MikeH_83

I only got emails to say it was in packing and then one saying dispatched but I never got one from royal mail, But it still turned up just fine. You could always drop them a quick email to ask? It's good to prepared ready for future releases (I hope)

My D5000 has just arrived! Extremely well packaged and the detail is just amazing! Now I just wish I had somewhere to run it..

Looking back I think mine got dispatched on the same day (although mine late) so fingers crossed it arrives today but not holding my breath. Glad it's met your expectations

Me too, It'll probably arrive after Christmas now but either way, Not fussed. Great service considering they said it might not even get shipped out till the new year!

Ah the benefits to being single.. I just bought it

Iv'e just placed an order for a D5000, Got through first time. Costly but from what I have seen and heard, Worth it. It will be interesting to see if Dapol get anything wrong with their £400 A4 lol

You do vids?

Thanks I will check out his thread! I will check out the AJ's for handsfree coupling, I didn't want anything that would require damaging a model to fit (So I could easily return it to stock if required) and I dislike the uncoupling dance. Iv'e not got a thread up here yet, I will do hopefully over Christmas so I will let you know when I do. Just waiting for the ability to purchase the new p4 rtr class 24 as that seems a nice easy way to get into things and then I have to think about layout scenic ideas etc.. Lot's to do! lol

Very Impressive, I will have to have a try of foamex as I was thinking of starting with DAS, but your efforts have made me think foamex would be easier and less messy! What type of couplings do you use? I'm about to start weathering/laying track on my P4 shunting layout and I can't decide on 3 link, or put normal magnets or an electromagnet underneath but I need to decide before I stick it all down lol. Cheers

I will be interested to see which point rodding frets you have and which is better, I am at the point of trying to decide if I should use c&l or copperclad way or if I should do things properly

Maybe something for the 00-sf wiki, a place where people can list what model was used and whether or not b2b needed to be adjusted?

I am planning on a oo-sf layout after seeing what Gordon S has done and has said about it, My one concern? how often do you come across a modern rtr loco that isn't within oo-sf tolerances? My aim is to go mostly steam and I think these b2b's would be slightly harder to adjust? I only really plan on buying the newer stuff or hopefully one day kit making but I don't want to be spending alot of money on loco's to find alot of them out of gauge if it's going to be a pain. Diesels, coaches, wagons.. not a problem!

Thanks, I will try this method and see how it works

I know martins advice for the set is to lay the track down over 2 other peices and tap the rail with a small screwdriver but I found it bends the rail to the extreme. Is this how you make the set? Cheers

Ironically there has been a debate about coal staithes and unloading etc on the British railway moddelling group on facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/137680486384860/ I don't know if this link will take you too it or not https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10207123874161767&set=gm.496598980493007&type=1&theater Anyway the argument is still going on and there is pictures to suggest both ways were used but the correct way as per guidelines was to build it away from the siding. I think you can get away with whichever you choose but i'm sure someone more knowledgeable will come along soon

Just finished reading through all 86 pages.. yes that took awhile! It certainly has been through alot of changes, I hope you will be happy with this version. It will be nice to see it finished! pm sent

Thanks Martin, Yeah my thoughts was to have 16.2 at one sleeper, miss one and fix that at 16.5 and then when I glue the middle one it should flare out evenly I would have thought. Either way payday next week so I'll give it a go and see what happens. Anyway I don't wish to hijack this thread so back to topic..

Thanks, I will make sure to add the 16.5mm gauge to the shopping list. I did nearly go p4 but because I'm doing a large layout and I don't know what my abilities are I decided it's safer to stick to oo for now for that layout at least. Cheers

Thanks, Well it might be a few silly questions but just to be sure.. I am thinking about using peco code 75 and peco points for the non scenic section and then c&l flexi and hand-built oo-sf points for the scenic section. I assume there will be no issue in working all these together besides the sleeper height on the peco stuff? As I'm using flexi track then I won't need the 3 point gauges (as they are out of stock at c&l) and will just need the other 2 types? I was thinking of going down this route to make oo look alot better and because I want new rtr models to run off the shelf especially as I'm going steam which is why I won't go for EM. Thanks

Looking good there, The proper sleeper spacing really does make all the difference when it comes to oo. I see your using oo-sf for the pointwork? I have a few questions about that, Do you mind if I send you a pm?

Iv'e just read the article in the Hornby mag, Truly impressed by it, love all the little details as well as the combination of main line and branch. I am planning a loft layout and want that combination so it's nice to see an example done so well.

This layout is getting better and better, I'd admit it's took some time to go through all 85 pages though lol. One quick question, Have you found any/many loco's not able to handle the elongated helix? Any derailments or anything? If not then this seems the best option for my helix (if I have the space lol) Thanks