doilum

PM me for a list of A3s running with the New Type tender in BR days.

Try putting the sidings on a slightly higher / lower level. Just a few millimetres will make a massive visual difference.

Sorry for extra post but we seem to have lost the edit function! 60107 Royal Lancer: withdrawn 9/63. Double chimney from 6/59. Conversion to LHD 12/52. Kept same GN tender throughout.

Sorry I have just read the original post. Remember it will need to be converted to LHD using the plastic firebox blackhead that was originally supplied in error! The tender will need to be modified to a non corridor type or scratch build a coal rail GN body. Transfers come from Fox. They ain't cheap and a very delicate, especially the tender sides. Severn models do a full nameplate pack at reasonable money.

There are several useful threads on this topic. Not sure if my St Frusquin thread belongs in that category but it ended up as a working model. Slater's pickups worked fine in the pre drilled holes. There is an issue with the wheels being a sloppy fit on the axles which was resolved by buying replacement axles from Slaters and carefully filing the shoulders of the square ends to fit the Hachette wheels. I sourced some of the piston parts from Ragstone models to mix and match with the ones in the kit. The biggest pain are the "nickel silver" motion parts which are a perculiar alloy that is difficult to solder. Much perseverance, several types of flux and a healthy contribution to the sweat box eventually won the day. The instructions were designed to keep you hooked as you kept paying £8 a shot until issue 125 was delivered. You might want to come up with a more conventional build plan. This will also help avoid some of the errors, mistakes and incorrect parts that were part of the journey. These were all corrected by Hachette in due course but only after people had fallen foul of them. I strongly recommend reading as much as possible from previous builders, cataloguing parts and deciding exactly what you want to build before touching any tools.

If Jim recommends 1.5mm I would be tempted to follow the instructions. Thin shim washers can be added later if required.

Are you sure it was a she. Tom cat spraying reaches three feet. I have never truly eliminated the rust from the front of the Dutton chassis after a regular visitor made it his signing in spot. The rest of the chassis is still near perfect after almost 40 years.

Shelves are like waistlines. They seem to acquire an extra inch or so over the years. This might allow a decoupage approach to a low relief background. There is a lot to be said for a scenic test track, if only as a background to display your later creations / acquisitions.

Did it sit level and correct first time?

In the 90s a solitary 21 ton hopper wagon was stranded in the middle of the former United Glass works in Castleford where it remained for a good decade or more. These sidings were accessed via a wagon turntable with stock propelled by a tractor.

I should also have mentioned the instructions. They won a Design Council award and are the best I have ever seen. Some years ago a manufacturer of budget loco kits told me that he would have to put £20 on the price of each kit to have instructions of that standard. The kit wasn't cheap at just shy of ,£100, well over a week's wage at the time but the quality would match most current kits.

To I had the answer a couple of years ago. It is now in the care of the National Coalmining Museum. It was in one of a series of text books written about 120 years ago for men studying for their mining exams. It came from my late grand father. Chemical composition is only one factor in deciding the characteristics of a particular coal. The density, physical structure and consistency were all important. The previous generation could identify coal from an individual seam by sight, feel and dirt left on the hands. Different coals burned at different temperatures suiting different applications. Anthracite had a high calorific value and burned almost smokelessly.

Far smarter than the blue era?

The more the vegetation, the shorter the survival time?

The tenders were quite easy ( I have done five) using a strip of 10 thou Plastikard and insulating the mounting screw using part of a discarded fountain pen cartridge. I am under no illusions that something with outside valve gear like the WD might be more challenging so I will probably start with the J25. Still it should provide a low cost project for the winter lockdown!

Exactly why I intend looking at insulating the loco frames from the superstructure.

If I recall correctly from Jim Snowdon's build, the errors in this kit were much more fundamental. These were the pre internet days when it was more difficult to check the accuracy of diagrams and the lack of a surviving prototype wouldn't have helped. Now of course it is very different and we have the 82045 as an amazing resource. This is also, I suspect a hand drawn kit from a previous century when expectations were lower and it wasn't unknown for the draughtsman to take small liberties in order to stay within the confines of the available etch. As part of my ,82004 journey I discovered that the original Triang model was redrawn to fit an existing mechanism and is far from being dimensionally correct. One day, three hours after I finally finish ,82004, Bachman will announce a RTR 3MT for around £500!

No need for isolated draw bar if the frames are insulated and the draw bar attached to the superstructure. Hi

Mentioned elsewhere recently. I have a sheet of thin ply with a strip of hardwood along one side. The cutting mat sits on top. I have a cheap flat metal square of 30x20 CMS and this is my default method of cutting Plastikard. Weapon of choice is the Xacto #2.

The bit they miss is that all kits should be built DC. Only when fully tested and sorted and running perfectly should a chip be installed. Otherwise the invisible gremlins of dcc make mechanical and current collection issues difficult to isolate and resolve.

I have a couple of tender locos which use the American collection system. Eventually I plan to fit a chip to allow them to use the club layout which is dcc. The tender chassis is totally isolated from the body, I need to do the same with the loco to avoid any potential shorting out.

Bow ended? Cut overlength and shape with a Dremel to finish with a file.

And to prove my point: on what has been a lively and quick witted thread, no-one has replied!

Coal: justification to run a gaudy PO wagon that takes your fancy, or has links to your ancestral roots. Malted barley: vans or in sacks in open wagons with tarpaulins. Hops: vans. Probably railway owned but linked to the south east. Bottles: probably vans. In BR days an excuse for a shock van or two. Final product: ditto. Pre war, perhaps an excuse to commission a couple of vans in the brewery colours. Enjoy. One of my early layouts, Kirby Riverside, had a brewery to hide the fiddle yard. A wagon turntable might help entertain.

Some very careful measurement from one end to draw the line over the roof. Follow the line carefully with a piercing saw to create a score line before attempting to cut through. If the surplus is scrap I might be tempted to use the chop saw or even band saw leaving a fraction to clean up with a file.