Mick Bonwick

Heading for a dirty weekend. 

2 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Looking forward to this one Mick 

Steve.

Me too, Steve.

14 minutes ago, Tony Teague said:

Excellent!

I do like a good bit of filth!

So I've heard!

1 hour ago, Captain Kernow said:

Mick,

 

Would you be able to illustrate a 'half inch flat shader' and a 'filbert brush', please?

 

Thanks.

 

Yes, my captain. Tomorrow.

Not for this one, Steve. The next one will be a bit of a contrast, though. 

If Spring is in the air, then the crop may have only just germinated.  On the other hand, if it's Winter wheat, it may have already grown quite  lot.

On 07/08/2019 at 05:35, NHY 581 said:

 

You seem to have inspired me to have a go at mine. 

 

Make sure we see the results, Rob, and no being sheepish about it.

Can you reveal which pigment colours you used and for what effects, please?

1 hour ago, sb67 said:

One question, do you ever use airbrushed matt varnish for he base coat? Is it just that Dullcote is the best product?

 

Hi Steve. I have used airbrushed varnish (AMMO by MIG Lucky Varnish), but came back to Dullcote. For me, it has always worked, it is consistent in its performance and is so convenient.

2 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

 

I do of course note the digit in the photo of the prototype......nice example of nudging. 

 

I still haven't got the hang of this smartphone thing that I was using at the show. I have several other fingered shots like it, so I'm convinced that the lens moves around the casing of its own free will.

55 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

I was going to say 'gravy granules and household dust'...

You can say whatever you like, it's of no matter to me.  That's an interesting idea, though, and maybe the subject of a future article. Not on this forum, though. . . . . . . . . .

Full list of products used:

Testor's Dullcote to get rid of the high gloss shine of the original model.

Dark Earth pigment to represent old dried mud.

Track Rust pigment to represent rusty areas.

Tyre Black acrylic paint for the rubber pads on the wheels.

Europe Earth pigment for lighter dust and dirt deposits, especially on the wheels.

Gunmetal pigment to highlight areas of clean but oily mechanism.

Light Dust enamel wash for dust in crooks and nannies. This was probably a step too far, but I left it in place rather than remove it and, probably, other layers as well.

All of this was done in small quantities, building up effects one at a time.

You can see this ploughing engine in a more realistic setting here:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120848-little-muddle/page/190/#comment-3633770

Interesting to note the use of the grey primer. Is that because you just happened to have some, or is it for a specific reason?

Nice foam! 

54 minutes ago, nickwood said:

Great job Mick, what was used? A lot of skill would be my answer.

 

I suspect however, that the one you saw at Bloxham was much more like the un-weathered version.

Not entirely.

It's a quiz, but without prizes. 

I go away from my computer for a week and look what happens! Splendid blog, Nick. I'm really looking forward to some more.

I think that the path looks convincing as it is. I'm sure that it will look absolutely fine at normal viewing distances.

What did you use for the long grass, Nick?

Good to see this. It's about time you did some scenery! 

8 minutes ago, Firecracker said:

 Most of what I’ve tried had either no effect or overwhelmed.  

It's a good idea to prepare the surface before you place any pigment. A shiny rubber tyre won't accept pigment, so I spray with a coat of Testor's Dullcote. Once that is dry (10 minutes maximum) the pigment is added in SMALL quantities at a time. You will see from previous articles in this blog that my method of making things dirty never involves very much at all in the way of materials. This process also reduces the chance of overwhelming. 

Here's another example:

Hi Owain,

I don't plan to pose it anywhere in any position. This is a weathering exercise.

I suppose I could nudge it in an appropriate direction, though, even if it isn't a canopy. 

The first step in the series mentioned the name of the pigment, and if you enter that name into your favourite search engine you will receive several supplier names as a result. I can't remember which of them I bought it from - it was a while ago and my memory isn't as good as it used to be. At least, I don't think it is.

Thank you, Tony. Restraint is important. 

Thanks, Steve. All you need now is a rake of Great Western 70' coaches and you can have a go. 

Tony,

I agree entirely. I couldn't work out how to do it, so i didn't! I couldn't get anything behind it to protect the cream paintwork, so left it as it was. A tan colour would have done the job, but it would need to be able to soak in, which would have meant removing it. Not possible.