ianLMS

My underlay was purely for aesthetics so I could try to get a shoulder to the ballast. To reduce the noise from loco's, I have read on here that you will probably get more benefit from putting in sound deadening material (foam/polystyrene/egg boxes etc) under the board in the voids between the cross members. I can see how hollow space under baseboards probably amplifies the sound so it looks like a good theory! Carpet on the floor probably helps absorb sound as well. Failing that, tell the family to turn up the TV or get back to vacuuming - no longer an issue!!!! Ian

here is a link to a picture of Swaffham Prior station I believe, just down the road from Castle Acre, so probably suitable for CA. Uniform suggest Edwardian so may be around the right era. Note the ballast appears quite fine etc. Several other good pics in Bing Images or Google Images if you search Swaffham Railway. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=4J7FyPgZ&id=6CAD13EFF4FFBA82FB1E2A9BC9C379A7AC6F272F&thid=OIP.4J7FyPgZw-7nMBRubFus9gEsDH&q=pictures+of+swaffham+railway+station&simid=607986797586091028&selectedindex=31&mode=overlay&first=1 Ian

Here are pictures of the ballast on my layout using the "scale 4mm" stuff - it has a reddish brown tint to it which I quite like and probably suitable for layouts in North Yorks/Cumbria area. I will check tonight and let you know what colour I purchased. Fixed it down using the standard pva/water/washing up liquid mix - however, I have found that Duluxe Materials Ballast Bond is superb stuff!! Ready mixed, just spray water on the ballast and dribble the solution over it and walk away for a few hours. Very strong and no issues with mixing a solution that's too weak, allowing the ballast to become loose again! trust me - been there, done that! As with all my ballast, ground cover I weather it using a variety of weathering powders, pigments, washes and ash/coal dust. The wagon sidings was ballasted using ash from my open fire covered over a DAS clay layer pushed in between the sleepers and across the tracks. This may be more suitable for CA and the period you are modeling. Stone in this part of the country tends to be flint or chalk - neither much use for ballasting track with but great for buildings. Any granite/limestone type materials had to be shipped/carted in I guess. A few pics here might help with your search: http://www.suffolktouristguide.com/Lost-Railways-of-Suffolk-and-East-Anglia.asp - the one of Worstead (nr Norwich/Wroxham) looks like it is ballasted with stone chippings and the pic circa's around 1905.

I do not know the material, but I do know that its colour-fast unlike other ballasts I have tried. Maybe a quick e-mail to them would answer your question?

I used standard cork sheet, but it doesn't give much depth as its quite thin. I do like the look of the Woodland Scenics trackbed with pre-chamfered edges. Might be pricey for a large layout and no idea of longevity seeing as it's foam. Cork lasts a very, very long time, wheras I guess the foam will degrade over time - especially if solvent glue is used. For ballast, try looking at Greenscene - I use their "scale sized" OO gauge ballast and I am very happy with it. Supposedly, they actually went to various sites, measured the actual ballast stones in the location and graded chippings to match the scale. They do a full range of scales, sizes, colours etc and an easy to use applicator. Great for other scenic materials as well and attend various shows. no affiliation, blah, blah, blah! www.green-scenes.co.uk Layout is coming along very nicely there Sir - great to see the progress and really looking forward to watching it develop!!! I wish my woodworking skills were as good!!! Ian

Morning Tony - I used 50mm diameter pipe so I could mount the Neg Ion Gen to a piece of wood to secure it in place. Stops it from flopping around when you are shaking the applicator. The gen on its own should slip into a 45mm dia pipe without too much trouble as well. The Chinese ones might be smaller than the one from Australia so you might find it will fit in a section of white plumbing waste pipe ok.

Morning Tony - yes it was the Oakley one sent over from Australia. I had purchased a Neg Ion Gen from Ebay (China) but the wiring was different and I couldn't fathom it out so I just decided to ge the ones that Luke recommended. I have attached a picture of the body. The grey pipe and fittings were ordered off Ebay. I cut the middle of the peanut tub lid out and fitted the mesh from a sieve, securing it with a hot glue gun. Soldered a wire with connector to it, and that connected to the wire coming from the Neg Ion Gen. The second picture shows the result from my cheap home made static grass applicator using 4mm grass from War World Scenics. Cheers. Ian

I built a static grass applicator using a Neg ION and find it great to use. I had tried the tea-strainer type before and wasn't that impressed so followed Luke Towans clip on You-Tube (link below), got myself a section of 50mm tube, an old peanut container, old sieve and ordered the Neg ION Gen from Australia. So simple to put together, I have two - one works off a 9v battery and the other plugs into a 12v adapter. For the 9v verion, I used an old tube of sealant for the body, a beaker and again, mesh from the same sieve. No issues with applying 2mm, 3mm, 4mm or 6mm grass to a variety of surfaces. Total cost was around £25 as I had to buy 2 Neg ION Gens. plus the pipe etc. The Peco one is supposed to be good, at around £50 is not badly priced either compared to the Noch ones etc. Part one is here: Also, read this thread on RMWeb: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64167-static-grass-tips-and-techniques/ Ian

If Peco had BH track/points available 5 years ago, I would have definitely gone down that route. My track-building skills are completely unknown, and to try to build around 24 points by hand was not an option I felt I could embrace. I looked at the option of SMP R-T-P BH track but again, it was the points that stopped me as I would need to build them myself, they wouldn't fit in my space and the pre-made ones were not cost effective. Decent SMP BH track with Peco points would have looked very odd and defeated the purpose of trying to get more authentic looking track. So to me, Code 75 FB was the only option. Now I have laid my Peco track and points, ballasted, weathered and wired them up, it is extremely doubtful that I will rip it all up to replace it with new BH track. It will wait until I decide to build a new layout. By then, hopefully the unknown will be known and the issues ironed out. My layout is a scenic 12 x 8ft roundy-roundy with a condensed track plan that looks like a large twin track train-set plan from the old Hornby books, but to me, its still a model railway and not a train-set - I enjoy all aspects of modeling, including the electronics, DCC, scenery, kit building, scratchbuilding and I try to portray 1930's LMS in the North West. Therefore, am I not a hybrid of both train-set man and historical-man, which, will probably apply to large percentage of us on RMWeb? This is where this new Peco track really appeals - Simply put, its for the average modeller who wants to have more authentic looking track, readily available in the local shop/online, requiring minimal time/skill to install, but enhances the look of their railway regardless of track plan, size or operating methods. Many high quality layouts at exhibitions and in the modeling press etc use Code 100 or Code 75 FB track and no-one bats an eye lid. They are still jaw-droppingly good layouts, so this to me, is a great advancement regardless of "un-prototypical dimensions or not being exact replicas of the real thing". This will mean in the future, we will have many more great looking layouts now with OO BH track instead of FB.

Here is a pic I found on Bing Images of a brick built viaduct in Manchester showing the brick colours and mortar courses. I would say if the arches are high, the green algae would only go up the side of the support a short way. The rest of the arch would match the viaduct. Moss might grow right under the arch depending in which way the viaduct faced I guess. I would re-spray the viaduct using a red oxide colour and then apply a light colour for the mortar. Some use talc or I have used Humbrol weathering powders. You can then dry brush different shades to large areas of brick work to break up the monotonous look and then pick out the odd brick if you really need to. Then a covering with various weathering powders or washes would help - browns or very thinned black would help. I am no expert in painting brickwork, but there are several experts on here. Have a look in the "Show us your Scratchbuilt" in Scenery and Structures and you will soon find plenty of examples. Best way is to practice on a sample sheet until you are happy with the results. Google or Flickr will give you loads of photographs to use as reference. Good luck. Ian

Hi there Huw - I have used No More Nails without any issue on most of my layout - it will adhere the cork or track tot he plactic viaduct base, but you need to spread it thin. When it goes off it sets rock hard so no flexibility. PVA should stick, but you may need to rough up the surface of the plastic first. Deluxe Products offer a great range of adhesives for all kinds of uses. Take a look at their website and I am sure you will find one suitable. Their card glue is exceptionally good and may also be suitable for this purpose. Here is a picture of track going over a viaduct which may help you. I found it on Bing Images. A quick search and you will get no end of pictures to use as reference. It looks like there is still a shoulder going across the viaduct. Therefore, I would run cork all the way across the viaduct and use No More Nails, PVA or Deluxe glues to stick it down and then stick the track to the cork with PVA and ballast as usual. Double sided tape is another possibility, but it will lose its adhesiveness as soon as you spread the watered down PVA over the ballast. Let us know how you get on. Ian

Well, I tested everything and discovered I had a short somewhere - after an hour of cursing, checking connections throughout the new wiring, disconnecting and reconnecting the points etc I discovered the fault - two old wires hanging down from the track which were an old section connection from the analogue days were hanging down and had managed to attract each other and join themselves together. Opposites attract I guess and as soon as I parted them, all was good and no further shorts. I then discovered two point motors refused to fire. Again, after carrying out various tests I narrowed it down to a faulty ADS8FX board. Both points were from the same board, from the same end. A common problem I understand with ADS8FX's. I soon overcame this by joining two points together so they both fire from the same output. All 32 points now work and I can operate them from my control panel switches, the Multimaus handset or from my tablet. The LED's respond regardless of which operating system, however, when I use the manual switch or the Multimaus to operate, it doesn't update the plan on the tablet. The other issue is when I power down or have a short in the system (loco derail etc) it turns the LED's off and I have to fire every point in order to re-set them. Bit of a pain but I will live with it for now. The new ADS-8SX ones have memory so the LED's restore back to its last position - they are more pricey so will be a while before I decide to upgrade!! Had a great demolition session last night and completely ripped up all the scenery from the back left corner, removing the pub, the station masters house and the original tunnel entrance. Currently planning a new scenic area as the tunnel entrance will shift further forward and will be extending the hill. I will also be planting some new Scalescenes buildings - another row of terraced houses, an old petrol/workshop garage and a blacksmiths. Will be a while before I will complete them so I will upload pics as and when I can.

Thanks John and great insight into the new product - I will see how I get on with my ADS8FX's. I finished wiring up all 32 point motors, plus switches plus LED's without too many issues - 2 outputs on the end of one board failed. Got around it by connecting two points together from the same output to release two spare slots on the other 3 boards. Seems to be a common fault with the ADS8FX's. It is annoying that I have to reset all the points for the LED's to light up correctly each time I get a short on the track or power down. We will see how long I can persevere until I decide to get the ADS8SX's!! or just swap the motors over for the Cobalt IP's!! Ian

Good luck with the new airbrush and compressor - lots of tips on You-tube in and the press to help you use it. The additional items I purchased to help were; cleaning bottle, cleaning aerosol spray, twin airbrush stand, battery paint mixer, airbrush cleaning brushes, quick release nozzle for the hose, rotating table and stand (Tamiya), spray booth (Expo tools), Tamiya masking tape, spare mixing bottles, disposable gloves and a respirator face mask. The most important things to a successful airbrush job I picked up is mixing the paint thoroughly/thinning it correctly, and keeping the airbrush clean! Good ventilation helps especially if you are spraying indoors. I am now confined to the conservatory as my spraying of thinned enamel and cleaning the airbrush in the spare bedroom seriously upset the domestic authorities!!! Let us know how you are getting on. As a complete beginner, I managed to spray this large model of a fuel tank with enamels. Its about 12 inches long and made from a 4" waste pipe.

I have the Sparmax Max 4 and AS186 Compressor abd very happy with both. I am a beginner and can honestly say they are very easy to use and work with. I think the airbrush was around £45 and Compressor around £70. Eileens Emporium was a huge help choosing the right brush. I also see BRM has an offer for subscribers for the Sparmax 4.

Hi JST - I am in the process of wiring up 32 point motors to 4 ADS8FX's. I have completed the wiring for the momentary switches and the LED's on my control panel and am wondering how you managed the memory loss each time you powered up? Did you manually reset each point or programme it? I plan on programming a route sequence through my z21 app which will allow me to re-set each point in order while I clean the track etc. I am hoping I can get used to it without resorting to replacing the decoders for the new ADS8SX model. Thanks Ian

A few more details to add. Could really do with gutters and downpipes, but I'm not sure how to make them. How about 4mm, 5mm or 6mm U channel for the guttering and 4, 5 or 6mm pipe for the downpipes. I believe that scales up to standard 4 or 6" guttering in "G" scale assuming the ratio is 13.5mm /ft? Quick look on google and pipe seems readily available in that size so you could try slicing one in half for the guttering??.

Good afternoon all, I have "wiring elbow" or "screwdrivers Strain" and "smouldering solder inhalation" or "intoxicating fumes syndrome" from connecting up over 70 LED lights from my control panel to my 4 AD-8SFX DCC Concepts decoders, 6 reed switches and ones to identify the selection of the programming or main track. Just 32 solenoid points to wire up now and that will complete this phase of the operation. I can then test everything to make sure all is fully operational. I just ordered a graphite block from Ebay as I have heard that this is an excellent method of cleaning track. Just need to make sure I don't bridge any insulating gaps with the resulting graphite dust! I will them move on to re-building the scenic area over the new extended fiddle yard. Not sure whether to include a river or stream this time. I do like to see a water feature on a layout so will probably re-design one back in. Once that is complete I can get back to building wagon kits, modifying and DCC'ing loco's and playing trains!!

I haven't got as far as replacing motors, or understanding gearing etc yet!!! baby steps right now. I think the next logical step after playing around with the Airfix 4F's is to build a chassis and then a whole loco - who knows where it will end!!!

To be honest, I should have researched a little more again before buying the "cheap" ADS8FX's - the latest and greatest version of the ADS8FX's apparently have memory, but are much more expensive! Now, here is another idea using the ADS8FX and the Micro-Miniatures panel. Again, not sure if this is the right thing but the experts would know. Using standard DC, the micro-miniature panel usually connects to the switch (toggle in my case) or the point motor itself, and utilises common return. The LED's know which one to light from the pulse created as the motor is fired. It also has memory and knows if a misfire has occurred or not. Very clever and a bit cheaper than the Heathcote verion. With the ADS8FX, the points are fired from their own CDU and wired independently. Would I not be able to take the wires from the Microminiatures panel and connect them to the wires coming from the ADS8FX to the point motors?, or am I mixing apples/oranges resulting in certain death of the indication panel or far worse, the ADS8FX? The reason I am keen to use these as I have 4 of them from my old DC days. Enough for all 32 points. I also have 4 ADS8FX's and sufficient LED's. Again, if I am weeing up the wrong tree, I will default to the z21 route setting option! Thank you Ian Wiring ADS8FX to Point Indicator Panel.pdf

Thank you Brian, I re-posted the same question here as I noticed my original post was in the non-DCC pages and I responded to you in that one as well. I think the easiest option right now is to use the ADS8FX and put up with the lack of memory. My Roco z21 only has power output of 3A I believe, so running 32 LED's plus loco's etc might be too much for it. Thanks Ian

Thank you both for your detailed responses and I think I will probably look for another option for the LED's. I have not used diodes before so this would definitely be new territory for me. I converted the Peco points as per Mr Lamberts and Peco's instructions for better running (removing the factory fitted wires and resoldering them, so not sure if that isolates the frogs or not. I currently have analogue 8-way point Indication boards from Micro-miniatures (https://microminiatures.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Rail-Points-Position-Indicator.html), which use 12v DC, and are activated from a pulse from the point motor through the CDU. I have removed the CDU as I am now going fully DCC and disconnected the boards. I purchased the ADS8FX from DCC Concepts but I now discover that the LED's (or Frog Polarity) function do not have a memory so I will have to re-set my points each time I turn the system off. Not convenient for 32 points. I am now thinking I can use the old analogue boards, and take the wires from the wires going to the point motors. As the ADS8FX activates them, the pulse should in theory be the same. The wiring diagram for the Micro Miniatures panel is below, along with the wiring diagram for the ADS8FX. Its the common return I am not sure about as the ADS8FX requires three independent wires to go from the board to the panel, whereas the indication panel only requires two wires, with the third being a common return. Very complicated all this electronics!! If I cant use them, I will persevere with the ADS8FX and live with re-setting them - I can easily programme a cascading route which I can activate when I power up which will re-set the points. I cannot afford to buy yet more gadgetry!! POINTS INDICATOR 8 CHANNEL INSTRUCTIONS.pdf Owners-Manual-AD-S8fx-2014.pdf

Good afternoon all, I apologise for resurrecting yet another old topic, but I cannot find the answer after extensive searching through Brian Lamberts Electrical/DCC pages (superb guidance by the way. I couldn't have wired up my layout without him!!!) nor can I find it on RMWeb. My question surrounds multiple LEDs (64 in total) being fed from 32 points on my DCC layout. Brian Lamberts shows a wiring diagram for one point, 2 LED's being fed direct from the point, but I don't fancy sending 3 wires back to the control panel for 32 points, on top of the point motor etc. Can I take a single feed from the BUS at the control panel and connect all the Anode's for the 64 LED's to that one supply, then take individual leads from the Cathode back to each frog? (I use the Gaugemaster DCC80 autofrog if that makes a difference)? If the draw is too much (32 would be lit at any one time), can I swap the BUS for 12v DC? I have attached a simple drawing of what I am taking about (.pdf is clearer). I will be using resistors as my bulbs are not 12v. Brian Lamberts link: http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC%202.html#Point (note: I am using Electrofrog points) Thank you Ian DCC Point Indication - LED Wiring.pdf

Thank you Mick. I am glad i asked the question. Best i order a couple hundred yards of wire. Much appreciated. Ian

Afternoon all. I am wiring up a ADS8FX accessory decoder to my Peco points and i am wondering if i can link all of the solenoids together on a common return the same way i did for analogue? It would save a lot of rewiring if i could. Assume i can i should be to link all 8 outputs on one board and link the 4 boards together tben out to the points. Thanks. Ian