else being amiss.

     

    They were quite common. The injector wasn't invented till 1858 so all locomotives prior to this had feed pumps. Feed pumps persisted (sometimes in conjunction with one injector) on conventional locomotives well into the twentieth century. They were invariably fitted to condensing locomotives, whose feed water often became too hot for injectors to work, and they were also found on locomotives with feed water heaters, such as the Franco-Crosti 9Fs.

    Good point about the steam through the safety valve at low pressure, didn't think of that.

     

    A trick I've seen used on sticking traction engine safety valves was to !"'it it wiv a 'ammer"

    but I guess that isn't an option or would be frowned on in railway practice

     

    Steam Thunderbirds

    in UK Prototype Questions

    Posted

    I agree a safety valve blowing off could be stuck open,

    but more likely to be due to not being able to get water

    into the boiler to reduce the pressure.

     

    I suspect the term water pump was a case of Chinese whispers.

    Someone heard what happened but didn't know the correct terminology,

    so added their own interpretation.

     

    AS a matter of interest, were water pumps ever used on Railway locos.

    I guess may have been on early ones, but I was under the impression that

    all"modern" locos had injectors only.

    EBay madness

    in Ebay Topics

    Posted · Edited by rab

    2 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

    Wow!  I'd forgotten those ancient Rovex battery box controllers with the forward/reverse switch on top.

    I doubt if you can still get those old batteries.

    I sold a heavily modified version of one of those, as part of a Princess Elizabeth set, a few years back. The set was bought for my brother and I in 1954.  Times were still hard then, and Dad soon got fed up with buying new batteries for us, so he bought a transformer then added connectors to the controller.  He also added a speed control with a hand wound resistance coil.  A few years later we were given a Jinty which ran much faster, so to get it to run slower a second coil was added.

    • Like 4
    • Informative/Useful 1
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1

    How to know the difference

    in Graham Farish

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Kris said:

    I think that the single vent was 2304.

    I suspect that I have some boxed in the loft somewhere.

    Thanks @Kris .

     

    I've googled 2304 and it does indeed

    show the single vent version.

     

    I was trying number either side of 2404,

    (2403, 2405), but I guess I was being too logical. :)

    How to know the difference

    in Graham Farish

    Posted

    Resurrecting this thread for a slightly different reason.

     

    I'm trying to sort out the Poole part number for the

    Farish GW single vent van (grey).

    I have some I want to sell on eBay,

    but would like to get the boxes and listing correct.

    (I currently have single and twin vent vans

    both in boxes marked 2404) 

    I believe the twin vent ot be No, 2404,

    but cannot find a number for the single vent

     

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