drduncan

My photon mono has 2x16watt heat pads. https://www.amazon.co.uk/AIICIOO-Lizard-Vivarium-Tank-Warmer/dp/B086SL7MYX?pd_rd_w=MIVZX&content-id=amzn1.sym.28ecf3c0-e35d-463b-8f69-d55af961869c&pf_rd_p=28ecf3c0-e35d-463b-8f69-d55af961869c&pf_rd_r=42FFCWVHN676J7Y43AZP&pd_rd_wg=JKFAo&pd_rd_r=a0f4e8af-d8df-46e6-a2a2-094cb31f243b&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_grid_rp_0_0_sa&th=1

My set up. You can see the black heat pads abs the thermometer below the left hand one - it’s lift by the vast securing knob. Duncan

So, since the last post I’ve been making painful progress on electrics. The reason for this - despite and indeed because - the track panels aren’t yet fixed in place is because the wiring will be running over the top of the baseboard to the wiring loom behind the back scene. No upside down soldering when things go wrong. So it has been quite important to check all track feeds quite carefully. Also I needed to get the wiring loom in place before starting to block in the basic groundwork. To do this I’ve been busy making the control panel, planing the wire in tube point operating runs, siting the servos. I’ve also had to build the servo controllers and of course the means of setting the servo limits. So lots of soldering MERG kits. The basic control panel has been roughed out and it’s box constructed from 2 laminations of 5mm ply while the top itself is 100 thou plasticard. I have been agonising over the placement of the uncoupling magnets. I have 7. 1 is needed for the test track, leaving 6 for the layout. Ideally I’d like 1 or 2 spares for exhibitions (if I ever get an invite to exhibit or finish the layout enough to do so) so I have 4 or 5 to play with. I have already decided that the platform road gets 2. I as the loco release (the right hand green push button) and one for tail traffic (the left hand green push button). As I’m using Alex Jackson couplings I could, in theory place the two magnets to the outside of the loop points on the main/platform road. I could alternatively site then ivo the diamond crossing, or the tie of the points from the loop to the sidings. But do I need any on the loop itself? Decisions, decisions… Below is the hole in the end board where the panel will fold up for travel. Any suggestions warmly received! Duncan

Just to emphasise Steve’s point about turning on and letting things warm up. This morning the temp inside my printer was 21.9 with the printer off. Turning in and leaving it for just over 30 mins saw the temp rise to 23.9. Duncan

The Train Shop, Warwick while it was still at St John’s. Puffers at Kenton. Both had a fantastic range of stock and Dick Hewins at The Model Shop was a wonderfully helpful and patient man - and still is. Duncan

I agree that temperature is likely to be an issue. Check you resin bottles and see if they have a optimal temperature. I have reptile heat pads (£16 from Amazon) stuck to the inside of my Anycubic photon Mono Perspex and using a temperature control box that came with them the temperature is kept between 25 and 30 degrees during printing. My printer lives in the attic and it gets cold up there! In fact in the last cold snap I had to add a second heat pad. Duncan

Great to see your work. Any chance you could post images of the 1 plank single shoe brake gear? I've yet to find a good image on which to base such a version of my 1 plank 17'6 and 18' wagons - which are the only ones I've found in the wagon stock books that have single shoe brakes (and not many of them at that). Most of the other 1 planks up to and including the 17'6 ones use double shoe brakes either 9ft or 10ft wheelbase and thanks to (I think) @Compound2632 I found a wooden double show drawing which I stretched to make a 10ft version. On my BG fish wagons I've had some success using 0.3mm brass rod for the axle tie rods which avoids the wavy 3d print issue. Look forward to seeing more of your excellent work soon. Regards, Duncan

Have you looked at the Dart/MJT 6w set up? I like them because you can assemble them without solder! It would mean adjusting your prints to be without W irons (but I've successfully printed U29/20/28 6w composites with the j hangers and springs only to use etched W irons behind. D

@stevel Do you have your own 3d printing thread as I'd love to see more of your work. The S6 Tadpole - have you articulated the 6w chassis or is it rigid? I'm working on a load of BG fish 6w wish wagons and I've put a 3d printed cleminson style chassis under them but getting enough sideways movement is a bit of a problem. Duncan

If only Hornby used just MRJ to announce the new product range then there’d be absolutely no chance of premature publication… D

I had high hopes of this thread raised by the rather esteemed Mike the Stationmaster. For a while the discussion seemed informed and reasonable in tone. However, I find it has become increasingly tetchy and is risking being unbecoming to us all as well as insulting to some - on, for want of a better phrase, both sides of the argument. Time to hit the ignore button and retreat to more congenial pastures. drduncan

I subsequently saw that @Harlequinhad already done the business. D

Send me a sketch and rough dimensions and I’ll have a go. Duncan

I’m afraid I think the slip might be a trouble spot. I zoomed in a little on the image above and I think there is a misalignment in the geometry between the far end of the slip and the straight point beyond it resulting in a kink. It seems that the slip’s far crossing v is too shallow an angle to align with the direction of the straight stock rail of the point. The point seems to be correctly aligned on your track centres. I hope I’m wrong, or you know about this and have a plan as my immediate solution of either rebuilding the straight point on as a slightly curved ‘y’ with asymmetrical radius on the diverging road (I know the correct term but the blasted brain injury is getting in the way), or rebuilding the far end of the slip is a lot of work. Regards, Duncan

Even if narrow gauge it still looks like a 3 plank wagon. If the track on the quay was put in in 1890 then there is a strong possibility that it was laid as BG /mixed despite the proximity to gauge conversion because the SDR was not mixed gauge, so if narrow (ok, SG) on the quay it would be a stub of track connected to nothing else. if it was laid as BG/ mixed in 1890 there is a strong chance it was chaired track laid to ease conversion when it was due. Of course, if the quay siding dates from 1892, even if early in the year, SG is a probability and the fact that it was a stub until May that year may have just been a case of not worth the additional expense and trouble…I just can’t see going to the trouble of laying track that can’t be used for more than a few months. Duncan

I think it might be a 3 plank convertible wagon. Duncan

Unless it’s a certain GWR pannier tank…

I’ve done a fair bit of book reviewing within my own professional academic rather than hobby niche and the only reward is getting to keep the book! The one time I wrote a truly damming review the author complained to the book reviews editor of the journal. The editor was kind enough to send me a copy of his reply to the author, where he pointed out that he read all the books before choosing who on his list of wiling volunteers to send it to and that as a result was able to agree with every word I’d written… Duncan

A thought: if it’s a genuine D and S kit then the springs and axleboxes might be separate from the w irons, so an easy swap ; many of Danny Pinnock’s designs did this (but not all as I recall). When Adrian of ABS fame took over the kits he may have modified the masters to use his cast w iron and axleboxes integral to the solebar - which calls for a bit of razor sawing and carving to change them. Certainly the masters now have a combined solebar, w iron and axleboxe set up. I’m sure I remember building one D&S W2 with etched w irons and one from ABS with castings as part of the solebars… D

Use grease axleboxes - you’ll probably end up losing the springs and w irons in the process so be prepared to insert replacement etched w iron sets. By a coincidence I have 3D prints of grease axleboxes with or without springs…. Regarding the Wright-Mariller partition locking device it’s a bit more problematic. I’m trying to remember where I saw a discussion about the date of this device or patents surrounding it - I’m sure it was in one of @Compound2632’s threads or posts. I’ll have a poke around in my photos of the wagon stock books to see if by accident I’ve got any W2s in them and if the Wright-Mariller device fitting dates are recorded, but a working assumption would be on fitting ok oils axle boxes. Before this date of introduction (whenever it was) then there was a ‘standard’ locking device that can be seen (or lack thereof - I don’t think the locking device was prominent) in images of W1 large cattle wagons - there is a picture of a cattle wagon at Perranporth in one of the Middleton press books which I think shows the lack of visibility of the earlier device… Duncan

Ah. I shall look out for the videos! D

Almost snap!.... Its a E19 or E 20 (not sure which) convertible brake tri-composite, but mine needs Dean 6'4" bogies which I have drawn up as both standard gauge and broad gauge. But I don't have a printer big enough to do it (yet). I lust after an M3 max which would also allow Dreadnought and Concertina coaches.... Duncan

Any updates? Looking forward to seeing this at an exhibition! Duncan

Yes. I’m in the GWSG… and many of the members who are on the online group are on here too. D

Nick, Thanks. Im kicking myself as I’ve got Atkins! However a larger more detailed GA or engineering drawing would be helpful too for the CAD. I’m going to do 4mm, but 7mm would be a couple of mouse clicks, so not a problem… Duncan