Rshakes3

Hi RobMcg - good to see you back here! Now I`ve just taken Delivery of my model direct from Hornby and I`m happy to report all was well, The Driver's side steps were lose but easily replaced. So very happy with mine - no damage. Fingers crossed for yours

Yes - I had pretty much the same damage on one of my A2/3s - I really can`t see how that happened in transit.

Thanks Ribird - my 2 Thompson A2/3s both arrived here in Australia with similar damage but with the packaging un damaged. So I hope my W1 does not arrive in the same state. It really does look like the damage is done pre packing and if so I`m not sure what needs to be done about that. Now mine is on the way from Hornby direct and is in the US according to the delivery tracking site - so fingers crossed it was not damaged before shipment - I`ll let you know in about 10 days.

Thanks team, I now have 4 of these GW Bracket signals worked by the DCC concept's cobalt switches and I`m very happy with them. I also had a bit of fun with the 'drive' unit and the placement under the base board with 2 of them but I was able to get them positioned correctly with a bit of work. Now earlier on in this thread (Or was it in another one?) there was a fellow modeler who asked the question about disconnecting the base/drive unit once it was connected - was there any response to this? I`d be interested to know because 1 day I may want to build a new layout and re use these signals and it would be useful to know if this is possible. Please let me know

And just to round this one out the factory code from my A2/3 was GFT01-10008025 which is the same one in question back on page 17. However my MN was from LOT01-PO10003896 and it was perfect.

Thanks Rob, as you know it is a long way back to the UK from Oz and I`m very happy with the repairs so I won`t be sending it back. But I have contacted the retailer just to give them a heads up - no issues with them at all. But I am very happy with the loco - it runs perfectly - and while I'm not a real Thompson fan I am 'beginning' to like the look of the 2/3. Mind you I do think the 1st 2 P2's really do look great!

Thanks all, I just wanted to pass on my experiences with my new 60512 Steady Aim. I`ve been following this tread and I expected to have a missing top lamp iron and the ash pan linkage floating around in the box. But what I was presented with was much worse - both smoke deflectors were detached - one was broke in two, the ejector pipe was not attached at the cab end, one of the steps from the front was detached but the worst damage was that the screw incert in the tender had been pulled out with screw still attached to the bar from the loco - but the 4 pin connection was still in place. So there was a far bit of damage but the box showed no signs of impact at all! Further to this I also received 35024 in the same packaging as part of the delivery from the same vendor with no damage what so ever! So I can only think that the damage 60512 was done when it was originally packaged up at the factory - as I said the box and all the internal packaging was in good condition with no sign of damage, and 35024 was in perfect condition. Now I have repaired all of the damage and 60512 is run in and is looking good but I was not impressed with the amount of damage it had. I`ll go back and have a look at the box's again to see which factory it has come from.

Thanks team, just to add a little more to this, from what I`ve read the P2’s also had pony truck, driving axal failures and cracking frame issues. So remember their prime reason for being was to lift the heavy Aberdonian up from Aberdeen pre war. That line was heavily graded and had tight curves which did not really suit a loco with a long fixed wheel base. From what I understand it was also found that the pony truck was not really doing its job and hence the front drivers were doing a lot of the guidance work – hence the frame cracking. Faced with these issues in mid war they were rebuilt with the aim of addressing these issues – as Rob has outlined – however I have also read that they could have been relocated to Kings Cross to work the ECML where the grades and curves were far less constricted and the above issues would have been mitigated. Their power would have been a significant advantage against the A1/A3/A4 which were being pressed hard with the increased train lengths at that time. If that had happen they may well not have been re build - So something more to ponder

Hi team - I`d buy one.

Hi DougN - yes, I`ve run the loco for about a 1/2 hour on a rolling road to 'run it in' and then for about a 1/2 hour in the layout - all good and it really does appear to run far better now. My only issue is that I`ve reversed the wire connections so it runs in the opposite direction to the other locos - but that is easy fixed.

Hi team, is there any word on the BR junction signals and their due date? I`m very please that there are no operating issue with these GWR ones and I`m looking for at least 2 of the BR ones.

Hello all, so just a quick update - success! I have replaced the motor following the directions above and it is running much better and cooler than the old motor. now a bit more information - I had a friend turn up a small 'attachment' to suit a pinion puller I had which allows me to remove the fly wheel easily and I use a vice to re fit it to the new motor & I did use a small cutter to shorten the drive shaft. However I did find that considerable heat had been generated in the tender and the PCB was 'fried' along with some head damage to the back of the tender. I`ve removed the PCB and I`ll weather over the heat mark on the back of the tender - I was not expecting that however it really does point to an issue with the original motor. So I now have my Q6 back and thank you all for your help.

Thanks Team, yes Ray - I've just just purchased the last motor so we`ll see how we go - I`ve removed the existing motor from the loco and even though it runs 'ok' it does feel rough and it runs very warm. So thanks for the info and I`ll post back the results towards the end of January - thank you all :-)

Thanks Silver Sidelines - I`ll re visit my loco in the coming days and look to remove the motor and clear out the gears fully. Now I gather you bought a Hornby X6152 motor as your replacement? And I gather that you had to use the same 'process' to remove the worm gear from it - just using a bit of heat and a suitable screw driver? If you could just confirm as I think I`ll find my motor in a poor state and I`ll need to go down the replacement path.

Hi all, I know that this is an old topic but my Q6 has been showing the same issue over the last few weeks - stalling for no good reason. Following on from the above I have disassembled the loco, removed the 'driving' wheel and then run the motor/gear box - looking to clean out the 'lubricant' . So from a 'not moving state' my motor was then able to run to a point where I was game enough to reassemble the loco - however I`m not sure if the motor or the gear box was running a bit 'rough' before I did so - it was not silky smooth Anyway so with all the motion back together it runs 'ok' to a point - the motor is getting very warm and it still tends to stall on any power setting other than full 12 v DC and I`m not happy to put the body back on - its not right. So looking to take a step forward how can I remove the motor/gear box? I saw in a early thread where one of the team had sourced a new motor but also stated that the gear box cover only clipped on but from what I can see I`m not sure of how it just clips on? - Anyway any advise will be welcome - thanks team

Well I`ve had a blue one on pre order over a year now and the last update I saw was June/July - any ideas why they were delayed so long?

And just out of interest the photo Hornby have of the Corridor 3rd seems to have 1's on the doors - so I gather these are 'stock' photos and not of the actual new models.

Hi Rob - that really is an 'interesting' bit of damage to the buffer beam! But also I succumbed and purchased 6221 earlier in the week so I`ll let you know if it turns up with all the hand rails

Hi Rob - good to see you got a good result with the wire :-)

Hi Rob - now I`m not too sure how 'thick' your fuse wire is but the 200/220 OHM resistors I used here were from a pack purchased from JayCar which is over in NZ - and I only use them for 12 v DC work and I think they were only 1 amp. I just happened to have an unused one on the work bench and the wire looked pretty close to the handrail - perfect match in the end.

Hi Rob, I`ve been following this trail for along time now & I too had the same issue with my DoH. Having read the earlier posts I was fully prepared for this to happen but while the missing hand rail was still in the box I managed to lose it on the floor somewhere – clux! However I was able to use a 200 OHM resistor wire bent around a small set of needle nose pliers to replace it. I also used a 0.5mm drill bit to carefully open out the hole. With a little bit of Super Glue applied to the inside the replacement is perfect. So easy job if you take your time.

I too received my Duchess yesterday – totally un expected as a delivery from the UK usually takes 2 weeks – so hats off to Hattons and the mail service for a delivery of 7 days to Australia. Having watched on with interest the earlier post re the hand rails I was very careful when I open the box up. One handrail on the smoke box had come lose and was sitting on the base of the plastic packing. No problem and I was able to re fit it - not a real easy job mind you. And they are not present on the real thing in York. Also I had the plastic foam over the front bogie which I removed. I`m still running the loco however so far I`m very happy with my example.

Hi Sherr, yes I have both the older and the newer ones - 6 in all. I had an issue with one of the new ones and I carefully drilled out the small 'hole' to uncover the screw. so if you have a small drill bit and a Pin Vice and go carefully you should be able to get to the screw and move along to reset the spring.

Hi Forester, thanks for the confirmation and I totally agree - I hope you are feeling better soon!

I know this is an old post but I too are looking to go down the same path with a New Century car along with the No 14 Observation Car. I've acquired a 1st Class Kitchen, a 1st class parlour, a 3rd Kitchen & a 3rd Brake/Parlour. Now these are wooden sided so there maybe a slight mismatch with the Bar Car. I`ve also referred to A.M Fords books & I noted the reference above refers to the 12 Wheel version of the car - so I gather there is a bit more history here than meets the eye at 1st glance. But how did your rake work out?