NCB

Couple of slight problems. In attempting to finish off the above a nut unscrewed, and the whole thing rapidly became a disaster of solder and metal. Also, having ordered the 16BA stuff from Squires along with other stuff, the order arrived with the 16BA stuff missing (out of stock). Never mind; such things are there to challenge us! I have thought of an alternative way of doing the injector which may be better. May...

Ingenious! No, I won't be much of a Kitmaster threat. I'm planning another 2 or 3, for if I want any easy route to running the occasional BR train on my layout.

Garry Where do you manage to find the Kitmasters? I've managed to get 2 from the 3mm Society 2nd hand shop (all they had unmade), but keep an eye out on ebay and haven't seen any for some time. There was a load around a couple of years ago or so but being daft I didn't grab them. Nigel

Something those interested in Cambrian locomotives may be interested in; the HMRS have digitised the following drawings for me, so these are now available to order: 25455 0-6-0 small goods (Queen class rebuilt) 25458 4-4-0 small bogie passenger 5'6" wheels (Beaconsfield class) 25461 1200 gallon 4-wheel tender 25462 1700 gallon 6-wheel tender 26238 2-4-0 small passenger (Albion class) Think I have the classes right. The first four are 14mm/ft G.A. drawings prepared by Mike Lloyd from works originals, and are nice and clear. The fifth is an original works drawing, of the Albion class in original condition, so of limited use if you're interested in rebuilt condition like me. I ordered A2 sized drawings which are fine, works out at £6.50 per drawing for non-HMRS members including p&p, with a p&p reduction for multiple drawings. Finally, a question; does anybody know of a decent drawing of a rebuilt Albion, or indeed any other Cambrian locomotive drawings? The HMRS has a few, not yet digitised. The WRRC has a Mike Lloyd drawing, again good, of a Large Sharps 4-4-0. The NRM has a works drawing of Aston's 0-6-0, which I have, and a 0-4-4T, which I haven't (said to be poor condition).

Had a shot at producing an injector: Needs a bit of cleaning up, but seems the right size and proportions. The basis of it is a 16BA bolt and 3 16BA nuts. The vertical bit is 1.1mm micro-bore tubing. Forming a hole through the tube to take the bolt was easier than I expected; I started making a horizontal cut with an Xacto micro-saw blade, until a hole appeared in the tubing wall, then used a 0.7mm drill to bore through. Now run out of 16BA stuff! So ordered some more, for the other injector.

Remember visiting Bracknell somewhere around 1966. Was shocked. Seemed to be about half a street still standing and everywhere else flattened.

Some conversion!

Just as a matter of interest, is this to fit a room of that size, or part of a room? If it fills a room access to the tracks at the bottom is going to be awkward (for cleaning, etc), whereas if there's extra space at the bottom of the baseboard it's not an issue. Think I'd be tempted to pull the terminus down closer to the bottom, while still keeping some space between it and the passing station. It would also mean the (out in the countryside) track on the right is less obstructed. I'd suggest seeing if you can enlarge the operating area; cramped areas are no fun and there's always danger of knocking scenery. Nigel

Just seen this. Magnificent stuff. Thanks for the pics. Nigel

Been otherwise occupied for the last few days, but managed to squeeze a couple of things in. First the coupling hooks: And a look at the rear end of the engine for a change! Not the best pic to show the hooks. Each is an etch which folds back on itself to double the thickness. Holding the rear with pliers, solder is run round the edge, followed by a bit of shaping with a file. Bit more fettling to make sure the tail fits the slot in the buffer beam, and also doesn't project behind the beam (would interfere with the chasiss if it did). Then soldered in place from the rear; this minimises getting solder on the buffer beam. The other thing was to start sorting out castings for fittings, mainly from the 3mm Society's generous collection of such things. This is so that where necessary holes can be made or enlarged in the locomotive body to take them, before the final more delicate bit of soldering for details such as handrails takes place. Here's the tentative selection so far: Think these are close enough, maybe with a slight bit of modification. The major omission is the dome; not happy with what I've dug up so far. I have one dome I'm attempting drastic surgery on, but not sure how it'll end up. If all else fails, I'm in the process of getting to grips with 3D printing, and that may be the answer. The 16BA bolt and nuts on the right are the basis of an attempt to produce the injectors. The components are about the right size, so I'll see how it goes.

Think the weighbridge was stuck wherever it was most convenient, which gives us modellers a fair amount of leeway. True, with a single yard with just one entrance then it would probably be stuck near the entrance if there was room. But it could be stuck elsewhere. Like the curved crane road in the last plan. Breaks things up a bit.

Garry Here's a pic of a couple of GWR coaches (part of a Dean clerestory, plus Churchward toplight) done out in Railmatch: I find I don't mind the dull finish. For one thing, it hides minor imperfections better (than gloss)! The Dean is a Mallard kit reduced to 3mm, the toplight is Worsley Works sides stuck onto a body shell formed from a plastic B-set coach which the Society used to offer, but with the B coach sides replaced by Parkside clear coach sides. The main problem I find with Methfix is that the finer detail can break up; I've lost quite a few GWR shirt-button totems that way. On the other hand, lettering is usually OK. The brown is a bit darker than Precision brown.

Bit of detailing at the front. Added the two sandboxes: These add a useful bit of stability to the splashers, which were a bit delicate. Also added the steps to the front of the tanks, and the front buffer-beam lamp-irons, This is the sort of job I hate, soldering little bits onto the body when there's no positive means of locating them. Managed it eventually, although the lamp irons aren't the strongest. It's possibly one of those instances when a stronger solder than Carr's 188 would be an advantage.

Garry, I never varnish my coaches or locomotives. This is using transfers from the range PC Models produced for the 3mm Society back in the mists of time. However, apologies, I made a mistake. These are Methfix, not Pressfix. But they still require a dull or matt finish (I think, never tried them on gloss). So, for coaches I use Railmatch sprays which I think produce a dull finish. Then just apply the Methfix transfers. No varnish before or after. I have used pressfix-type transfers, from a different range, on wagons; I probably matt varnish afterwards, some time since I used them. I also use Modelmaster waterslide transfers on wagons; gloss varnish before applying them then matt afterwards. Having said that just looked at Howes' Railmatch pages, and it appears that GWR coach brown has just been continued, so I'd better stock up if I can find some. If not, I'd use Precision sprays, but find these seem to clog more easily.

Up until now I've never used varnish, partly because the transfers I use are pressfix type which require a matt finish anyway. I use Railmatch paint sprays, which are maybe dull rather than matt, but OK. There will come a time when I want to use waterslide transfers though, and I'm not sure what I'd do. One possibility is to use Halfords gloss car sprays of around the right colour, if I can find one.

Mine bought early February still running OK. Possibly the best running OO steam locomotive I've come across.

Etchings for the bits around the smokebox back from PPD. Here they are (sorry about them being a bit out of focus): The non-prototypical joggle in the side frames is to make sure they keep clear of the back of the front drivers. The side frames sit directly above the chassis frames, which are also a bit narrower than prototype (explained earlier). Here are the bits in place. The front bit was curved to match the side frames and trimmed slightly before being attached. Meanwhile, I've ordered plates for GWR No. 33, the last survivor of the class which was withdrawn in 1951, from Guilplates.

First time I've seen a pic of one close up; thought they were rather more involved than that, more of a dome sitting within the mudhole rim. So the blob of Milliput I've used on occasions isn't too far out.

The PPD etchings for the front bits should be on their way. In the meantime, have formed the cab roof: I normally find this sort of thing goes easily, just shoving it through rolling bars then just a bit of tweaking. This one was reluctant! Maybe the nickel silver was a hard variety. In the end rolled it using tubes on a bit of old camping mat. Worked sort of, but the result was a mish mash of different curves. However, using small pliers with flat faces I managed to reduce the curves to something which fitted. The rainstrips on the edges on the other hand were dead easy. I'd half-etched these on the underside of the roof, and by sticking the half etch in bending bars and pressing the roof back they formed quite nicely. For a bit of light entertainment, took a pic of the loco outside the engine shed of my slowly developing 3mm layout:

Nice. I managed to pick up a couple of unmade Kitmasters a few months ago, but haven't had time to do anything with them yet. Did you remove the raised "lining bar" on the sides or use it to add the lining?

Now for a bash at assembling the footplate steps, while waiting for the new etchings to come back. Here's the step etchings: Each assembly has a main bit with a fold-up step at the bottom and a short tab at the top which fits in a slot in the footplate subframe. There's also a couple of small tabs at the top which fold outwards; these provide additional strength to the footplate attachment, and also help locate the half-etched detail layer which fits on top of the main bit. This detail layer really just adds the vertical flange part of each step. Here's two steps assembled: After bending up the bottom step and the top side tabs and checking the fit of the half-etch, the main bit was lightly tinned, the half-etch laid on top and held in position by an old pointed file, more flux applied, and the iron whacked on. Job done, except for the middle step, which needed its rear tab filed slightly so it fitted in the provided slot, before more flux and a dab of solder fixed it; it looks as though it's sloping in the pic, but that's an illusion. The steps won't actually be fitted to the body until near the end. Edit: Just done the other pair. Unfortunately, while giving the middle step a few brushes with a file so that it fitted, it took off into space, I know not where. I wonder how many lost bits are scattered around the room waiting to be found!!! However, I was in luck; Brynkits do a useful etch of bits and pieces including steps, and one was spot on :-)

I've also added the coal-rails to the bunker top, and supports for the roof to the top of each cab side: Not visible, bit I've drilled pilot holes in the tank tops for fittings, namely water-filler, vent and what I think is the injector for the top feed. This last is going to be interesting; can't find a casting anything like it. Will probably need to knock something up. Nigel

First steps with the rear of the body; fitting beading around the cab openings on either side, using 5 amp fuse wire: This is the sort of job which I don't look forwards to but hopefully goes a bit better than anticipated! I straightened a length of the wire, and started on the straight vertical bit at the front of the opening. When I reached the curved bit I shoved a cocktail stick against the cut-out edge and guided the wire around that, moving the cocktail stick around the opening until all was done. I checked each bit while doing it, and gave the wire a nudge if it needed it. It's possible to go back and make minor adjustments if necessary; the objective is to make the curve a smooth one. The rear vertical bit has a very slight bend in it which has defeated my efforts at correction, but painted I don't think it'll be noticeable. I went back and cleaned off the excess solder next to the beading, using a sharp knife (chisel type blade) and wet-and-dry. The nice thing about 188 solder is that excess can be carved away quite easily. Since the pic was taken I've gone back and done a final tidy-up. The two things down on the left are the sandboxes, each made up of a single fold-up etch. Nigel

On with the body. Obvious thing to do next was the smokebox: After adding the front part of the smokebox saddle (see previous post), I bent the smokebox wrapper to more or less the right shape, using rolling bars for most of it then bending the bottom bits down manually. The brass tube at the front was then tinned; I use Carr's 188 solder and Green Label flux for most things, flows very easily and getting a a smooth coat around front and back edges of the tube was very easy. I used small battens of hardwood at the base of each side to hold the wrapper in position (stops fingers getting burnt!), sloshed more flux over to help heat transmission, then whacked on the soldering iron, starting at the top and working down. When the top half was done it was safe to remove the battens and take a breather. The bottom bits were done using the battens again, still working downwards until the wrapper was correctly soldered to the saddle. All went as easily as I'd hoped. The smokebox front I'd deliberately etched slightly high, and this was reduced until it fitted. The diameter was more or less spot on, just a smidgen over, so getting it in the right place and soldering it was straight forward. A few brushes with a file around the edges reduced it to the wrapper diameter and got rid of excess solder at the same time. While I was about it, I added the front and rear buffer beam overlays. The only distinguishing feature of these is the raised circular area around the coupling hook slot. The one bit I hadn't etched, because at the time I wasn't sure what was needed, was the piston front end cover which sits in front of the smokebox, and associated bits. So these were drawn up and added to an etch I was about to send to PPD. Waiting for these to finish the front area, I started to look at what was needed further back.

History - part 3 Etches back from PPD, I knocked up and fitted the firebox, boiler and smokebox, after fitting the footplate subframe: The subframe included fold-up splasher sides, and a couple of fold-up tabs further back, which allowed me to accurately position it under the footplate while I ran some solder round the edges. The firebox front consisted of 4 identical formers, soldered together, with a slightly smaller one behind to act as a former for the main firebox wrapper, and a 3/4 circular one in front to act as a locator for the boiler tube, which was K&S. Once the firebox wrapper had been formed and attached, the firebox front was filed to shape, then the boiler wrapper attached to the boiler tube and that soldered to the firebox front. The next size up tube went on the front as a base for the smokebox wrapper. So at this point I had a complete firebox/boiler/smokebox assembly. The tank tops were then filed so that this was a snug fit. The smokebox was intended to rest on a fold-up saddle, but It had turned out a bit too high so the bits were separated and the front and back reduced to the correct height. The smokebox/boiler/firebox was fitted using the saddle rear to support the smokebox, as seen in the pic; the saddle front was fitted later when the smokebox wrapper was added. Finally, a slitting disc was used to remove the boiler underside where the gearbox/motor was to go. I could now try gearbox/motor combinations. As I suspected, the 1220 was a bit too wide to fit easily into the gap I'd left in the firebox front. I ended up with a 1020 and the Compact + gearbox. This shows the chassis ready to go. Testing it, it still managed the 26" radius curve, just, and was fine on the 29" radius curve. It needed the body on and a bit of extra weight to run smoothly, because with this suspension on all wheels it's fairly easy for a wheel to rise up otherwise. That's the "historical" stuff. Now it's down to finishing the body; I'll post a bit more shortly.