doilum

Only a tiny dint is needed to get a 1mm pilot started.

A sliver of Microstrip can be used to compensate for the material lost to the saw. The trick is to reassemble the parts against a steel straight edge just like building a Kirk kit.

This is another job for the rivet drop tool.

Speaking from the safety of the larger scale, the real challenge is that of current collection. A topic surprisingly rarely discussed on this forum.

Just a head up. Check the crankpin throw on the wheels you have purchased. For many years I had that "extra" set of wheels that wouldn't clear the footplate on an LNER N2. This will have the same challenge.

And the answer is: not as good as you will be when you finish. There have been several excellent threads on soldering skills, a complete soldering iron kit can be had for under £25 and etched kits contain plenty of scrap to practice on, what is there not to like!

A word with your local tyre fitter might result in some freebies from the scrap bucket. The weights need to be replaced each time a tyre is fitted.

Agreed. I have probably described this elsewhere but I start a scratch build with a coupling rod template made from scrap brass. The wheel spacing is marked out and drilled 1mm. All broken drills are saved and used to peg the template to the work. I am confident enough about this method to drill each frame and rod independently . One advantage of this method is that the template can be retained for a future repeat project, just remember to mark the front end.

Outstanding. Time to get Sgt. Pepper dirty!

Hacksaws. The name tells you what you need to know. Try a variety of piercing saw blades cutting outside of the line. It can help to make a plywood support plate that clamps to the edge of your work table. This should have a long slot cut into it and will support the work. Small G clamps will keep the workpiece steady and you now have a chance to cut straight lines. If the work is more than 2mm thick the hacksaw might be the answer. Confession Time. I feed thin sheet brass on a sacrificial piece of hardboard through the band saw leaving a good millimetre which can be trimmed back with a Dremel. I still have ten digits! I tend to make frames from strip brass using the machined edge at the top. This avoids the need for very long cuts.

I would be wary of using any mitre box for this job. Use a set square and a blade to score an accurate line and then cut with either a razor saw or piercing saw. I have a sheet of thin ply with a hard wood strip down one side that fits exactly under my cutting mat. This allows me to ensure that my flat set square and the material remain true.

AM owned Lagonda. Deloren anbody?

Agreed. Try a tiny drop of Fairy in the soak too. Look on the internet for plastic pipettes. Multiple uses for modellers especially if you have an air brush.

Brave man. 82004 sits half finished with motion issues to resolve. Perfect project for next winter's lock down?

Genuine Fairy? A new " improved" /" eco friendly" "fragrance enhanced" version? Just asking as I have never had a problem before.

I have a drawing labelled Johnson no 253 class 1P. If this is any use, PM me an address and I will put it in the post.

Not sure on this perfect logic. Without wanting to critisise any kit, I have found brass wagons and coaches far more fiddly than a good basic loco kit. The reason being that the devil is in the detail and brass wagons come with lots of detail. No reason not to start with a loco that has been recommended by other builders.

The 7mm ones are a joy to build if that helps. My favourite is the 16" though.

To remove a section of webbing try a short length of piercing saw blade in a pin vice.

Has now gone to a new home in Southampton. Not sure how to delate the thread.

Has now departed south to a new home in Southampton. Thanks to everyone who helped. Not sure how to close and remove the thread.

My two steam obsessions in one shot!

An alternative to cutting out a big hole in a relatively expensive sheet of brass is to take two strips of brass (the outer edges of the footplate) and cut two smaller pieces to fill in the ends. This is where homemade plywood jigs come into their own. All of my scratch built tank engines use this method, partly laziness and partly a good Yorkshire upbringing.

And this is where it all started forty years ago, Christmas 1980. Sadly it never was quite finished ( the inside valve gear is still in the box) but it had a hard and happy life and now needs a full rebuild with probably new wheels. One day........

RS one is similar. Very easy to use, less chance of slipping or overtightening.