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doilum

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Everything posted by doilum

  1. Not sure why but XR3s seemed to last a little longer than the lesser models. Possibly because they were prized and polished or maybe because they were built in Belgium.
  2. It isn't one of the last ones that is precious, find a mint early example before they made it increasingly softer and easier to live with. ( I had examples of both back in the day!)
  3. Invertrain have a wide range of resin windows. I have used them several times on my own and club layout buildings. If you don't see exactly what you need have a word with Chris. It may be possible to get a custom window at reasonable cost.
  4. Scratch building: definitely in the chassis fit the rods camp!
  5. Use the etch rods and a bit of scrap etch to make a datum rod. This gives you something to go back to if problems arise later. It is my starting point when scratch building.
  6. Working in 7mm I have built kits with the second option but these tend to be a triple laminate. I might have concerns over the support for the joint with just two. When scratch building it is usually option one as it allows me to get away with just a double lamination or, better still, file the rods from a single piece of solid bar.
  7. And I should have added: once complete and clean, apply a coat of etch primer!
  8. You'll have to join the poor people in Pontefract!
  9. Prefer to clean individual components with a fibreglass brush immediately before soldering. Large parts can be cleaned with 2000 grade w/d paper used wet with a little washing up liquid.
  10. Don't forget to drill the holes for the chairs to match the local pattern. Sometimes the ends of the sleeper would be trimmed off at an angle to prevent water accumulating and soaking into the end grain. Being heavy items set by eye they were not quite perfectly level, though not far away.
  11. Outside my knowledge zone, but last night's Top Gear had background shots of disused railway stock on Salisbury Plain. No doubt someone will be able to identify the various items.
  12. Just a personal recollection. Circa 1970, I remember rugby cup tie specials using corridor stock. Grubby with torn / worn out seating, they were probably only used for this particular Saturday traffic.
  13. Those are the ones I had in mind. Install lighting to the mill in series to drop the voltage to the motor?
  14. Agreed. Rubber O rings might be a source of useful belts. As a belt connected motor does not have to be as perfectly aligned as one driving fine gears it might be possible to mount the motor in a rubber sleeve. Taking the fine gear option, look at the work of Giles on his radio controlled lorries, cars and cranes. These tiny units come from China at a ridiculously low cost and are extremely smooth running.
  15. We had a series of workshop technicians, old school guys who could fix anything, who kept all the cupboard chisels in perfect condition and the bench chisels not far behind. Anyone abusing a chisel could expect a length of 2x1 around their backside. Other staff brought chisels, garden shears and mower blades, which for the price of his daily liquid lunch, he would make perfect again. Happy days!
  16. I would have thought that around 6-10 rpm would appear correct on a model
  17. Try a Google search for "12volt motor gearbox". A good selection available. Motor speed can be reduced by fitting a light bulb in series.
  18. A thin SHARP blade will make it much easier for the jigsaw to follow the line. I have built a layout from hardboard (it lasted much longer than expected) but used ply for the track bed. Hardboard not only is liable to warp but doesn't take a pin easily.
  19. Looking great. In a perfect future world all brake gear will be 3,D printed!
  20. Happy to recommend Screwfix " no nonsense" white primer / undercoat paint. £9:99 for 2.5 litres. Almost as cheap as the ten year old leftovers from under Uncle Fred's stairs. Needed a good stir but first coat has covered well. This is now on my list of go to products.
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