MikeH_83

Thanks both! Didn't want to make lots of track and then find out I made alot of mistakes lol

Hi all, I am currently making my track to 4-SF (00-SF) and I am wondering at what radius curves I should change from using the normal 2 rail track gauges to the 3 point ones? Also if I remember correctly with the 3 point gauges you haveto use the 2 side part on the inside of a curve? Cheers

I made a quick overview myself just to let people know that this is out there, I'm kind of liking it, although I found a few bugs with the android app, the ios one works flawlessly so far.

Well after trying a few different combinations I finally decided on using Colron Jacobean dark oak wood dye. I have given these 1 coat so far, I think they need a few more..

Thanks, Might give that a go! I shall order some of their paint and thinners as yours look good. Ah I see, Yeah I am trying to keep the "wood" effect as much as possible myself.

I can see where your coming from, But wouldn't airbrushing just hide the fact your using actual wood? I must admit a post all over blast with an airbrush would be alot quicker and easier.. What colour do you use? Do you have any pictures of the final result? Cheers

Thanks Brian, Good points, I shall stick some down tonight and test it! It should work as others have used wilko's dye before but like you say, better safe than sorry. I did wonder if that was enough supports or not.. It's 9mm ply and seems ok at the moment but I can certainly add a few more to be on the safe side. Cheers

Well most of today has been spent playing with my proxxon table saw, First cutting up some 1.5mm birch plywood into strips and then into individual sleepers.. It took awhile Not entirely finished but gives me a good head start. Thanks to Gordon S for the tip on making up a guide for the table saw for quickly setting up cutting widths, I made this one up in templot and works like a charm! My last bit was trying out some wilko's Jacobean dark oak wood dye on some to try and get the right colour.. I am not sure but I am thinking about either number 5 or 6 (around the middle of those if you can't read my tiny writing) is not far off, especially once you factor in a general weathering once laid down and ballasted.

Thanks very much, 4-SF is basically a narrower version of 00, It allows slightly better running characteristics and smaller gaps at the common crossing on points. From the testing iv'e done it seems to work well and others have had no issues so I thought I would give it a go

I thought it was about time to start sharing my project on here, I have been and will continue to document it on my YouTube channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/MrVenrith) but it would be nice to show off progress I make here for those that don't use YouTube and for general smaller things as I go along. This is my first layout since having a unfinished one 20 odd years ago when I was a teenager. I have built the fiddleyard already and used a 2ft radius with peco flexitrack as the entrance to it and all peco code 75 trackwork within the fiddleyard itself. That is all wired up using megapoints for the point control. I am then left with a U shape consisting of roughly 29ft length and 3ft wide. Control method is currently using a Digikeijs DR5000 using a mix of computer control, Z21 app and various wireless controllers. I have decided finally that my layout will be a countryside single track line with a passing station and a goods area at the top end and at the bottom I will have an industry which I have yet to design the track plan for, But that can come later! I know it might not offer as much running potential as a big mainline type layout but having grew up going to many preserved railways I think the whole single track line running through the countryside has stuck with me. This also allows me to build the layout and hopefully complete it within a reasonable timeframe and to see how 4-SF works and how durable hand built track is (More on that below) I am not sure where to set this layout yet, I would prefer somewhere midlands or further south but I do like LNER, LMS and Southern loco's so for now I am working towards that. Timeframe is also something I am torn between, I am currently trying to decide between 30's, early 50's or 60's (for the steam and diesel traction) I have decided to handbuild all my trackwork (which I might regret later) to 4-SF, This should provide some nice running whilst not having to play about too much with wheelsets. I am going with functional chairs and ply sleepers, I decided on using 3-bolt AS1 chairs because although I cannot 100% decide on a location and timeframe it at least covers more bases and to be honest most people probably won't look that closely. This is the current track plan, At the bottom of the picture you can see where the line to the industry will run, I have yet to design this. The headshunt for the goods yard might also need extending but I can do that later. This is the final plan though as a whole as I have been playing about with ideas for years and I really need to start! Also I have printed off the track plan and placed it all down on cork now ready for track building. This is the bottom end of the trackplan as it exits the fiddleyard, Also this is where the industry will go as I have a little more space to use in front of the fiddleyard access area. I have dropped the boards quite low for this section (I couldn't do that everywhere due to things underneath and other obstacles. I know open frame might have been easier but oh well.. Either way this should allow me to do some interesting scenics! This is the station and goods area, Might be a little difficult to see from this angle but the station will hold a large train and 4 coaches I think. Also ignore the incline.. that was for another idea I had awhile ago that didn't pan out!

Awesome! Although I have a mix of B7-C10 points, most on curves and some are curviform..yikes! Because of the curves it might be easier doing it another way though.. Not sure yet!

Awesome I shall try using that method! I've got plenty of rail now so it won't hurt if I make a mistake or 2. That looks really useful so if you ever get to making some for sale then let me know Any tools that make the job easier are much welcomed

Which jig is that for the V and wing rails? Is it the EM society one or another make? I have ordered the em society one to see what it is like as doing the vee's and wing rails are the one part I have not tried yet! I need to find some of that 0.5mm copperclad too then, Urgh another 2-3month wait from c&l then lol. There must be an alternative source somewhere! Yeah I have spent ages going over plans and changing things and It would be nice to get going! I know I could fit alot into the space I have but I decided to keep it more simple and small to see how handbuilt 4-SF track went, I didn't want to start a huge project myself (although you could say handbuilding about 26ft of track with functional chairs just for the main loop is a huge project) but it would be nice to see how long it takes, how it holds up to the temperature fluctuations in the loft over the years, And also allows me to save up for a house by not having to buy 100's of point motors and detector modules etc etc. Still whatever you go for trackwise enjoy the journey and start a layout thread too

I don't at the moment, Only a YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/user/MrVenrith I really should get a thread going on here too but I need a name for my layout first!

I am just starting my adventures into 4SF so I cannot really give any advice yet (Just made my fiddleyard using peco and about to start making my main 4SF track) but I don't blame you for looking at it. I am sure others who have had successes with it will be along to post soon

I think he must be slowly getting on top of things, I had one of my orders come through before Christmas and just waiting on the last 1 now. I am sure it'll all come together in the end

Oh that I didn't know.. I might just use these then Makes things easier. Thanks

I know those peco joiners don't have a complete prototypical look with that bulge at the bottom which grips the track but at least it's very good at keeping the track aligned. Can't decide between that or the plastic one's myself!

Well I got my proxxon working today, Tried cutting a few sleepers. First the saw blade that was fitted cut the ply a little rough which then needed tidying up, I switched it for the fine blade that it came with as part of the package and as you can see from the upper most sleepers it cuts them quite nicely indeed. Only minor downside was when cutting them down to individual sleepers they enjoyed going flying as they are very small and light lol. Right time to buy more wood!

Awesome, I look forward to seeing some pictures of it. Merry Christmas

Thanks, I ended up buying one last night on ebay and also a sheet of 1.5mm ply to be playing about with

I reckon a Proxxon KS 230 would be around the £100 mark and the plywood sheets a few quid each for about an A4 size sheet, which would do a fair few sleepers. But I do agree that it's probably not so cost effective unless I have other uses for it.. Is it any good for cutting up foamex? Just thinking about building templates etc hmm

Well I have put in my second order to get the last of the bits I need to start the layout.. I am not fussed if it takes a month or so as I can be getting on with other stuff to do with the trackwork. However when that get's close to completion and if I havn't received my goods I will just make a polite call to see if there is an ETA. Would it be nice to get them really quick.. sure, Am I bothered by abit of a wait? Not so much. But I can understand why some people are the opposite due to deadlines or an urgency to get on or one of many other reasons. Now Phil doesn't have any more shows this year hopefully he can concentrate on trying to catch up a little.. I would hate to see him fail and I'm sure many of us would like to continue to see these products made and sold.

Thanks Martin for that in depth explanation, I understand it fully now and can easily see why the pre-made crossings wouldn't work. The pre-made vee's might work if I can curve the rail easily enough beyond B to match the stock rails.. I might buy 1 to test it.. Or just try making them Thanks very much. Michael

Thanks, I will have a think if I really need a table saw then. I take it then that the vee part is pretty much always the same then on a straight/curved but it's just the bit after that and the rails all around it that's important. I will have a look and see which jig is best.. It'd be good to learn to make them tbh and alot cheaper. I will also get some of those check chairs. Thanks Ah yeah I had forgot about one till you mentioned it last night. I could see how much Tim Horn could do them for but I don't know how many I need yet unless templot has a counter hidden somewhere lol. It'd be easier than the C&l ones though as I need the shorter length to help offset the 4-sf gauge. Thanks for checking out the plan, I will have a look when I get home. Cheers