Spitfire2865

Are you sure you didnt mix up the 3D print and a RTR body? It looks great.

Wait. What are the wheel sizes? Even if we cant get the proper spoked wheels, we must be able to get some sort of acceptable compromise or this kit is already dead. Or better yet, someone may have the means to make wheels for it. Surely someone on the forum knows how to.

I was...or still am, trying to find a scratchbuilt representation of strapping without buying etches. I had good results with card for the corner plates. Though my bolt work needs improving. Though the strapping still needs work. Maybe more card? Plastic is definitely too thick fir most wagons. Ohh! Which kits. I may be able to assist with reference. Ive built One 51L kit so far, the MR long low, and it was a fantastic kit aside from the brake gear which required quite a bit of fiddling to get it all lined up correctly. Also, my only wagon with a proper moulded horse hook and not a blob to represent it.

I meant without resorting to an etch.

Id say, for wooden wagons, RTR offerings are mostly horrible. Inaccurate bodies on incorrect chassis'. Also, anything early grouping or pregrouping is untouched. Im surprised the standard LMS 5 plank hasnt been touched by RTR manufacturers. And covered by only one kit manufacturer. On the topic of building wagons, Ive built a few in 4mm with actual wood. Its a pain to cut each plank to size, but it results in actual wooden bodies. Though painting it is a bit difficult and decals are limited to pressfix. Ive now built 4 opens and one brake van in wood. Still working on strapping though. Etch would be best.

I would definitely say avoid having to roll anything in the kit. This is a lovely and unusual prototype, and would be useful to many people, best not overcomplicate it if a casting can be made. Resin may work, but WM would add weight right over the wheels. Not all much room for weight on this loco otherwise. Im looking forward to more updates and an eventual release. Ill be one of the first to order one, thats for sure. Any idea on price range, wheels, and gearbox?

The clasp brakes may be like the LNWRs, cant exactly explain it, some weird linkage outside the w iron. Niles built a brake van with the linkage. Didnt make much sense to me though.

How long were you holding onto that etch? Above that, Im more surprised you havent managed to misplace it after so many years. I cant seem to keep anything findable. I didnt even realize the whistle was printed on. Odd the designer would keep it there when its so much easier to drill holes and add separate bits as you did. Though now it looks too good compared to that dome. Haha. You joke of my youth, yet my last name is Young.

People say she doesnt deserve harsh words. Yes she does. This kind of event can affect others far more than physical wounds. Id hate to hear the drivers perspective, or those in the cars she cut off.

Your passion for detail and authenticity is inspirational. I saw this thread a while ago and then lost it. Glad Ive found it again. I think your use of miniature rivets is brilliant, and the hinges and everything. Not even mentioning the planking. These wagons will rival museum pieces when finished. I cant wait to see future posts.

I can understand the reasoning behind putting two different liveries on a model, but I dont personally see the appeal. But other than that, this turned out great. Those strips of rivets really look good. Aside from a few unreachable areas, this does not look like it was 3D printed, but moulded. You really show what 3D printing can result in.

Slow work. Ive done very little. This semester is coming to an end and Ive been exhausted from finishing things. I built the slaters underframe. This was the first slaters kit which didnt naturally sit flat. Must have been warped slightly. Im thinking of building an LNWR diagram 33 van in Late LNWR livery. A bit too early for my timeframe but I like the look. Just have to get the energy to scratchbuild a body. The Jinty has progressed slowly as well. Brake gear was fiddly to assemble as I had the whole thing held together loosely with clips holding it all together to line it up and slowly soldered each brake to its hinge. If I did it correct, I actually would have had moveable brake gear, but my soldering is still a bit sloppy and I managed to fix it all together. And the task I was regretting the most, pickups. Next time Ill go for plungers for ease but here it was too late. After about 5 tries at back wipers, I gave up and made tread wipers. The front and middle pickups push against the wheels while the rear ones hook under and around the flange. Paint next, then final assembly and then I can make a start at the body.

Wood can be primed. If its laser cut wood, Id recommend it just in case. Paints, Id say acrylic would work, though I use enamels exclusively so they work for me to a limited degree. Glue. CA or craft glue should work. If you want, even epoxy, though not sure whyd you bother.

Wow! Its been a while. It took quite a bit to get the wheels for the Jinty, but they finally came. After plenty of fiddling, I finally have a running chassis...sort of. Still a long way to go to get the chassis fully running, but Im back on track. No pun intended. And heres a video of it running propped up on some paints. And I recently finished another plane. A Roden SE5A Now in the mail I have some 1/350th Dauntless kits as well as detailing etches for them.

I never said destroy it. Far from it. Im all for the preservation of history, but what good is a document if it spends the rest of history in a cabinet instead of being shared and learned from. And if you were to have read the rest of this discussion, you would see that I addressed the manpower issue, as well as not "giving away" the information. I find your reply rather rude, insulting, and shows you didnt even read the conclusion of the discussion and that we wanted to keep this thread on topic.

For the horse, Id try the bike method, two clear wheels with legs attached, rotate around and are dragged by say magnets under the baseboard. A sort of faller car system, but those ones where the magnets move rather than the vehicle. Could have proper horse shunting if the magnet was controllable.

Ive never heard of it as Hirail modeling but yes, tinplate track with scenery. My grandfather loved doing that. And Brian, I see your shameless inclusion of that police box.

Markits Is still trading. Its just next to impossible to contact him. Im currently waiting on an order I placed.