Mick Bonwick

I agree, but cannot take any credit. All I'm doing is making at a bit dirty. 

1 minute ago, Tony Teague said:

Mick

Did you apply a coat of Testors before you started on the pigments?

Tony

Tony,

In this case, no. I am having to work on the original paint finish. Fortunately this has a good texture to it, so the pigments are adhering quite well.

So far, Steve, yes.

25 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

 

Though perhaps we are nudged along that path by Dark Forces?  They wind us up, point us in their direction of travel, and leave us to do all the walking for them. God, that's bleak. 

 

More nudging? Is there no end to this?

18 hours ago, Edwardian said:

What is the model? 

It is thought that the coach is kit built from an A.F. Hammond kit, produced in the late 70s or early 80s.

3 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

What is the model?  I could do with L13 and L14.  I think Trevor Charlton might have done them. 

I don't know the answer to the question, but I'll make enquiries.

Hi Tony,

The panel lines aren't sufficiently well defined to ensure that the wash runs only in the corners and edges. It could have spread over the surface too far for my liking, resulting in excessive clean-up.

Try these:

As promised:

Thanks, Steve. I have used a dark grey pigment, MIG Volcanic Ash, lightly dusted around the loading hatch area. I have now taken a photograph but not yet processed it. I'll do that and post it here in a few days time, when I return from a trip to darkest Sussex.

https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_405_195_199&products_id=22721&osCsid=vsqdvlt48sjhc9b27abi3cldu1

Further explanation to come, Steve.

Portland cement powder would have been too dark (to my eye) and I haven't got any left from all my failed DIY projects - it went hard!

I am attempting to show a scale effect by using a pigment that is lighter than cement powder, and it is also as finely ground as the real thing.

The choice of using a sieve was present, but I decided to not use one, to see how well the pigment performed. I should have used the sieve! 

"Well, I have no idea what I will post on the blog."

If current content is the taste of things to come, you won't need to post anything. Others will do it for ewe.

Stop it. You're interrupting my packing. 

This is a weathering exercise, so functionality is not paramount. I understand the problem with the couplings and it's a shame about that, but I wonder how many of these could be placed in a train before the superglue gave way. I'm not in a position to test the theory, but from some of the posts I've seen there must be a few people around who can check it.

Simple to use, straight from the jar. 16/17 PSI gives quick, even coverage. It is very suitable for fading colours, although a bit stark.

Pros:

Simplicity

Time

Cons:

Application

Cleaning up

Keep reading . . . . . .

37 minutes ago, RBAGE said:

 tell us how you made such a mess so that we can all try to replicate it.  

Go back to step 4, young man. What followed that was a good dousing with MIG Productions Dark Mud, positioned initially on the seams and then brushed outwards in all directions from there.

Thrashing is reserved for weekends.

Thanks, Robin. 'Twas fun to do.

I have always used Testor's Dullcote. It always performs (for me) and I have never had a problem that can't be attributed to my ineptitude. Note, though, that I only use it for preparing a surface, not for protecting a finished item.

If I was to recommend a varnish for finishing off, it would be Ammo by Mig's one-shot product, Lucky Varnish, which comes in ultra-matt, matt, satin and glossy versions.

Oops! It had a coat of Testor's Dullcote at the beginning. I forgot to mention that at the time, but have now edited the post to include that vital piece of information. Thanks, Steve.

Hi Steve,

Sorry for the rather long delay in responding. I have removed (without realising it) that part of my blog configuration that allows me to see new comments, so completely missed your question.

A wash is mostly carrier and some pigment. This means that the coat of pigment laid down is very thin and soft, thus taking a VERY long time to dry hard when used on a large flat surface like a roof. I use one of two methods to cope with this - the first is to treat the surface with Dullcote before starting with the wash, and the second is to wait a long time for the wash to dry. 

There is a queue of rolling stock waiting to be weathered, now, so some of your requests might appear on here soon.

49 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

Interesting. What's the next step, then Mick?

 

Rectification!

50 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

 

(Are you also doing 7mm now, by the way, or is this for someone else?)

 

I am part of the O Gauge group of the Leamington and District Model Railway Society, although my main interest is 4mm, and it is for someone else.

The shortest time left was 10 minutes, Steve. I found that this was quite workable, and didn't worry if there was a small amount of disruption by being too quick. The surface you see in the photograph shows how flat the finish is. It has had nothing done to it after drying.

Just a few touches here and there. Nothing very much - smokebox door, running plate, cab roof and steps.