Mick Bonwick

I'm going to have to get a little forest cabin with poor lighting. If that's what it takes . . . . . . 

Alan Buttler, Dan Evason and Dapol. What a combination !

9 hours ago, HeatonLodge40 said:

Hi Mick, they look superb! Not seen this thread before.

I shall copy your techniques on the HUO’s I’ve left to do!

Simon 

It's not a quick job, the way I do it, Simon. I'm confident that you'll manage to speed it up, though!

2 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Looks excellent Mick.

 

I have some of the MIG powders, they seem very good. I'm a bit confused about the relationship to the AMMO range. The Mig Jiminez website seems to state that the AMMO range is the "final collection". I wonder if this means that MIG are a former generation of their weathering powders, with AMMO being the latest?

The way I understand things, Mikkel, is that Mig Jiminez started three businesses with partners who subsequently parted company with him on two of those occasions. We now have the benefit of MIG Productions, AK Interactive and AMMO by Mig that have produced ranges of modelling materials that all do as they say on the tin, all from Mig Jiminez.

53 minutes ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

Hi Mick, they look superb. Great work.

 

Cheers, Ade.

Thanks, Ade. The splendid detail on the models is what really stands out. Making them dirty is only a small part of the appearance.

10 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

HOP21s Mick? You got me excited there....
 

Sorry, Phil. I'd just been reading about HOP21s and my brain told my fingers to press the wrong key.

Confusion is no longer a stranger in my life.

If I can't have a 'Groan' emoji, you can't have a 'Drool' one!

4 minutes ago, nickwood said:

I can't help but think that the bunker lining on the second photos needs a bit more toning down though, particularly nearest the cab door.

 

You're right. Now that you've mentioned it, it's blindingly obvious!

Iain,

Use small quantities!

As far as I am aware the advanced weathering workshops are still going ahead:

https://pendonmuseum.com/events/advanced-weathering-with-tim-shackleton

https://pendonmuseum.com/events/advanced-weathering-with-mick-bonwick

I agree with that, my Captain. My use of the stuff didn't start until after the EU approved concoction arrived here, so I was surprised to see the difference when shown it. I only use Dullcote as a surface preparation, so the lack of a totally matt finish is not an issue for me. The finish of the paint or pigment is what I need to retain, rather than a finishing or protective coat of something.

That would depend on the required result, Tony. If it was to represent a fairly recently outshopped engine then I would apply the "grease" to the bare metal. If it was to represent a well-used engine and, therefore, a coupling rod covered in oil and grime, then I would colour it before applying the paint.

On 09/11/2020 at 19:27, nickwood said:

That is deliciously grubby, one of your best IMHO. Needs a driver / fireman in oily overalls to finish it off.

On 09/11/2020 at 19:33, sb67 said:

That looks stunning Mick! 

On 09/11/2020 at 21:29, NHY 581 said:

There's nice, look ewe. 

 

Rob. 

1 hour ago, Mikkel said:

Oh, that is excellent. You've made an irresistible loco even irresistibleier. 

Thanks, chaps. You're very kind. It's not too difficult to make these little folks look good though, is it? I've been using them to try out all sorts of things, some of which have worked.

1 minute ago, Miss Prism said:

What is 'AMMO' ?

 

A manufacturer of materials for weathering amongst many other things.

https://www.migjimenez.com/en/

Yes, I mean exactly that. No rush, took my time, waited for it to dry, had another go, waited for that to dry, amd so on. Just built up the layers slowly.

29 minutes ago, davidbr said:

That's chocolate.  Any particular flavour?

 

Mick - roof dirt and frame dirt??

A logical response, but not accurate. Not on this occasion, anyway.

There are some clues elsewhere in the blog.

11 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Green and black. 

I have great pleasure in informing the honourable gentleman that the provided response consists of one item of a correct nature.

Oi!

I think you should. I really do.

There's nothing like the occasional bit of provocation!

Several makes, Robin, from several places. This is the order I use when searching for them:

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/

https://www.emodels.co.uk/

https://www.snmstuff.co.uk/

https://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/

My favourite brands are:

AMMO by Mig

AK Interactive

MIG Productions

Nothing to choose between them, really.

The shortest path to success with washes for our purpose is to start with them 'wetter' than you think they should be. In other words use more thinners (white spirit) than wash to begin with, adding more wash until it's right. It won't take long to get the right mixture for your given task.

What you're aiming for is something that performs like this:

There's no need to apologise for any of this. What a splendid account of your planning process. Your ability to use computer aids, to design and visualise, is something I envy.

Keep writing - I'll keep reading!

That's a good result! Most impressed with your determination and resolve. You could prevent some of your intended work, though, if you gave the mechanism a jolly good clean first. In the absence of isopropyl alcohol you could use paper towels and cotton buds to remove the excess grease. The grease gets spread around the inside of the body as soon as the mechanism turns the wheels. Clean everything before running it in.

For cleaning spectacle plates I find these useful:

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/50x-small-triangular-cotton-swabs-tamiya-87106

Thanks, Steve. All fine here, you OK?

Thanks, Tony. Just right for my period, strangely.

The approach that I take to apply powders is to first ensure that the surface will take them. If it is a gloss or semi-gloss surface then I will prepare it with a coat of Testor's Dullcote amd then apply the powders once that is dry - about 10 minutes. You should be able to follow this process in the Land Rover article on my blog. If you haven't already found it.

The trick with Railmatch jars is to keep the interface twixt jar rim and cap thread completely free of paint. Before you replace the cap, thoroughly clean the inside of the cap and the rim and thread of the glass jar so that you can see no trace whatsoever of paint, wet or dry. If you have some, apply a little Vaseline to the jar thread before replacing the cap, but this is not absolutely necessary. Saves time and hassle next time you come to use it.

All this just for a few tractors? 

I'm impressed by your never-ending modelling, Rich.