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I’ve been there with second hand cars . I couldn’t afford a new one and then had to spend out on a new starter. Then the gearbox went and suddenly I’ve spent more than a new car on my second hand one ; but I’ve invested so much I can’t sell and buy a new one . Keep at it , Johnster !

Hello and Welcome Johnster . I missed your updates whilst RMweb was struggling . Any news ? Best Ken

I favour Pendon’s approach of having a given year with plus or minus 5 years each side . I selected 1935 so I can run GWR railcard . 1935 is in itself a good year coming a year after the introduction of the “shirt button” monogram .

You won’t be remembered for being the first ; you will be remembered for being The Best .

I’ve just watched the message about drop in wheels for your Deltic to EM and P4 . That’s proper joined up thinking ! The demo run on Eastwood was grand and impressive. Now , I know you said you wouldn’t recommend trying to convert your Manor to EM but … wouldn’t it be luvverly ?! to misquote My fair lady . I live in hope . Edited for typo.

Has the gearing of 18:1 been changed on the Prarie ?

I wanted to replicate the Smithfield meat van trains shown in Russell so created a hybrid 97xx . The chassis , mechanicals and cab came from Bachman. I added the tanks etc from a K’s body line kit of a 97xx and the extra weight has given it a bit more grunt . The vans were Dublo Micas and the shorty Toad from PMK . The Micas were a bodge but , overall , the train pleased me.

I believe that grey rooves were introduced during the war as a semi camouflage measure . The early streamlined “Flying Bananas “ had white rooves but were built pre war .The later “razor edge “ cars introduced during the war had grey rooves from the start.In addition the top part of the windscreen had some form of covering or finish as a black out measure. I believe the Royal Train had its roof painted too in a similar way .

Good call ! Please let us know how you get on .

Regarding the matter of shed plates I am reflecting on how far we have come and how stratospheric standards are now . My train set in 1956 was a Triang black Princess. No valve gear , too short etc but I thought it was wonderful. 60 years later we have the Accurascale Manor ; accurate down to subtle variations; a beautiful jewel! And incredibly detailed even down to shed plates , which at my age , I struggle see without my specs . How lucky we are .

I have 2 Bachman Halls and a Hornby ( Railroad ) Hall . In my opinion , all 3 are good models which are reliable and pull well . There’s not much to chose between them . The Bachmann’s are not the “modified “ hall but the original engine . The Bachmans are not Mainline but have proper mechanics . I recall the Bachman being compared favourably with a Mitchell kit built version in MRJ and that’s high praise . Re the Hornby model , I particularly wanted one with the small :3, 500 gallon tender . I seem to recall a thread which debated whether this is one of Hornby’s best . I think it is a cracking model .

The sliding traverser.

This shows the twin beams with a block of wood sandwiched and diagonal bracing . The sliding traverser rests on top . You can see the top of the Wickes cupboard unit .

The ruler stands against one of the beams painted black . See following

I’m sorry my clumsy verbal shorthand has created some confusion . Barry is a polymath - expert modeller both mechanical and scenic; author , video presenter ; artist and mentor . He promoted the twin beam baseboard system . Basically two sheets of plywood separated by blocks of wood . It gives strong , lightweight structures which resist warping . I hope the following photos may make it clear .I made my plywood sides about 4 and a half inches deep to allow for point motors .

I am sorry my clumsy verbal shorthand has created some confusion. Barry is a polymath: expert modeller both mechanical and scenery: weathering guru; author: artist: video presenter etc. He promoted a system of baseboard construction which uses two "beams ": basically two plywood strips sandwiching blocks of wood. The structure is strong, lightweight and resists warping. I chose to make my strips about 4 and a half inches deep to allow for point motors and I have taken photos to illustrate the construction but I am having difficulties accessing RMweb on my phone. Please bear with me and they may/will follow. Ken

About 10 years ago , I used Wickes basic cupboard uniits to support my baseboards in a shed . I left the worktops off and built Barry Norman style double beam units to go on top . This gave good access to install wiring from underneath.I actually did the wiring as I laid track . I would position track , mark it ; drill holes for wire , solder wire to the track ; glue track in position and then run the wiring to the control panel . The combination has worked well and I use the space under the baseboards as storage . On one side I have boxes of rolling stock and the other cassettes with cuts of wagons and coaches . The cupboards line each side of my shed and I built double beam baseboards at each end to give a continuous run . The left hand and end boards have scenery but the right hand has a sliding traverser. In summary, cupboard units gave me relatively cheap , easily height adjustment , a firm base and useful storage space . Disadvantages ; limited access if there are wiring problems . I’ve had one or two wiring issues in 10 years but nothing that can’t be overcome. Hope this helps . Ken

Great and thanks again . My Gran’s road had gas light street lamps with little clock work timers to switch on and off the main supply . A pilot light burned all the time , so good memories . Her 2 up 2 down terraced house had gas light only downstairs and candles upstairs until the late 1950 s . It made Coronation Street look posh ! I have been to Versailles … what a contrast . Thanks for your patience . Best wishes Ken

Thanks Johnster for a comprehensive reply . I’m also interested in street lights , particularly gas lights suitable for the1930s to 1950s . I think you mentioned hexagonal platform and swan neck yard lamps ? Gaugemaster did bargain packs but they are showing out of stock . Thanks for your help . Ken

Thanks Fran . I await delivery of my 2 and will explore further . I really appreciate the time and effort you put into researching and your courtesy in replying to ( daft) enquiries . Ken

Great stuff , very atmospheric. Johnster , you mention working lights . Where did you get them , please ? Gaugemaster’s web site says “ out of stock “. Thanks . Ken

Mine arrived yesterday in poly bag with reminder to renew subscription which I will do today . We had company, so I had to wait 5 nerve shredding hours before I could get my fix of MRJ . Aaaah . A pleasure delayed ……

Fran optimistically reading between the lines ( and not expecting a recommendation) is there a possibility of conversion to EM gauge ? I’m thinking you have allowed for clearance under the splashers etc . Thanks . Ken Thanks

I had a Hornby King Arthur renamed and numbered to “Camelot “. Absolutely no sign of previous details and the new were professionally and neatly applied .It was done years ago to the same standard as Hornby .I can’t recall the price but it was worth it in terms of my satisfaction.. I couldn’t match the quality if I tried myself . It was returned in a nice box . No connection.

I have preordered 2 . One in late BR livery will be displayed . The other in GWR shirt button is for use . How to explain the purchase of 2 to Mrs.L ? She used to be a teacher and when questioning why pupil A hit B , A replied “My hand slipped “. “ But B says you hit him twice .” “ My hand slipped twice “.