ianLMS

It used to be the Corn Exchange which hosted many decent heavy rock bands during the 80's. Spent many an hour head-banging against the speaker in my mispent yoof!

Just signed up! Looking forward to learning where i have been goimg wrong all these years!!!

Thank you Ian. I think i found the list on the disc with the instructions and pics. The photo below doesnt do the kit justice as im not that skilled but here is the current status. I am building both at the same time so progress is slower. I am working on the floor for the 2nd kit next before moving on to the next stage.

I cannot confirm nor deny that any teddy bears were hurt during the making of any model railways

I have heard teddy bear fur is a great material to use for replicating grassy areas. Glue it fur side down, rip off backing (if it has any) and trim to required length, probably with a pair of mens hair/beard trimmers. I believe a few layouts on here, or featured in magazines that have used it to great effect. Topped off with a variety of scatter material I am sure it will look quite convincing. Good luck Ian

This is the stuff I use if I want to brush on a matt varnish. Excellent results as long as you use it sparingly and its very quick drying. https://www.amazon.com/Av-Vallejo-liquid-Varnish-55ml/dp/B002Z8F2R6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2IY055RXB6QFE&dchild=1&keywords=vallejo+acrylic+matt+varnish&qid=1602491701&sprefix=vallejo+acrylic+matt%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-2 Ian

I have now made a start on the Palethorpes vans, and I have to say, what a joy they are to build (so far anyway!). The quality of the etches are superb, the detail is exceptional and the instructions are by far the easiest to follow and highly detailed ones I have come across. The accompanying photo's really do help a lot as well. I have just finished making the removable door latches, so next up is the floor. Will order decals soon from CCT. Do you make any other etches by the way? Thank you and will post pics soon. Ian

Almost finished with the loco to complete the Sheffield set. Waiting for new wheels and the paint shop! Hornby body with a few mods on a Comet chassis.

Good luck with the mive! I dread the day when i have to dismantle the layout.

Quick update. The body is now pretty much complete other than painting/lining etc and I am working on the chassis. Just waiting for new wheels from Wizard (the non-insulated ones that came with the GEM kit didn't have the crankpin holes drilled out and my attempt completely ruined the one side. The insulated ones were pre-drilled so I have at least one side I can connect up to! Gearbox etc will be built once I get the wheels and can test it all runs freely before adding the power etc.

At last I have managed to complete my rake of BSL/Comet coaches to accompany my Jamieson Jubilee on a trip around the layout. The final coach I built was a Comet 50' Kitchen Car D1912 and goes nicely with the four BSL coaches. I wish I had room for a more prototypical formation, but at the moment, 5 coaches is about the maximum my layout can handle. Maybe one day I will have room to build a 30' layout, but I think the wife may have something to say about that!

Ive tried various pick up arrangements, usually fitted to all driving wheels using phospher bronze strips, dcc concepts type, or nickel silver in both .33 and .45mm on standard copper clad board. Works fine analogue, very intermittent dcc using zimo chips. Some locos run fine, some dont. Im positive its something not quote right when its all reassemblef such as motion gear not perfectly smooth etc. I am building a comet chassis now so will check each stage and make sure its perfect before moving to the next stage and will report back.

I think the easy answer is if u like building kits, stay on analogue. I will try a couple more kits on dcc and if its still not happening i will sell the dcc stuff and revert back to analogue. Or build a second layout lol!!!

As I mentioned earlier, current collection is a real problem when building kits to work with DCC. Its not impossible, just requires a bit more effort to get things perfect and adding as many pick up points as possible. My next kit I plan on building a "live chassis" to see if that makes it any easier. Just need to be super careful that the chip is very well isolated.

So, after measuring the white metal GEM chassis that was included in the kit, i now find myself quietly chuckling to myself in the corner. The axle holes in the white metal chassis are exactly the same as the Comet ones. ie 40mm (10ft) rather than the correct 38mm (9'6") that it should be. So, I now have a couple of options! A. Don't worry about the 2mm, get another Comet chassis and I will have 2 not-quite accurate but reasonably looking models (slightly more expensive option) B. Buy a set of Alan Gibson mainframes, cut'n'shut the GEM footplate to get rid of the 2mm, and have at least one more accurate model (slightly more technically challenging option) Open to votes!! Thanks Ian

Similar question but referencing how to cut a curved aluminium coach roof squarely? I used my metal mitre box and razor saw and it was well off square by the time i finished. Any suggestions as i dont recall seeing a curved engineers square anywhere so i can scribe a true line? Thanks Ian

I found these in my spares box. The left column I believe are the ones you are looking for, however, only two have complete backs. The rest were damaged during removal. The r/h ones are possibly Bachmann and appear narrower. The couplings look about right. PM me with you address if you still want them. Thanks Ian

I will see what i can find in my spares box tonight and let you know.

I will pre-order the book now, and keeping my fingers crossed that Mr York can come up with a cunning plan to get us all there. Happy to donate to the cause, or make tea, wash up etc.....whatever you need!

I have a book on Midland Compounds and have scanned the pages referring to tenders. So, as i am building 1088 (at Millhouses in 1939), it looks like a Fowler type tender will be right.

Really impressive photo's of the layout, showing every fine piece of detail you painstakingly made and placed to perfection. Well done of the 1.2 milestone. A wonderful achievement. Well, if the layout cant go out due to the covid situation, you could always invite several members of RMWeb in small groups of 5 for a private viewings!!!! or start up some model tutoring lessons, similar to what Pendon puts on. I bet there would be several folks who would love to learn the skills and techniques that you have developed!! Sign me up!! Ian

I started with a brass horse-box and Comet coach before progressing to a loco. The first loco was mostly white-metal so building the brass kits didn't really help much!!! I think the only difference really is practicing on and potentially messing up a £20-30 wagon is a much easier pill to swallow than messing up a £100+ loco kit. The one thing I struggle with it getting sufficient pick-up for the decoder on a DCC kit-built chassis. They are much more sensitive than analogue and I often have to add pick ups to a tender, make sure the wheels turn with zero resistance and add much more weight to the loco. I also ensure every part of the wheels/track are super-clean, otherwise they run really rough (but run fine on analogue without a decoder). I will be interested to see how you get on and how you manage it as I still haven't mastered it even after 10+ loco's. Looking forward to seeing the build progress Ian

Body modifications to date; Removed moulded detail such as boiler bands, handrails etc except rivets, wash-plugs Fitted handrails to cab side and back of cab, along boiler (secured with split-pins), smokebox side and front (.45mm brass rod) Exhaust valve moved to left and replaced (Alan Gibson w/1mm brass rod & tube) Lamp irons installed on front end and on smokebox door (.45mm brass rod) Cabside numbers removed (soft fibre glass scratch brush) Fowler dome and chimney (Alan Gibson) Replaced Ramsbottom safety with Fowler type (Markits with old WM base) Replaced cab roof hatch (scrap brass) New reversing lever (made from spare sprue) new Westinghouse pump (Markits) w/.33mm brass rod as pipes) New buffers (Alan Gibson sprung type) Removed moulded Coupling "hook" from buffer and installed coupling plate (Brassmasters) ready for Screw coupling (MJT etched) Replaced moulded boiler bands with Wizard coach roof tape (0.5mm) To do: Remove manufacturer plates under smokebox (replace with etched ones from 247 Developments) Prime Re-spray Black Re-number Fit decals, coupling, glazing, safety valves etc Paint cab interior and backhead Build chassis (kind of important I suppose) Find/build appropriate tender Anything else you folks can think of? Thanks Ian

The pic here shows the LMS plate at the top, with the capacity plate lower down. I would ignore the IZ99 plate (not sure what that is) and unless modelling steam in latter years, the overhead electric signs aren't needed either (i don't believe and stand to be corrected). I get etched ones from 247 Developments and they do various plates with numbers and capacities so useful for any LMS tender.

Hoping to get time at the weekend to finish fitting the handrails and other details so will provide an update early next week. I am also finishing off my Comet 50ft kitchen car so will be busy assembling the freshly painted parts ready for the lining and decals to be added. Have a lovely weekend! Ian