loickebros

A Diorama

Personally I would not use screws but glue them with no nails instead

5 hours ago, steviesparx said:

 

I'm afraid someone seems to have made an error in listing, as all the prices have either increased or increase when you attempt to checkout !

By the look of it when they listed them all they entered cost price by mistake shame they spotted the error.

Thread here

Regards

Dave

9 hours ago, Nearholmer said:

Out of interest, what current do they draw?

 

Someone "up thread" said 40A, which seems a heck of a lot to me; might he have meant that they have a power of 40W, which seems more feasible?

 

I've seen the 00LS track at an exhibition, and very interesting it was.

 

 

They draw 7 Amps at 16 volts

Clearly nobody commenting here has owned one and had the joy of using one properly they are a marvel and highly addictive.

The thread is about live steam and not batteries!!

If you want to discuss other things then please start an appropriate thread.

I am assuming the OP is referring to Hornby OO live steam and the reason it didn;t catch on at the time was because it was a lot of money at the time to outlay and needed a dedicated track/control system.

It now has a dedicated following and many locomotives commanding a far higher price than originally sold for.

For more info please visit this website https://www.oolivesteam.com/

How about these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C8724-24-PCS-36-Metal-Wheels-for-Model-Train-1-87-HO-Scale-DC-Wheel-set-New/311862974740

There are other options if you search their shop.

Dave

7 hours ago, w124bob said:

Following on from this, when a power car is hauled from the blunt end with a barrier coach I seem to recall a temporary lamp bracket is used . 

Found this on Youtube, the bracket that holds a temporary lamp bracket can clearly be seen on the top edge of the coupler cover panel. There's also a newer clip showing the coupler bar with a buckeye adpator. Off cause in real life you'd be miles from anywhere in the dark and it would be chucking it down!

 

Great video!

If you intend to turn it into a proper room there are allsorts of building regs to adhere to but if you are only going to access it by a loft ladder and don't want to go mad and change joists etc board it out and srew the boards down every 6 inches you will be surprised how solid that will make it.

Dave

19 minutes ago, montyburns56 said:

I recently order some items from them late on Friday evening and I was surprised that they arrived on Monday, as I had presumed that they wouldn't be despatched until the following Monday.

Always found the service great as well.

Have a look here http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_28_63

Dave

28 minutes ago, mswjr said:

Thanyou, Ill give them a try, I actually never thought of going direct to them . Thanks

Best to do online, I don't think you will get much sense on the phone.

Dave

Hornby themselves are usually the cheapest as long as they have them in stock.

Dave

And if you want realism try this https://www.magnorail.com/en

Dave

21 minutes ago, standardblue said:

That's an interesting picture, thanks Dave. What's the orange jumper? And, are those buffers temporary while the cab is removed, or always the beneath the skirt? Are they sprung?

 

Thanks,

Mark

Hi Mark the jumper is the same as the ones between power car & trailer cars it is there so the sets can be put on shore supply whilst in the depot.

Yes the buffers are there all the time behind the skirts and they are solid not sprung.

Dave

On 19/01/2019 at 21:36, richscylla said:

I am working on something similar. Does anyone have pictures of their versions. The ones in Chris' thread no longer show.

 

Cheers, 

 

Rich

Here is a picture of the real thing taken with the cab & skirts removed so you can see all the other bits in there clearly.

Dave

They are certainly not that suitable for wall hanging in any house built with plasterboard walls. I solved the problem by mounting it on top of a low, pretty solid, cabinet so that whilst fixed to the wall that is solely to prevent toppling and the weight is taken by the cabinet it sits on.

I have had mine on plasterboard walls for five years using normal plasterboard fixings with no problems, I did however drill extra holes in them and doubled up on the number of fixings.

Dave

Heljan O gauge VBA sliding door van in EWS livery looks pretty good value to me at £34.

In case anyone was wondering https://www.hattons.co.uk/StockDetail.aspx?SID=62727

Dave

How about experimenting with fibre optics then you could have the led's under the baseboard.

Dave

Hi 

 

So i have 2 Bachmann Class 40's , Both have Bachmann 21 pin decoders , until today the head lights and tail lights were both working , but they have now stopped working but the loco's still work as normal , I cleaned the track and that didn't work  so I'm a bit confused 

 

any idea's ? 

 

Thanks , Ian

You have probably changed the speed step settings on your controller by accident.

Bachmann decoders are actually ESU decoders the lights only work properly if you have it set to 128 steps you have probably got it set on 14 or 28 steps if everything else works as normal.

Dave

I would have liked to attend but unfortunate choice of date I will like possibly some others be traveling to brum for warley.

Perhaps a better date might be chosen next time.

Dave

If it is still moving or still finishing playing one of the function sounds then by pressing F1 all you are doing is pausing the sound not shutting it down make sure all other sounds have finished playing and you let it idle for a few seconds before pressing F1 to shut down.

Most people don't know you can pause the sound whilst running try it for yourself whilst running round your layout with sound press F1 to pause sound & press it again to resume sound.

Dave

Hi there,

 

I'm looking at using PECO Streamline Code 75 track and I'm wondering about track spacing when combined with points with crossovers. With the streamline the centre-to-centre distance is 50mm whereas with the Setrack (and Hornby) it's 67mm. 

 

I don't have many trains yet so I don't have a good enough collection to do some real world tests with different sized trains and engines to determine the best spacing between tracks on various curves.

 

Does anyone have a suggestion on the best size to go for between tracks? I'm not looking at a huge layout here so the trains aren't going to be massive the radius of the curve won't be less than a Hornby 2nd radius (438mm). 

 

I'd prefer the larger gap (67mm) but not quite sure on the best way to achieve this using the Streamline points. Any idea there?

 

Thanks in advance for any tips!

 

Adam

Best way is to use one of these http://durhamtrainsofstanley.co.uk/my_store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=119_120_52&products_id=4890

Dave

Or EWS class 66 with CDA China clay hoppers.

Dave

hi all, need a bit of help please on what the current modern day loco's are in Devon/Dorset for hauling Freight.

 

my layout is 1930's>1940's south west but i also run GWR (Class 800), FGW HST, GWR Class 57 and FGW class 153 for modern day traffic in this area.

 

I don't know normally bother with modern day freight but i fancy something a bit different. the more i google the more confused i get, there seems no specific type of loco or freight traffic, maybe that's why i'm confused, trying to find something specific to the area and time frame when in truth it could be anything...

 

hoping to get to Rails tomorrow so was hoping to come back with a new toy!

Colas class 70 with china clay tanks.