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Posts posted by sb67
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3 hours ago, NHY 581 said:
Morning Steve.
Layout looks fab. Lovely colour pallett..
Rob
Thanks Rob, I much prefer slightly muted colours. Got my inspiration from yourself and a few others on here plus the Gordon Gravett book 🙂
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Thanks for that detail Rob that's great, I've copied and pasted to a document for further reference and I'll adapt the methods for the Ruston, which I guess would weather in a similar way, before tackling the 03.
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Bit the bullet and started work on my 2 Rustons I have, this one has been done using Oil's for a paint fade then washes, still a bit of work to do using some weathering powders, I also want to have some oil leaking from the bottom of the engine doors, but not sure how to do this as my bottle of AK Engine oil has congealed!
This one has had a pin wash in the panel lines and a coat of matt varnish, I want to use @NHY 581's method of using powders. I'll start to fade the paint slightly with lighter colours the add more earthy weathering tones.
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Hello Rob, just read though the post you put on my weathering thread, it did say you mask the windows, off I go to do that the out with the rattle can of varnish 🙂
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See The Light - Starpoint
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That Autotrain looks superb David, just the right amount of weathering on the trailer, did you pin wash around the doors etc? I'll look forward to seeing you finish the loco 🙂
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Hello Rob, got a quick question about your weathering. When you spray the initial coat of varnish do you cover any glazing or remove any overspray after?
Cheers.
Steve.
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16 hours ago, Squirrel Rail said:
I fade the yellow using light grey washes with a dab of white in the centre of the panels to lighten it more as required. The mig washes are ok for highlighting detail but not overall as they darken it rather than fading. George Dent has done a good article in the June 23 MRM which is very similar to mine but not quite as battered if that helps!
Thank you, I did see that. I've got a bundle of info and inspiration to get going now, thank you 🙂
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Thank you, the colours look spot on, how did you fade the yellow?
I'm doing some weathering and have been using my usual MIG dark wash for a pin wash, as has been recommended, but it looks way too dark to me.
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Put the bird food out, went upstairs and looked out of the window to watch them appear to find this! Never seen one in my garden before, he (I think) was unsuccessful in his search for breakfast, looked around a bit then flew off.
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I do like the work you do, very nice weathering on the PWM how did you achieve that?
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Thanks for the comments, I will def start using the graphite stick 🙂
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Hi, I was looking at your posts about the Graphite stick treatment. I've got an exhibition in a few weeks, my first! I want to get the best possible running but I've never really tried graphite, bought a stick a while back but it's just sat in the toolbox! I was wondering, would you clean the track at all prior to a show or is just constantly using the stick all the time enough?
Many thanks.
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Fantastic work, you've nailed the difference between the solebar and wagon body. Are they the Vallejo ready mixed washes you've used?
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Nice photo's there Stu 👍
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Keeping with the snake theme, we were at Sandwich Bay, in Kent at the weekend and saw this big Grass Snake followed by 2 inquisitive Sandpipers, probably thinking, that would be some meal!
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The Seacow looks great, more great work as always! 👍
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Sounds like you had a good weekend Stu, always good to see some more photo's of Sheepcroft. 🙂
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Some fine work there David. I'm glad you're enjoying the build, just think of the satisfaction seeing your first loco run over it. 👍
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I re-weathered the Sentinal and prepped a few others for weathering soon. Cleaned everything and made sure I had gloves on so hopefully no problems. I wanted the number on the Sentinal to look like it had been cleaned and has started getting dirty again, need to add some coal to it as well. Going to let it all dray now then I'll add some powders etc.
@NHY 581 Rob, when you did the 03, did you spray the whole lot, underframe as well lightly with Matt varnish before adding powders?
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Thanks for sharing the video Rob, your J70 looks very nice indeed.
How do you uncouple your stock at a show? Apologies if I've missed it in the thread. I've been trying a paddle on the end of a rod to lift the couplers up manually but it can be a bit awkward.
Thanks
Steve.
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7 hours ago, NHY 581 said:
Hi Steve,
Sounds like there was some oil lurking which has wicked up, under the applied weathering.
Clean the inside of the body and the joins on the body and top of the chassis using some IPA. I fear the weathering around the number may need removing using the IPA and then reapply.
The colouring though looks spot on.
Rob
Thanks Rob, I cleaned the outside but didn't look inside, every day's a school day! I think, sometimes trying to weather over a mistake can look contrived, so rather than weather over the scratch I prob will remove all the body weathering and re do it. I'm not sure why the paint hadn't stuck though.
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While I was practicing with the airbrush, I but the bullet and started on this Dapol Sentinel, using Railmatch frame dirt and roof dirt and working from the George Dent Weathering for Railway Modellers book I got stuck in. Despite drying for 24 hours and the model being cleaned beforehand the weathering seems to be chipping off in places, the next step is a wash in panel lines etc and I fear that no matter how careful I am some will come off and I'll end up removing the lot and trying something else. I also think there was some sort of residue where the body joins the underframe, I was hoping to weather over that.
The Ruston has had the Army lettering removed using T cut and is waiting for the next bit, while I decide how to do it.
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Steve's 4mm workbench. Lima class 47 re vamp, 08 weathering and Hornby 25
in Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding
Posted
Thank you.