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sb67

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  1. Can anyone confirm the numbers of Seacow, YGB, wagon numbers that carried a lighter grey livery, yellow stripe and black lettering and data panels. I've seen a caption in the excellent Modelling BR Engineering wagons bookazine that said the first 20 or so carried that livery, so that would be DB 980000 - 980020? I have seen a photo of DB 980023 and that was in the darker grey and white lettering. 

     

    Many thanks. 

  2. I've been using these Lifecolour Liquid pigments on the Dogfish and learning a few things about them.

     

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    The two panels on the right have had a coat of matt Varnish applied and the left hand panel has not. The pigments are very thin and there is a bit of a difference with adherence, though not much. 

     

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    They do, however spray very well at a lower pressure than normal and that is built up with thin coats. It was left to dry over the weekend, and I found that it could still be removed using the remover that come in the box. I was going to use that as a base for more washes but I'll have to give it a coat of varnish first otherwise I fear it all coming off. I may well take a bit more off first allowing a bit of the livery to show through, I'll have to find a suitable pic to work from. 

     

     

    • Like 2
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    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  3. More stunning work James, love the effects you've got, the BR Blue showing through in places and the nameplate scarring are just sublime! 

    I'm trying to put some 'scratches' on a TOPE wagon and working from a photo, I'm using a 5/0 brush but I can't get them to look right yet, they just look like blobs of paint on top of the faded livery colour.

    Do you thin the paint at all when you do work like that? 

    • Friendly/supportive 2
  4. When you say paint it wet, do you just mix it with water, and once dry a water-soaked cotton bud to remove it? 

    I find the airbrushing a bit hairy but very effective and by no means essential, one slip of the finger and way too much paint comes out! 

    I've also learnt that things take a lot longer to dry sometimes, I'm in the James Makin school of thought now of waiting weeks for a coat of varnish to fully harden. 

    The enamel washes take a while to dry I found as well. 

  5. Good to see an update Steve. The 08 is looking very nice, love the fading. something I want to do myself at some point.

    I've been practising fading on some wagons, the one on the right is the original colour and the one on the left has had a pass of a Lifecolour dust wash from an airbrush. 

     

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    I also faded this using Humbrol Dust wash and a flat paint brush. 

     

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    I really like the Dogfish as well, something I've started on. I'll be happy if I can get them to look half as good as yours! 👍

     

    • Like 5
    • Informative/Useful 2
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  6. Carried on a bit if work on the Dogfish, I could not get the liquid pigment to stay on the factory finish using a brush so resorted to the airbrush, I'll let it dry for a few days,  this will be a base coat for the other rusty colours to put on.

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    While I had the airbrush out I started on this Tope, I'd like to replicate the rust scars seen on the wagons, caused by unloading using a grab, not sure how to do that yet but I made a start on the interior and  fading the paintwork. 

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    • Like 6
  7. That coach is looking good David. The lazerglaze makes a big difference over other glazing,  I've used glue and glaze sparingly in the past, applied with a small paintbrush, it's not too thin and could get messy on those small windows, but I've found it dries almost invisible. 

    Good tip to blacken the edges of the glazing but make sure the felt is permanent and won't react or run with any glue or varnish, maybe do a test first, how do I know...........! 

    Good luck with those small windows. 

     

    • Thanks 1
  8. One thing I'm learning that isn't always mentioned in books or magazine articles is when applying enamel washes or paint over a factory finish at least a day or two or even longer is needed for the paint to harden sufficiently to enable another layer to be put over the top! 

    So, while I wait for the washes to dry, I'm going to have a go at these Dogfish, I've got a magazine article from BRM to follow that uses Lifecolour acrylic paints, so I'll see how I get on with those. 

    First up the handrails are pretty shocking so I'll try and straighten them then make a start on the interiors.  

     

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    • Like 6
  9. I've repainted the grey on one of the wagons and removed all the transfers, did a bit of work on the interior as well. 

    Bit of a cruel close up but I've started to introduce a fade and discolouration using Humbrol Dust wash, it looks a bit streaky in the pic but not too bad in the flesh. 

    The citadel paint did not paint so well on a factory finish but I worked most of the streaks out. 

     

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    • Like 8
  10. 8 hours ago, westernviscount said:

     

    Thanks David, I've just got them but with the lighter grey it was the black lettering that I was after. That said there were so many variations that I could probably use them rather than get a whole sheet of transfers for one wagon.

    There used to be a sheet from Appleby Engineering I think but I don't think that they were made when they moved the stock to Cambridge. 

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