Austrag

That logo is familiar........

The camera is fine, your focus isn't. If you don't get answer soon, then I will at my club tomorrow. They use lots of kit built loco's and will know. Regards David

I think this is madness. Look at the bidding page! http://offer.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=271753538906&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2565

I have just stumbled upon this layout and I like what I see, very well done. The name intrigued me because I live nearby, just a few fields away in Buckden. From the A1 south all you see is the church, the village is further way to the east and now the large bushes have gone more is to be seen but it is only a fleeting glimpse. The other side of Buckden is/was the remains of the old Buckden station with the route to Kettering west and north to Huntingdon. Thanks a bunch Mr Beeching. Part of the route there was bridged under the A1 north and the bridge is still in use although it has been reduced to a single lane by the massive concrete buttresses to keep it standing. Ah those were the halicon days. David

I think many eBay users, sellers and buyers alike, don't really understand the rules regarding "No Returns". The rule is there to stop buyers having received an item which was as properly described in the listing, and then changing their mind and then asking their money back. If an item is not as described in the listing then the rule does not apply at all. I have had several instances where the seller has quoted "No Returns" and each time eBay has adjudged in my favour and gived me the full price plus postage, provided the goods were sent back to the seller. David

Nothing to it. I fixed my unit this morning after reading the posts. The black part of the button is profiled as a dish to keep the two apart normally. The tape becomes a barrier between them. Just unscrew the 9 screws, keep it with the buttons downwards, lift the board up over the pegs, which the screws fit into and it lifts out in one piece. Lay it aside carefully, ie don't drop it the window is fairly robust, then you can see the buttons, which are a one-piece item. I then cut the tape as a small square over the button. Re-assemble it carefully, do not overtighten the screws and that's it. To put it back to normal, remove the tape and any residue using something like IPA track cleaner. David

A really solid fail-safe method is to open open the case and stick a small piece of cellotape or similar on the button contacts to stop the contacts making the circuit. The rubber buttons are carbonized and short across the printed grid. Conversely, if a button is erratic when pressed, a soft pencil like a 4B rubbed on the button will rejuvenate the contact for a while. Take your choice. David

Thanks, I have the instructions here also. In the meantime I will get another one, I had always budgeted for two as the layout requires it eventually but now it will brought forward. The programming of it now is fraught with difficulty as it has a mind of it's own with random movements and stopping at the 180 when calibrating but not when moving to a track stop and also the centre position sometimes becomes the second stop. It may be that the pit sensor is duff. When the new one arrives I can check before I send the offending part back. BTW the link didn't work for me. Regards David

Well, with no replies pending it seems, I dug around for over three hours and found the circuit and with my X250 lenses and a very bright torch the answer is that you can't. The P222T, which is a Common Anode Silicon Dual Switching Diode chip (no memory) and the other one is a PIC16F628A FLASH memory chip so don't play with that one at all. Any resetting is through the programming. Drat!

My Heljan 89121 DCC version seems to work but having played around for a while and getting myself thoroughly confused in the process, I wish to reset everything IE wipe the memory clean. Does anyone know how to do that please? David

You can have all these noisy pigeons from here, no loss to me!

Thanks Stewart, they look quite good and will go down that route now, must be easier for me. David

Hi everyone, I have just finished my Cl 17 having read every word of this topic and noting the changes you guys made. My example was a chassis only lump from ebay and with the help of Howes spares and a lot of fiddling, I can't use one hand too well, it runs well and I managed to fit a decoder at the side of the cab area. I haven't worked out how to light up the headcodes yet, is there a special cover to fit over the window housing? All I can find is those on Howes web site which don't help me at all. Is it a box affair or LED housing before I try and make my own? Regards