rue_d_etropal

Two things to be aware of, especially for anyone thinking about 3D designing for first time. Firstly it is incredibly addictive. you might intend only to design a few items but you always think of something else to design. ( I only wanted a WW1 narrow gauge protected Simplex , but ended up with a complete transport division!) . Secondly what ever scale you design any models in, someone will always ask for it in another scale, so build that into design. Using software that makes that easy is important. On the plus side though, once something is designed to your satisfaction, it can be stored away, and if people want it it is available on your Shapeways(or other preferred company) e-shop.

I agree with AdamsRadial. Unless you add at least another zero to that figure, you are going to be in similar world as using using a fax printer to do art prints. By the time there are cheap 3D printers that are as good as what professionals use now, there will probably be high street printing shops. Better to concentrate on the design side and let someone else do the hard work and maintenance. I know some are critical of Shapeways, but using them as part of a business plan, makes good sense. It costs you nothing except your time, and any prints you actually want doing yourself(a good idea when you are starting out). There are other companies, but suspect many of them will find out same things as Shapeways and have to modify pricing structure. Shapeways will always be one step ahead. At the moment for small items turn around time can be less than a week at normal prices. I frustratingly have one larger item in batch and that machine obviously takes longer, and the other items are sitting there ready to be boxed up.

Back commented ' I think once Frank has got it finished, Voie Libre will probably produce something. Seem to remember a short article a while back about the Mallets. Given tight radius of curves .short locos make more sense. Just is that the Mallet is one of the locos I am working on for 3D printing. It is interesting to see what is common to smaller locos. Given that the loco is classified as a 16 ton, it is a good cert that it is in effect 2 8ton Decauville locos. A slightly wider boiler, the cab is also slightly wider, but the windows in cab front are in exact same position as the 8 ton, suggesting standard parts. The cab is very roomy, and there seem to be a good crowd in cab in some photos!

As I live in Huncoat, the railway system that connected the power station(well actually on other side of mainline), the colliery and brick yards is of interest to me. I was recommended the Bylines article which I now have, but there is a lot of history and info not published yet I suspect. There were also what I think were two narrow gauge lines connecting brickworks to quarries. Both are marked as 'tramways' on map, and one was replaced by an arial ropeway, and became a well-known local sight. Overall it was a very extensive system, the power station in effect being just tagged onto the existing railway. Just realised, I probably drove over part of the exchange sidings today, as the M65 motorway cuts across the old power station tracks.

I suspect sunshine makes a change from all that snow! Are you planning to only use smaller wagons and small locos. The bogie wagons are pretty big on tight curves? And then there is the Mallet with tender.

Good to mix art with modelling, but railway modelling is itself art, just slightly different to what some think.

I think part of the problem has been how big the market would be. I suggested to one rep from another company that they should introduce their range of Spanish gear into UK, but was told too many would complain it did not look right, when in fact most people would be happy to have something rather than nothing. I think they might have actually done what I suggested(but not as a result of me saying it though), and now Peco have found there is even more interest in a UK type product. Given the resurgence of electric tramways in UK, there is a need for more models suitable for UK modellers. Most available are HO scale.

A simple non motored alternative might have been nice, and probably cheaper. The assumption that everything has to be electrically driven is short sighted, unless you are targeting mainly DCC supporters. On a similar idea, how about re-introducing the r2p signals that Ration did for a while. The simple mechanism did not suffer from motor burn out. They also needed less depth under board than the Dapol ones.

just a pity they have gone for a loco already done. I know some want more detail, but all the old Airfix model needed for most people was a better motor. If they do the double framed and military versions then it is worthwhile. Might have been better to doing some pre-grouping coaches. People are crying out for these and neither Hornby or Bachmann have delivered yet. For a first tender loco, how about something different such as a GER E4 , No one has done a 2-4-0 loco yet.

I think of the reasons for fewer pre-grouping layouts , is more to do with shortage of suitable rolling stock, in particular coaches. There are now quite a few pre-grouping locos available. Still plenty of models for 3D printing.

For any info and help on 15in gauge railways and modelling them, have a look at the Gn15 online forum the Gnatterbox. Initially set up for (G?) scale Colin soon brought in O scale modelling, although some had already being playing with O9, including me. I had thought about possibility of using Triang TT gauge as scale and gauge matched 1/32nd scale RH&DR., but my interest in that gauge is more towards minimum not miniature gauge. There is a model of the armoured RH&DR train available. Think it is one of the military modelling companies, but it is intended as a static model, so might be difficult to motorize. One possibility for 9mm gauge would be to use bodies from Continental TT(1/120 scale - 2.5mm/ft) which would be nearer 1/3rd size on 1/4 gauge track.

I think that given most OO9 locos have motor in cab, having a space is a bonus. Would not be that difficult to put basic detail in. If the price is as mentioned, then that is a lot lower than other r2r Oo9 planned.

I think that according to the review of the NLR book in Railway Modeller, that the drawings will be in volume 2. Is there a date for publication yet. No hurry, but I would not want to miss it. If it does include the drawings then I am more tempted to buy volume 1 as well.

It is still only an idea at the moment. Most of the models I have so far done are locos and wagons, but I have attempted one diesel railcar. I want to try some coaches to see how I get on with the various curves. Terry, to try and answer your questions. Quality of finish is something that concerns some when it comes to 3D printing. Personally I am happy with the basic nylon plastic, but it is grainy. The harder and finer plastics do cost more. In theory every part of model can be produced, but I tend to start with bodies(one piece including roof, and leave it up to others to see what they want underneath. For 4mm scale it may be easier to use propriety parts. Bogie sides are no problem. Difficulty can be different gauges used, for complete bogies or chassis. Plastic thickness can be an issue with smaller scales. Unfortunately it is not possible to 3D print totally clear plastic, so window glass is still a bit tricky. Etched brass has the advantage of being thinner, not obviously more skill to build. One reason I might myself prefer a Gauge 1 model is that it is easier to handle wall thicknesses. I normally work down to minimum wall thickness of 0.9mm , maybe 0.8mm, and even then the print process can make it slightly thicker or thinner. The print processing is getting a lot better. 2mm scale should be possible, but a lot of detail is lost, and thickness of coach sides is relatively thick. I have reduced designs down to Z scale. There are quite a few people doing 3D printed models for even smaller T gauge, and the better quality plastics are then worth while, as costs come down dramatically. Having said there are minimum thicknesses , which can still be a bit thick, it is possible to get it thinner at edges, so am insert for glazing may be possible. A lot depends on ho accurate the interior is going to be. One big advantage to 3D printing is that you can put most of your effort into the design, and then get someone else., or a company to do the printing. As 3D printing improves, then quality of the models improves. In theory I can use different companies to do the printing. I aim to get most of the model designed, but not necessarily every little detail(although more detail can be included on larger scale models). Hopefully this takes care of the main construction, and a modeller can add the details. I have not tried anything for standard gauge, so even something like buffers could be left to the modeller as everyone has their own preferences.

Just wondering. Is the book referred to, the one which has just been published? I had a quick look, and I think I must have missed seeing the drawings, otherwise I would have bought a copy on the spot. Wish I had re-read this thread before the weekend as I could have had another look at Manchester exhibition. No matter. As I was born near Rickmsansworth, I have an interest in anything local, but am now living in Accrington I am a bit far away to do local research. I am toying with the idea of a 3D printed model of the Oerlikon stock, as I have improving my 3D CAD skills over past couple of years, but have not done any standard gauge trains yet. I am possibly not the best skilled designer, but what I have done so far is not too bad, and others do like what I have produced so far. Scale wise I am interested in many, and have managed to resize my designs for many scales, unlike many who seem to prefer to stick with 4mm scale. A gauge 1 model might be my preferred scale, assuming the 3D printing machine can cope with the length. A 4mm or 2mm scale model might fit my idea for a model of the Rickmansworth Church Street station though. All I need now are some simple scale drawings and I can start(assuming I can fit it into my very busy life, alongside all the other models I would like to design). I use an online 3D printing service, which has a big advantage of not requiring any upfront money for equipment or materials. 3D printing might not be best method, but for me it is the least difficult. Combining laser cutting, silhouette cutting and 3D printing would be a good way to design what would then be a kit, but at the moment I feel more confident with 3D printing a complete coach body.

It might be worth while contacting Giles Barnabe, as he produced book back in 2003. Could not see anything in the book, but sure to be more info.

For livery, I would be interested in one in Southern(it makes it easier to resist temptation) , preferably early. Another might be when one was running on EKR.

August 2016, plenty of time, could build a couple of new layouts in that time Those kit built boards do help, as it tends to be board design and construction that slows me down. One reason I liked the APA boxes.

Good to to you and the layout at Rainhill. Weather not the best. At least the M6 seemed quieter though. Following our discussion on wagons, the bogies are now done. Look forward to the progress on layout, as you are now under less pressure to do more on it. Forget the wet weather, get modelling in the nice dry indoors.

toboldlygo said that probably explains some odd things on our phone as well. Have not had emails bounce, but sometimes wonder if they have reached their destination, when no-one acknowledges them.

I am a fan of insulfrog(dead) frog points, because wiring is a lot simpler. Peco points are even better than they were when electrofrogs were introduced over 40 years ago. Motors are also much better, so slow running is much better. There is one improvement I make to my points and that is to connect wires between diverting tracks so not dependent on power going though tips of point blades. That usually fixes one of the main problems. Keeping track clean is important, and as long as you don't want to run heavy trains then applying some graphite to top of rails ill keep the muck away. Especially useful in difficult to reach locations. One thing I would like to see is some proper thorough testing to compare insulfrog and electrofrog points, as it tends to be a case of different people favouring each, for what might be spurious reasons. I had thought about starting a thread on forum, with title 'Dead or (a)live?'. Thing is that , in theory, as long as one wheel on each rail is in contact with a powered rail, then the loco should continue to move, so any problem will be caused by something else, eg dirty track, or unevenness (which might be the top surface of the plastic on a dead frog being slightly higher than the metal rail). As I said, this really needs to be properly investigated, as I have come across too many problems caused by over-complicating things, especially when live frogs are used.

I think that one positive thing that has come from this magazine, has been that it has shown that there are still modellers willing to upgrade models or convert models into something else. Something many thought might be a thing of the past, with all the excellent(but too fragile) models coming out of China. Still a pity the magazine used old models, not creating something new as Atlas Editions have done for French models. I am still waiting for my missing magazine no 40, and the publishers say it should arrive soon. Reason for delay is that now the magazine has stopped there is only one monthly(???) collection from their office. Poor excuse, especially considering it was their delays that resulted in issue No 40 not getting into many shops.

Wakefield- hopefully we will be able to have a chat this time. I am there with my 3D printed models.

Sounds a good reason to get over to Rainhill show. They have not listed any of the OO9 layouts. I had feared it would clash with Wakefield but luckily that is not the case.

I have been using this method of auto shuttle for many years. used on models from OO up to G gauge. I had some timer units from another supplier, but over the years some have failed, but the Gaugemaster one has performed perfectly. I am not certain but Gaugemaster sell two different packs and I have the one for bigger trains. I had assumed it was probably just different diodes, but there might also be some slight difference in the unit. As I have used shuttle on many layouts, I have diodes from various model railway suppliers. Pity I did not read this before show yesterday as I could have asked one of the people at the exhibition I was at, as he supplies varios electronic bits including diodes and some DCC stuff. I do have some DCC fitted locos, which run happily on analogue, as most USA models do. Anyway when running one of these on shuttle, there is a slow build up to power set when locos start, but stops I think are still fairly abrupt, more dependant on momentum. Thus you can have a more realistic start up with chipped locos running on analogue. Main problem I have had is when wheels on short locos stop on same place, I have found after a while pick up is not as good and sometimes trains do not start. Part of the fault might be dirty pickups, as shuttle locos tend to run for longer periods on my layouts. I do use a graphite stick(carpenter's pencil) to improve pickup, as most of my trains are short and a little bit of slip is not a problem. As some of my locos are old LIma, they do not tend to stop abruptly, and as they warm up the stopping distance can increase, so if I as building a new layout I might to tempted to put in diodes every inch or so, so stopping point can be changed, and also different locos(in particular DMU/EMUs) can be used. One thing I tend to make sure of, is use decent toggle switches(Gaugemaster) as I have heard of problems using cheap slider switches. If I need a lot, I might also consider making my own using chocolate block connectors as they are cheap and I probably will not need to reset them during an exhibition. Luckily I have a big bag of toggle switches so will use those. One thing I have just remembered. The current Hornby trainset controller, not only doesn't have a 16v output, but seems to have a modification which allows power to build up rather than reversing immediately. A common problem of 'trainset' locos played with by children is worn out gears caused by rapid reversal of power to motor, especially at high speed. I am not sure if other manufacturers have done anything similar, but it might be useful for a shuttle operation.