Mick Bonwick

Hi Steve. No, just allowed the layers to build up. Some manipulation was necessary at the base of the water tanks where the build-up was too heavy, but everywhere else was left as it lay.

On 12/01/2019 at 16:13, sb67 said:

Thanks Mick, look forward to that.

Steve.

Patience rewarded.

Wanting to play with artists's oils and AMMO Oilbrushers, I tried out the former on this subject. Quite simple. really, in that I used a blob from each of the three colours on a piece of corrugated card, allowing the card to absorb some of the carrier and shortening the drying time.

White spirit was used to thin each brushful to a wet consistency (slop it on) and then each was left to dry. Several layers were used, and each layer was mixed separately, ensuring that no two layers were quite the same colour. This is the finished subject shown with the photograph that inspired the task.

 Can you share what you did with the oils?

Soon.

Everything above the running plate was done with oil paints. I was trying two different types - water-mixable artist's oils and AMMO by Mig oilbrushers. Finished off with the normal pigment selection. The underframe was a combination of oilbrusher and airbrushed Railmatch Sleeper Grime. The shiny edges to the buffers comes from handling, and I didn't notice it until I'd taken the photographs.

Thanks, Steve. Any more suggestions for subjects?

That is a very rusty car!

That was the plan. :-)

Excellent. Thanks very much. I'm going to have to start another process to add this to the model, even though it's actually finished. The photographs that I take are published on here some time after they're taken.

Long bristles to hold the fluid and fine tip to accurately place it. Some folks use a small, fine round-tipped brush, but I find the rigger holds far more paint and is just as accurate.

Hello Mick, been re reading this thread and I was wondering, do you know if turning the loco wheels using a battery would work on a DCC fitted loco?

Hello Steve,

Only if the decoder has been set to run on DC. You'd need to check the decoder settings to determine whether anything needs to be changed. If I'm working on a DCC locomotive I'll usually set up a DCC handset to work a rolling road and place the loco on that. Mind you don't clog up the ball bearings with paint, though?

Will be placing an order for those products in the new year to have a crack at mine (though prob not until Easter) Thanks for sharing

You're welcome, Rich. Hopefully you've seen that it's not a black art. Well, not as black as soldering, anyway. . . . . . . . . 

Thanks, Steve.

Definitely airbrush territory. The idea is to discolour, rather than cover, the roof. By only using a very small amount of a very few products and working the surface with the right brushes, all sorts of effects can be created with minimal effort.

Have a go!

Thanks, Steve.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours.

Hi Mike,

I use the cheapest that I can find when I need to buy some more.Currently half way through some B&Q best. A wash is a very thin concoction, with a high proportion of carrier to pigment, and will take a long time to dry thoroughly. I don't very often use more than one wash on one area of a model, so the problem you relate doesn't occur. When I do want to use more than one wash in an area I will leave the first one to dry for 48hrs and then apply a coat of Testor's Dullcote. I leave that for a further 24hrs and then move on to the next wash colour.

I keep meaning to try one of the odourless products but have not yet got round to it.

Looking good, woud you use the same fade colour for any livery?

Steve.

Bauxite, Maroon, Rail Blue but probably not Brunswick Green. The latter seemed to get darker with age rather than lighter.

You don't need any help from me!

Yes, two colours of pigment and a wash were used. More precise details will appear in the VAA portion of this very blog . . . . . . . . . 

Looks great Mick, how did you deal with the underframe and below the door hadles? Steve.

Patience, dear boy. All will be explained in the next project. There's nothing to stop you having a guess, though.

Looks pretty good to me!

It will be interesting to see how you improve on something that is already pretty darn good.

 

Tony

It will be more a case of how I did it than making it better.

What are the pigments you'll be using Mick?

The darker one is AK Interactive Dark Earth and t'other one is AMMO by Mig Rubble. These two seem to be good colours for model railway vehicles to represent underframe tones. To my eyes, anyway, not necessarily to everybody's liking.

Hi,

If you are after the same effect as the photograph may I respectfully suggest that you fade the main body colour first otherwise your model will end up rather dark.

Cheers

A valid point. It had been my original intention to airbrush a coat of ComArt Light Dust to achieve the fading effect, but that went by the board when I sat down to get on with it. Impatience got the better of me!

If I make the time, I'll do another one without being impatient and see what the difference is.

Thank you for mentioning it.

That's right, Steve. The layer of dirt that you can see in the original photograph is consistently thin, although it has changed the colour of the wagon significantly. My intention is to copy that as closely as I can. One disadvantage of this approach is that the wash tales a long time to dry, although it can be helped on its way by directing a plain airflow from the airbrush. Just air, no paint.

Nice, if a little late for me - but I am sure that the principles will work on similar pre-nationalisation stock.

What I plan to use will work on anything that uses the rails. I think.

I got some of these too, looking forward to this.

I guessed you might have!

I'll bear that in mind, Rich.

Thanks, Steve.

Just though of another project, how about a VDA or VAA van?

Steve

Now there's a thought! I wonder if I've got one tucked away somewhere. . . . . . .