doilum

A good day what with the cricket and other distractions.

A good day what with the cricket and other distractions.

Any idea of the colour? Still wearing the WD paint? Apparently the Pepper locomotives were overhauled in house at British Oak. Can you confirm?

Just needs its own chassis now!

Whilst in the " nothing to lose" mode: go the whole hog and letter it "PEPPER". Apply Matt varnish and then let it harden for several weeks. This can then be "knocked back" with 2000 grade used wet and / or a fibreglass pencil before adding the usual layers of grime. Selective rubbing can be used to eliminate the wonky bits of lining and the letters should just appear as a ghost in the weathering. Unless someone has definite first hand experience, I remain unconvinced by the black suspecting that it was actually a dark dirty MOD green. Pepper#4 was bought directly from the WD by the opencast contractors and I can't see that it would justify a full repaint. The photos of the jinty suggest that it was still in its BR black and had had the side tanks painted over.

If you haven't already got some, order a set of pin vices at the same time. They make perfect mini tap wrenches. Great also for holding crankpin bushes whilst cutting the thread for Slater's O gauge wheels.

Agreed. Try white emulsion paint and work in very small amounts of black and light blue keeping the tint lines horizontal unless you want a Turneresque sky.

How much of the pipework is to do with heritage passenger regulations?

The canopy is 90mm wide. I guess the columns are 50mm apart. Measurements taken from a box of random parts left over from a factory roof build forty years ago.

I trust you have found the narrow gauge section of this forum. Tucked away near the end of the menu.

I have used Onduline on several projects. 7 feet is a frustrating size as they are 2 metre sheets ! Little brother used the metal sheets from a place in Hull. A bit more expensive but not stupidly so.

Put the insulation on top of the roof and cover with Onduline or similar. No loss of internal headroom and much better long-term weather protection.

Best cut out and slide the others down. Add replacements from the spares box.

Agree entirely. I recall the first time I tried to fix a handrail knob ( in the theory a perfect task for the RSU) and watched the tiny casting evaporate in a big white flash. It is all about learning about what it WON'T do.

Thanks for posting. For the first time I feel like a soldering "god". For the benefit of those new to soldering or plucking up the courage to have a go, this is an almost perfect how NOT to do it lesson. Take the RSU demonstration: Clean both the strip and the tube. Apply flux to the tube and tin with the tiniest amount of solder. Apply flux to the strip, earth, and hold the tube in place with s lolly stick or similar. Zap with RSU and watch the tiniest seam of solder appear. Perfect job. Using acid flux on a complete running loco????? 'Fraid not! The only way to neutralise the flux is with CIF or similar and copious amounts of water otherwise all the mechanism becomes the victim of the green gunge. The only purpose of this rant is for the benefit of those just about to try soldering for the first time.

Clean off paint for a good earth and contact area. Power at max Have tweezers and scalpel with an old blade to hand. The instant heat does its job, the tools separate the parts. Clean up and start again! Forgot to add: the Dremel is good for cleaning up!

Had mine for well over 25 years. When finally, I killed it ( usually set at "11") they took it back and rebuilt it for less than half the cost of a new one. One tip for crocodile clips ( the size found on battery chargers), I ground off the teeth on one side avoiding aforementioned problems. It is worth getting a spare earth cable which can be soldered to an earth plate. The thing is to discover what it can do, and more importantly, what it doesn't do well. It hasn't replaced my traditional soldering iron, it complements it. Well "them" as there are at least four on the ready to go rack. I won't try and compete with the experts but my three reasons for not wanting to be without it: Jobs can be tacked together with small blobs of solder from an iron when all is square and true the RSU completes the seam. With practice, the roof on a tank engine can be added after painting. They are great for dismantling a job gone wrong or rebuilding someone else's work.

Agree vey common. One extra detail is to slightly hump the road in the middle of the bridge suggesting that the road rose and fell to clear the railway. This way water could not pool on the bridge section. Don't forget a little camber too. Gordon Gravett is the go to author on roads.

Love the window frames. Pity there isn't a 7mm version.

For delicate items, if possible I solder them to a brass pin or length of wire this can be superglued through a tight hole or bent over and araldited inside.

On Houghton Street the stream disappears into a culvert.

I have a set of 4'3" austerity / J94 wheels that came from eBay some time ago. They are the early non self quartering design. One wheel is fixed on each axle. Can anyone remember what was the recommended locking solution back in the day, or what modern substance might be best. I was thinking of "green" Loctite but I would have to be fairly quick in getting the wheels quartered correctly.

As an outsider ( my interest in real mainline railways ends in 1968), the EWS livery is perhaps the smartest of all time, certainly of the post green diesel era. The GNER being close second.

Have a look at Went. Currently on the free to a new home page.

Was it the mobile stove used by nineteenth century street vendors to produce fast food jacket spuds?