brack

It's on Raymond walley's website , there's a few photos of building the kit. Apparently the MR meat van is almost identical to the corpse wagon. Make of that what you will!

Does this help? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53719-2-4-0-isle-of-wight-beyer-peacock-tank-loco-from-the-1870s/

Also when micron resolution is quoted its normally the most favourable of the 3 axes (in fud and FD, x and y resolution is slightly different to z, can't remember which is better, but it has an input, together with support material distribution into why you get the odd print that's not quite as good - they've chosen the wrong orientation).

Bertiedog - they're worth a try for £2. I found they worked fine. If you're after very small bevels gizmoszone has 2 very useful 1.5mm bore sets http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi?product=Other_gear&user4=Miter_gear;ppinc=1a Obviously there's some really nice brass or bronze gears available but at a rather high price. Given the standard of the rest of my "engineering" the plastic ones don't pose me any problems in terms of tolerances...

Suitable bevel gears are easily available. http://www.motionco.co.uk/pair-bevel-gears-mod16-bore-p-146.html?search=bevel%20gears I used these with one of the gear motors above in my 00 scale 3d printed y7. Runs well, plenty of torque (pulled a 16t mineral with 600g of lead balanced on it). You just use a saw to remove the collar from the rear of one gear so it fits within the frames, then ream it out to 1/8" if using Gibson axles. Photos on: http://brackmodels.weebly.com/lner-y7-in-4mm-scale.html Suitable bevel gears are easily available. http://www.motionco.co.uk/pair-bevel-gears-mod16-bore-p-146.html?search=bevel%20gears I used these with one of the gear motors above in my 00 scale 3d printed y7. Runs well, plenty of torque (pulled a 16t mineral with 600g of lead balanced on it). You just use a saw to remove the collar from the rear of one gear so it fits within the frames, then ream it out to 1/8" if using Gibson axles. Photos on: http://brackmodels.weebly.com/lner-y7-in-4mm-scale.html

Or build a few more to replace the pacers. Sad how a 112 year old railcar is technically somewhat more advanced in terms of comfort, ride noise, transmission and weathertight doors...

Looks good, surprising how a couple of little changes make a big difference in character.

Short/long handrail knobs I think, to give straight handrails. The left hand side has some sort of pipe/rod inside it I suspect. Looking at the two preserved examples plus older photos I came to the conclusion that there were quite a few differences, even the location of the blower pipe on the preserved locos seems to have changed after overhauls. Some of the y7s even had a continuous handrail round both sides and arched over the smoke box. Given your loco is somewhat altered I'd say whatever you choose ought to look fine!

Mine just wedged on. The idea was to put a bit of wire through the little hole in the tab at front and rear to lock it to the chassis, but the friction fit alone was more than solid enough to handle it on mine. You've opted for a more conventional fitting method which should be very solid. I am a little jealous of you fitting a flywheel in. But having seen your other builds and bashes I'm looking forward to the finished model. Will it be a br/lner/NER loco or in private ownership?

Watching with interest, only 3 or 4 of these have been printed so far. You're not exactly making it easy for yourself with the chassis/wheels/gears combination, but it looks like it should work ok. On mine I used a rather over geared motor (nearly 400:1). It was a bit too slow but ran well and pulled 600g of lead balanced on a 16t mineral wagon. I didn't test it further as I figured it was more than powerful enough. I never had any pickup troubles, but the compensation ought to help. Any questions just ask. I assume you've read the instructions/photos on my website (shapeways don't let you add enough in the of instructions so I put them on my own page).

1/72 native figures of various empire locations aren't too hard to find. If you're close to a military modelling scale you're generally ok. Try building a Sudanese layout in 1/48 (I got part way, but had scrounged 3 figures after much scouring) Most of the military kits and figures in 1/48 are for planes, and they don't need much in the way of colonial civilians. 1/32 would also be a good scale for figures.

Have a look here: http://voie60vapeurvive.pagesperso-orange.fr/Real_Mallet1_ANG.html There were about 30 0660 mallets supplied to Morocco. One ended up at pithiviers rebuilt as an ugly tank loco which didn't work well, 8 went to Benin where they lasted to 1948 and I assume the rest were scrapped. The kitson Meyers came after the mallets, I think there were 8 or 9 of them? At one point there was 1700km of 60cm gauge in Morocco. Would love to see a good book on the subject.

I have a roughly 33% finished cad for a 3D printed body for the German liliputbahn Pacifics (the older ones, rather than the 3 less attractive ones which made it to the uk). In 1/43.5 it fits the minitrix Pacific chassis spot on (O9). However I sort of got bored and haven't had much time to get on with stuff lately. The tender is longer than the n gauge tender chassis, with the loco length not much changed. The body/boiler size is significantly bigger though.

Speaking of silhouette software troubles, does anyone else find arcs or curves get messed up sometimes when importing from dxf? I draw a lot of my stuff using rhino 3D (learned 3D cad before 2d and still find the interface much more intuitive), then export the surfaces as dxf. They open perfectly in Inkscape or illustrator, but silhouette studio garbled the curves half the time.

Itd be worth knowing which solvents and adhesives you used though. I have been keeping watch on the thread for some time - it'll be a very interesting model when finished.

You made a new floor from laminated styrene (I think that's what you said). Is there a chance of solvents or vapours from the laminating or from fixing it in place have caused the warping? I used uhu to secure lead shot inside a 3D printed dome once, never had any trouble with it and 3D prints before, but somehow it made the dome explode - I suspect it formed a skin/seal at the base of the dome so the vapours couldn't diffuse off into the air and the higher than normal concentration had the effect. I wonder if some slightly unusual interaction caused your wagon shape shifting.

Yes, there seem to have been several appeals to Lord Armstrong! Also regarding the diesel locos.

Bamburgh didn't have a railway, though the north Sunderland railway had proposed an extension from sea houses to bamburgh. There was an industrial ng line around budle bay.

Out of interest does anyone know of a service for cnc milling small single parts who have reasonable prices - I can easily draw things in cad, but if there was somewhere I could upload say a set of con rods to, throw them a few quid and get them in the post a few days later. Most sites I've found are aimed at rather more complex jobs and are priced accordingly.

I have a cool melt glue gun which (whilst still hot enough to not wish to touch with hands) happily glues extruded polystrene foam and foamboard without melting anything.

thanks for the useful replies, I'll have a little think. Probably put this one on the back burner and work on other projects for a little bit.

Does anyone know of a drawing of the Kerr Stuart diesel built for Ravenglass and currently on the Foxfield Railway? I wonder if it'd be close enough to the Atlas O scale plymouth which you can pick up cheaply?

It is much nicer isnt it, the leading bogie gets rid of the leaning forward aspect of the 242t. Excellent work. 444t next? Extended out the back as well as the front.

I've been thinking about the same thing Mike - I don't have an old pen holder, but the new one (and a 9.52mm dia scriber) arrived in the last week and I've been wondering how to sort them. I'd ordered the fatter scriber having read the specs for the collets... If it helps anyone else, the Snout's internal diameter is 5.7mm on mine. As I only bought it for scribing, I'm not so sure what to do now. Modifying the snout isn't so easy as it seems to extend back inside the holder as well as extrenally.

further to my earlier silhouette studio import rescaling issues - I've found that if I export as a R13/95 version .DXF file it scales correctly. So if anyone else has the same trouble exporting DXFsfrom Illustrator and importing them into Studio, the solution is to export to the oldest DXF format you can. Hope that helps someone out there. I've also found plasticweld seesm to be too aggressive a solvent, even on a short van (some suspiscion of bowing the sides after a week). What non-solvent glues have people found to be successful for laminating parts? I intend to try out slow setting superglue and UHU non-solvent, but any other recommendations would be handy (tried Limonene, it didn't really do anything). Also, look for a bulk plastic sheet supplier. If in the North East, Bay Plastics (just by the Tyne Tunnel) do 4' x 2' sheets of 0.25mm or 0.5mm HIPS (ie plasticard) for £1.20 or so each.