hallmodelspares

The version I know of silver king Hornby did had the older style tender with a dummy drive tender it shared with the railroad scotsman. If it is that one have the remains of it clips at the front and has 2 screws located inside near the corridor side. If it is the other super detail one all you might get is grey base tender frame possibly with the wheels. I would ask the mentioned above

If you have patience fox transfers do a complete diy blank panel with lettering so you can make up a correct set or ask railtec and see if he will do a set for you as he encourages custom

I reseached & found Railtec carry 7mm-6330 toad transfers white lettering on black panel £8.50 per set. You could also use the sheet 4216 for allocations £3.90 He even has images of them so you can see them

Wizard models using the Comet model range have a double chimney listed for class 5 but looks like the one used on the Hornby duchess detail pack they made

New modellers shop is alright but you have to be aware that a lot of items they are out of stock and because some are no longer used it is doubtful they will be able to get them again. Brushes and springs are not too bad, just a case of looking around, its often better to buy a few at once.

Best would be to ask and see in wanted section if anyone who has a broken one but with brushes etc. Another source was suggested in a previous Q&A on this website Branchlines and Roxey Mouldings. The branchline website seems out of date and more of a blog of sorts. Roxey mouldings have something similar but as to be of use is unclear. Dc kits was also recommended so worth asking. The forum listed 'Anchorage D11 Motor' comes up in forum search function (that is how it is spelt)

Maybe a way round it might be to do a survey to see if there is subject or modelling topic to see what items are common amoung modellers then see if there is some which people are doing or have done. Like say a model of a engine/shed or a village small town and go through entries and see if that starts enspiring people.

The only way they are of value is boxed mint, anything else like loose with marks and dings as above mentioned. Information on your wrenn's condition would help too. Now considered too short and poor models compared to newer types. Only thing that might sell them is they look alright on a layout which is small. Hated the southern and LMS examples

Nice ralcar kit Gibbo675, shame these are now so difficult to obtain they were good for the money. I was too late to build a collection of these and it seems SPM is going similar. Some really out of stock has been left so

Most solid chassis were made up out of inch thick steel on diesels. very often the buffer beam was solid and important to the structural strength overall. I agree on the idea and the pic is 3 sheets sandwiched about 1.8mm -2mm thick I think would look alright and would help highlight just how solid it was.

The Pig Iron Wagon was used for a long time many passing through Br to private use. A number still around at least into the 1990's, Axle boxes vary on the 10" wheelbase with starndard plate wagon type and roller bearing types. Variants can have different bodies with different numbers of verticle ribs along the wagon sides. Some were rebodied or used heavily and ended up with buckled sides buffer head wise a small round wagon type and either tapered or straight shanked. A variant also with alterations for handing hot iron billets or pigs was made and the design allowed water to be used in cooling the floor/pig iron and was heavy steel plate. Some these found use with modification in wales carrying rolled coils of steel from the foundry/forge. One hot Iron Pig survives awaiting restoration on the nene valley. As above Mark points out many good pics and info there

Bearings are really important assemble with 1 each end with the motor inbetween in the brass inserts. It will not run without them and make sure the magnet is strong too.

As a slight mod in 1990's Hornby fitted type 6 and 7 ringfields both steam and diesels with a grey spur main gear which is not plastic it is in fact alloy cast similar to actual metal on Hornby chassis etc. The problem is it expands easily loosing grip and will fall off the shaft. This was resolved after the update from 2000 onwards with the introduction of pickups on the motors and brass gears being fitted as standard then. The 5 pole had quality issues with the wheels as they redesigned the wheels to interchange gears between 3 and 5 pole units but they more often failed due to plastic quality and very often fell apart with little use.

I would also check any motor mounts to see if there is any play which may move the worm enough to cause a slight rub of the motor worm on the casing when running. as its able to move well I would rule out the gear being the cause

Lima also did a transformer carrying wagon too

They have a small nut on each side of axles holding the coupling rods on so 6 in total. Make sure you take apart in a way you do not lose any parts

There was 2 others who did clear sides for mk1 coaches. DC Kits (website for kit parts is a bit inaccurate, things are given as being in stock when not and others say in develpoment to be made as body only kits some with eye watering prices). To be fair you can speak to Charlie at DC Kits and check what is available and at least leave a list and details as he is very busy. The other is Coopercraft which seems to of gone down a cliff. I would have ordered some emus but southern pride are out of stock of them

It could be done with lettering transfers by fox, but might take a long time to do but would make it different and really personal. I would paint the area with lettering for effect a black and gloss the surface for lettering. Another way would be to ask a decal maker to produce them.. could be an interesting sideline!

Even so x9289 is not referenced as a spare from a loco whereas x6354 is on the A1 tornado service sheet

x6354 is from the A1 tornado model spare. x9289 should be the one as it is described as fitting rolling stock

There is 2 clips, 1 either side of the front end you should be able release. can be done also by taking the chassis off from the metal footplate and underneath should be those clips for the front. this loco the chassis clips in aswell as mentioned above the spring

Looked over your questions and here is some of my own thoughts Of my six split chassis engines, 3 have some sort of issue. (The other three - Bachmann A4 Golden Eagle and Lord Nelson Sir Martin Frobisher, and Mainline Hinton Manor, are all pretty good.) Advice/info desired. A4s fairly good run them sensibly they last well. do watch doing wheel spins or for any sudden stops as that can help work them centre axles too much. Lord Nelsons had a few at least 6 different ones all good and still so when sold on. Manor had to rebuild with spare wheels i had the axles were starting to go. *Mainline Patriot "Sir Frank Ree" - Ringfield-style motor. Slightly bumpy on the track. I've read of something called "jerky wheel syndrome" affecting split chassis types - could this be that? It otherwise runs...okay. Would also check the wheels are not suffering mazak rot. this can affect them in many ways. Some the wheel tread can warp, Causing the wheelset to wedge causing the motor to struggle it free. Also look at spokes on the driving wheels, they can distort and cause raised sections which rub on the loco con rods *Mainline Royal Scot "Scots Guardsman" - Ringfield-style motor. As mention magnet is fine I suggest checking the spring covers on the inside a clean and try the screws around the motor block, there should be 2 screws either end. Sometimes they need adjustment to secure together enough to run. Make sure the chassis bottom plate brake shoes do not touch the wheels espically if rebuilt as I rebuilt the green patriot model with peter spare axles centres. These made the wheels sit slightly wider than the mainline centres. I would also check the gears have no chips or splits. The mainline body should fit the Bachmann version of the chassis. Not sure of recent Dcc version? Bachmann 43xx - Cam motor and weird plastic/brass block. This intermittently runs very well and not at all - i.e. runs smoothly and looks great, and then stops and doesn't pick up at all (with no continuity through the wheels). This has, it turns out, a cracked central axle by the gear - would that stop continuity? I would of thought it needs a clean replace the axle from Bachmann around 3 pound from them with post for the set of three (if you know it use the model reference number ie 365-11a when ordering which should give you the right parts) Hammer is tempting but not necessary here is my 10 year running scot (had new drive axles once and sorted a loose bogie wheel rim) but I like it a lot and is different and in a way better than the Hornby tender drive 4-6-0's finish and detail

My mistake then, lot of people put just Hornby county not mentioning the wheel arrangement of loco. In your case the 1000 at the header I overlooked I'm sorry. Anyway to remove if it is wedged in with glue best try the heat method It worked when I had to remove side weights slotted in a Hornby loco shell which were 'glued' with a black tacky like substance

Just to clear up the loco is it the 4-6-0 county or the 4-4-0 county by Hornby?

In GWR days many of the class in green were turned out in a mixture of lined and unlined not really a set layout for the class & also the same for saints/manor/county 4-6-0 classes. Maybe a case of saying Br early black lined they often lost the lining and looked unlined when run and not looked after