Spitfire2865

Im quite jealous youve got your Vol 3 already.

Working through a member at the society to secure a copy for myself. Hopefully it doesnt fall through.

And of those vans at Darley Dale, I believe I know of that photo, which was key for building my now quite poor 4mm model.

Did some work today.

Sprayed some red onto the headlamp box.

and begun on the cab floor and lower sidesheets.

Oh dear, I seem to have forgotten to update...again

But since the last update...

Ive finalized the design of the American type.

Gotten 400 USD worth of 3D printed parts with another 300 on the way.

Had brass etches done which mostly contain the tender tank components and assorted details and begun work on the flares.

And the working headlight with removable lighted reflector which works via sprung wire contacts.

Painted a figure to be the guard in my L&Y brake van.

And made some assorted items for his van.

And soon I will have the lasercut steel parts which will make the chassis and the wood to send off to a lab to lasercut for a very reasonable fee.

Ive also just gotten word from my brass caster that the driver centers are soon to be made, and Im waiting on Walsall Models to finish up the carrying wheels.

I hate this part of modelling. The waiting for parts to come.

But Ive been taking time off more designing (although I have already drawn up a G3 boxcar to go along with my American) and been focusing on some ebay selling.

Hopefully it doesnt take another month to post again, but I do tend to forget.

The counterweight at the top looks a different colour, but I would agree with Stephen on the crane being all over the same colour, whatever that may be.

Although, I doubt anyone would have the evidence to back up any claim of it being wrong whatever you choose. 

Wow. Amtrak shot themselves in the foot again. Im not even surprised, just disappointed.

Ive lived near the sea (less than 300') all my life. 

Seaweed and moss growing on rocks has a very slick, almost rubbery appearance especially where the waves constantly wash over rather than tidal cycles, so perhaps artists acrylic drybrushed in the direction of water receding would do.  Then while wet, sprinkle a little but of grass flock down of appropriate colours to give it that little bit of tuft.  Then washes of similar greens along vertical surfaces (properly masked at the high tide mark) to get the distinct line.  

Plus dont forget the many shell fragments, clusters, and general debris that end up washing ashore and getting tangled in the seaweed.  Any stray fluff or dust that gets settled into the paint or flock while detailing would only make it more realistic.

You could always throw in a bit of wood chippings as well to represent bits of driftwood.  

Well it depends on what kind of glue they used.  

If PVA, warm soapy water would absolutely be the best option for removing glue, and as long as you dry the track, it shouldnt be an issue.  Nickel Silver rails dont rust very easily.  

Very interesting.  Up to now most have been small and semi portable layouts but what about those who have a roomful?  My tinplate layout occupies most of a  room that is app 16' x 14' and is solidly attached to the walls in places; not an easy thing to move.  As the locos and rolling stock age, they may lose whatever value they may have had so as they age further so too the values decrease even more.  These are not rare or unique - average Hornby and American trains in various conditions, all already quite old!  There are the usual buildings and accessories, track, controls and wiring. etc which add little to the total.

Due to my location, I have a feeling that it will be all cut up and taken to the tip as there is little interest and none from the family, who might indeed wield the saw!

 

Brian.

Always an option for those in the US, Trainz.com

Tried to sell my O scale collection to them, was not happy with the price enough to sell to them, but I do have the time to sell everything piecemeal.  Might be an option for family in the unfortunate event...

To answer your question, I solely use enamel paints and often through my airbrush, a cheapie "Master" branded one off Amazon, which Ive had no real issues with.  

Just thin the paint to the consistency of milk with thinner and spray light coats.

In looking for an airbrush, go for a double action with a large gravity fed paint cup.  

The airbrush you linked is far too small for any real modelling work.  

Look for something below £100, but not THAT cheap.  There are good ones out there that dont cost hundreds. 

Because it's the approximate scale for Gauge 3 layouts?

Dave

It actually is exactly Gauge 3, of which there are a surprising amount of LNWR items available due to Mike Williams making kits.

For your signal cabin, why not go with 1/22.5? 

Darwin mustve been taking a nap that day.

Look for model aircraft control wire.  

You want some basic HTML coding. 

http://www.echoecho.com/htmllinks01.htm

This should tell you what to do.  

What exactly does it say?

 

As the site is a marketplace for prints with the goods on show I cannot see why it is blocked on some PCs. Why bar potential customers?

It's rather like Hornby blocking you from their website!

 

I originally found Shorpy from a link in another topic on RMweb, so others must be able to see it.

 

Keith

 

EDIT It must be just as frustrating as my PC without ADP still getting the adblocker message on Railpictures.

You don't have permission to access /files/images/02884u_0.jpg on this server.

Additionally, a 301 Moved Permanently error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

Why not still use cork sheet? Lay it out across the board and you can run point rodding and wires through it. 

I keep my enamels in a dark drawer of a tool chest I got for free from work when they were tossing it several months ago.  Barely fit in my car, but managed.  

Id assume any storage in a UV safe area would be good.

Mark

 

There are a few on here for what ever reason dislike eBay, but many of us use it regularly. As you are in the States whilst UK models are scarce, they are quite cheap. Also many UK sellers will post abroad but postage may be an issue, Unmade Ratio kits may be an option as the packs are thin and light

I don't know about now because I haven't bought anything from them for a few years, but Hattons used to be very cheap sending to Canada. In fact, with one order, it was slightly cheaper to send a package to British Columbia than it was over the river to the Wirral, and they have a lot of second hand models.

 

Edited to add: many UK sellers will post abroad 

 

I've often found that, unless a listing says they will definitely not post abroad within the actual listing description, then there's a good chance they will - it's always worth a quick message.

Dont very well understand the logic, but postage from the UK to the US is INCREDIBLY cheap up to a certain weight (something like 1-2KG), however ANY postage from the US to UK is expensive no matter the weight.  

In the past Ive had hattons ship me yard lengths of flexi for something like 4 pounds but when I went to send a friend in the UK a custom built model (under 1lb) it cost me $20. 

For small boxes you should be fine ordering from the UK.

Are they available direct from the society? I remember asking a while back but cant remember. 

Prior to WWII GWR freight brakevans were allocated to individual Guards and worked with the Guard - so effectively they were all on an 'out & back' form of working.  This changed c.1942 when it had obviously been realised that this was too restrictive to deal with wartime conditions and freight and mineral train journeys which could last for many hours longer than they were booked to.  So from then onwards most vans were allocated to depots and some to individual workings and the RU (Restricted User) arrangement came in later as well.

Also the L&Y allocated brakes to specific guards early on, as their name would be painted onto the side along with the home location.

Wonder what happened to the Model Power N scale line.  Their steam locos werent that bad.

Id go for a 2 track sector plate.  If you get the geometry right, you can line both tracks up, or use one as storage with quick access. 

I doubt if there is a prototype for these, although the weathering is well executed and there has been a lot of time spent in execution, I do not think that coaches would get in this condition in real life, for instance the roof would not be rusty.

 

So I think you are right - ebay madness 

As I have said similarly in the past on this very thread, always amazing when those pesky non ferric materials manage to rust!

I thought you were doing a fine job of the tank, though I agree it would definitely grow tiring with all the tiny bits.  

For the motor screws, did you try some 1.4 or 1.6mm Metric bolts?  Perhaps something equivalent in the American screw threads?