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ianLMS

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Everything posted by ianLMS

  1. It was a very busy show and it was good to stop for a quick chat - Glad to hear the office type furniture will hopefully be available in the new year. Started work on my platelayers hut I got from the show last night - one day I will get around to posting a few pics of my efforts! Great kit, great detail and very clear instructions!
  2. Thank you - trial and error, with lots and lots of errors!!! I find I over-did the weathering especially on my engine shed. I now go very very lightly and add small amounts at a time until I think it looks right. Applying it in a controlled way produces much better results.
  3. I'm a simple man with simple techniques but will try: Slaters Plasticard - Grey Plastic Primer (Wilko's), Airbrush Railmatch GWR Light Stone Enamel, coat of Colron spirit based woodstain (Georgian Med Oak), using a brush, lightly apply light brown & dark brown Wilko's pastels (£4 for 12 colours), then using a cotton bud apply small amounts of black pastel dust and or Humbrol Smoke weathering powder. Roof - light dusting of white and smoke humbrol weathering powder mixed to provide a grey shade (leave white chunks to add light areas) Pavement - White/Brown humbrol weathering powders mixed and applied with brush, fingers etc Windows - painted using Pheonix LMS Buildings Cream via airbrush Doors - painted using Railmatch LMS Crimson Lake via airbrush. More pics on my layout thread "Jencaster" Ian
  4. Very nicely done KNP!!! really looks the part and blends in nicely.
  5. Here are pics of my scratchbuilt OO gauge LMS/LNWR station building using L-Cut creative laser cut valancing, windows, doors and stone window/door surrounds! I hope I have done your excellent product justice! Ian
  6. Purely accidental I can assure you. After finishing adding the gardens, walls, grass verge etc that lane ended up quite a bit narrower than the street, thus creating the view that the lane heads off into the distance. I'll still take the pat on the back though!!!
  7. And looking at your thread it will be a wonderful layout. I still chuckle at how the thread swings from one topic to another and the conversation that goes on is a wonder - I cant keep up half the time! You have managed to trigger something inside so many folks and provoke great discussion points and ideas providing a resource of information whilst its still a light hearted look at Edwardian past-times and model railways!
  8. Where can I get me one of those!!!! servants I mean!!
  9. Thank you kind Sir, but you can't have it - its the key to my sanity and if you take it away I will end up being committed to the local government institute - hold on, I'm already a civil servant so perhaps its too late!!!!!
  10. Ha - I don't think I could ever match your workmanship - but thank you anyway!
  11. Morning Keith and thank you! The doors were painted using Railmatch LMS Crimson Lake via an airbrush and the windows using Precision Paints LMS Buildings Cream, again using an airbrush. The stonework was painted using Railmatch GWR Buildings Light Stone. Its taken me 3 1/2 yrs to get the layout this far, and I still have a long ways to go before I can even think about the rolling stock and loco's - should see me nicely into retirement (15 years away)!!!
  12. Hi Macbear - thank you for the kind words. I found reference photographs in two books. Illustrated LMS stations 1 & 2 and Stations and Structures of the Settle & Carlisle. Both invaluable to help get an idea of the buildings. Yes, most LMS buildings were built in brick, but I prefer the look of stone for my layout, so that's what I work with. The S&C stations are far more intricate and beyond my modeling capability so I changed a few designs to suit me (fascia boards, windows etc). Any building I make is a compromise as I am not in the league of Mr Downes or Mr Robinson who are incredibly talented architectural modelers who I admire considerably. But, I love making them, I enjoy the challenge, and in my mind I improve a little bit every time I tackle something new.
  13. Here are a couple of general pics from the layout. Still lots to do!!!!
  14. Here are a few pics of my recent scratchbuild, completed last night. Its a station building, loosely based on the LNWR/LMS ones found in Buckinghamshire and on the Settle & Carlisle line. Overall I am happy with the results - few little areas I could have done better though. It is fully wired up with LED lights and interior using Scalescenes printed sheets and etched brass items from Severn Models. The model is made from 2mm card, over-layed with Slaters plasticard stone sheet. Roof tiles and ridge tiles are York Modelmaking, benches are Shires, windows and doors and window/door surrounds are laser cut offerings from LCut Creative. Guttering is 1.5mm styrene strip and downpipes are 1.5mm styrene rod both from Slaters. Weatheirng is mostly cheap pastels from Wilko's (£4 for 12 pastels) plus Humbrol weathering powders. I have yet to site it properly on the layout.
  15. Here are a few pics of my recent scratchbuild, completed last night. Its a station building, loosely based on the LNWR/LMS ones found in Buckinghamshire and on the Settle & Carlisle line. Overall I am happy with the results - few little areas I could have done better though. It is fully wired up with LED lights and interior using Scalescenes printed sheets and etched brass items from Severn Models. The model is made from 2mm card, over-layed with Slaters plasticard stone sheet. Roof tiles and ridge tiles are York Modelmaking, benches are Shires, windows and doors and window/door surrounds are laser cut offerings from LCut Creative. Guttering is 1.5mm styrene strip and downpipes are 1.5mm styrene rod both from Slaters. Weatheirng is mostly cheap pastels from Wilko's (£4 for 12 pastels) plus Humbrol weathering powders.
  16. Morning Matt - cant help much on the ballast, but I use the 00 gauge ballast from Green Scene and have been happy with it - you can weather it which helps to date it, and they do various shades. Supposedly, they measured real ballast so they could make the model ballast scale size!!! For grass tufts, there are several ways, but I know of these: 1. Buy ready-made and plant away 2. Drill holes in a piece of wood (all the way through). Place wood on metal sheets (baking sheet, large tin lid etc), apply small amount of PVA into holes on the metal sheet below and attach the static grass applicator earthing clip to baking sheet. Then shake applicator over the holes. Leave to dry, then remove the wood. You should have nice tufts which can be planted as necessary. 3. Dab PVA randomly on metal baking sheet making any shape you like. Again, just add grass from the applicator. When dry, peel off the baking sheet and glue to model. 4. Dab glue on the area you want the static grass and either use clumps and apply by hand, or use applicator and vacuum off excess grass. I am sure there are experts on here who can advise as well, these are just my suggestions. I also watch video's from Luke Towan on You-Tube who has excellent tutorials on static grass and scenic modeling. Ian
  17. They have around 5 different shades available in the store I went to - definitely Jacobean was available so hopefully your local Wilko's will have them too.
  18. Spirit based Colron located in Wilko's of all places. 1 tin of georgian medium oak purchased!!!
  19. I am pretty sure one day my finance situation will change (family planning lol) so I will fully understand the need to save hard earned cash and use ingenuity instead of ready-made!! I have also used ready to use card sheets from Barleycorn which are reasonable. These are good value, don't have too much relief and you just cut the sheet to size. www.barleycorndesigns.co.uk. They are based in Norfolk and make some very nice card kits. I've used their roof tiles on the buildings at the back of the layout where the detail is not so important.
  20. I but the 1.5mm and 2mm half-round for the guttering, and matching full round for the downpipes, sprayed black. You can introduce the downpipe bends by very quickly allowing the rod to pass through a lighter flame, then quickly bending it to shape (holding over a soldering iron might work as well). For the roof tiles, I use York Modelmaking self-adhesive tiles. They come in strips, peel off the paper and stick on over-lapping as you go - pricey, but definitely worth it. Cost me £18 to tile my engine shed! http://www.yorkmodelmaking.co.uk/00-scale/tiles-and-ridges/00-scale-grey-slates-tiles
  21. The team and layout looked superb on the BRM DVD - such a shame I cant make the Peterborough Show - this would have definitely been the layout to look out for! really stunning work and the electronics blew me away. I imagined the BBQ and beer went down well after a hard days filming!!!
  22. Loved that song in my youth and still do - now I know why lol!!!! Obviously an LMS fan!!!!
  23. Thank you Sir - I am very flattered and I know I have so much left to do. I have to say I have been following your thread (or at least trying to) since it began, especially as I live in Norfolk, and you have captured the look and atmosphere superbly. I cant keep up with the thread sometimes - so many topics covered with the best combination of information, wit, intellectual discussion and debate I have ever seen. I see you are all discussing water-works and 19th C drainage systems now!!!
  24. Thanks Keith and Mike, The layout is 14ft at the back, narrowing to 12ft wide at the front and overall, its 8ft deep with a centre access area (2ft x 5ft) so I can get to the corner of the layouts and hidden fiddle yard. The main centre board is 5ft deep which holds the goods area, station area and wagon sidings. Here is a pic showing most of the layout but with the old station building. This still leaves me enough space in the railway room for my work bench, an old wardrobe with fitted shelves for storage and an airbrush spray booth. I have made progress in the left corner's scenic area and will post more pics when I have completed the station and added some more detail.
  25. I apologise for neglecting to add any posts lately. I have been very busy with other life commitments, especially during the summer holidays. I have however, managed to find plenty of time to continue modeling. Current projects I have been working on include Severn Models etched brass greenhouse, furniture, garden and workshop tools (excellent kits - highly recommend them) - post: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/93349-severn-models-buildings-kits-in-etched-brass/. I have also been building laser cut kits from Model Scenery Supplies, etched brass LMS benches, trolleys and barrows from Scalescenes and am currently scratch-building a replacement station building as I was never that happy with the modified Scalescenes kit I had before. I have also been installing working platform and yard lamps (from FMR models) and other detailing parts such as signs etc. No pictures yet, but as soon as the station is finished, I will post them up.
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