gary_lner
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Posts posted by gary_lner
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On 21/03/2020 at 22:55, GEARJAMMER said:
Has anyone heard any whispers or rumors as to how progress is going with these wagons and when we might start to see them in the shops?
Ive got 8 of the RevolutioN JNA's and have decided 12 is probably a realistic length to model in 00 scale, one more set of 4 when I next visit those nice chaps at Kernow MC, Guildford and I will be done with them (unless I decide to get a rake of GBRf ones to model the Southampton Gypsum train) and looking to start building a rake of 12 O&K wagons before the 59s arrive?
There's been an update on the Dapol digest page. They are next in line aftet the turbot wagons have been made. They also said they are planning to release these around the same time as the 59 just no actual dates given.
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Goos afteroon all. I hope everyone is staying safe.
Well it's taken a few days to get back to the wagon but as I had a day off I thought I'd try and finish the kit. I removed the extra V hanger that I shouldn't have glued on in the first place and I think I've ended up with a good first effort at a kit. The brake rigging is very fiddly bit I guess that gets easier with practice. I've still got to add couplings and some weight to the wagon and glue the roof on but I'll do all that when they are all built and ready to be painted. Any feedback is appreciated.
Regards Gary
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For all those Intrested in the XC mk3sd Hornby have released a bumper edition of the engine shed blog with some useful information on it. Running numbers and product codes etc
https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/news/the-engine-shed/easter-egg-cross-country-trains-coaches
Regards Gary
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26 minutes ago, Shaun66 said:
Hi Gary,
Do you have the product codes for the coaches to make the GW04 set as I need to order one and have been trying to get my head around what ones I need.
Many thanks
Shaun
Hi Shaun if I've got this right it's straight out of the 2020 catalogue
R4896A TGS 49104 coach A
R4915B TS 48110 coach B
R4915C TS 48131 coach D
R4895A TSD 4811. Coach C
those numbers match up with the GW04 running numbers.
Hope that helps
Regards Gary
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7 minutes ago, Islesy said:
That is right Gary,
Best wishes,
Paul.
Thats fantastic thank you for you're help with that Paul i really appreciate it. I'll be ordering a set now.
Thanks once again
Regards Gary
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24 minutes ago, Islesy said:
Coach numbers for each set were provided to us by GWR’s own Fleet Manager and reflect the sets that were current in May 2019, when the artwork was completed and sent to the factory.
Set GW01 2+4 CASTLE
43092
48103 Coach D
48105 Coach C (TSD)
48101 Coach B
49101 Coach A
43186
Set GW02 2+4 CASTLE
43040
48106 Coach D
48102 Coach C (TSD)
48104 Coach B
49102 Coach A
43016
Set GW03 2+4 CASTLE
43093
48112 Coach D
48108 Coach C (TSD)
48107 Coach B
49103 Coach A
43154Set GW04 2+4 CASTLE
43170
48131 Coach D
48111 Coach C (TSD)
48110 Coach B
49104 Coach A
43187I hope that this helps you out?
Best wishes,
Paul.
Hi Paul that does help alot thank you for that information. Looking at the 2020 catalogue the running numbers on the coaches actually match up with the GW04 2+4 castle set that you have provided so that's great. Would I be right in thinking looking at the catalouge that R4915C will have the D suffix on the coach.
Regards Gary
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Hi everyone. I'm sorry if this has been answered already but I'm looking at ordering a set of gwr sliding doors mk3s and in terms if the TS Hornby have R4915 R4915A,B,C,. But what one of these will be coach D as seen on the actual sets.
Any help would be great
Regards Gary
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2 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:
Its the sound and the drive lock feature where you can throttle it up and creep it along thats sold these.its light years beyond the Bchmann one,
all the ohhno ive missed the sound, you could have it done at a later date by Leggobiff anyway so nothing lost if you buy one now.
I'm one of the ones who missed out on them so I'm kicking myself. I do have a large logo 66 that'll be getting fitted with sound as soon as hattons get the decoders in stock. Apparently they are all in Germany atm. Just need to stick it on a rolling road and see how it runs before then.
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47 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:
click below for page one and at the top who posted first information here
I stand corrected. Thought it was the Dave that free at last has posted the link for that was the Dave that manages all the projects and would know the answers to the questions everyone has.
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4 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:
No one is getting at Dave asking a question,as for being busy while im asking the question here he was doing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBaXdtvAUzs
if only i had known i could have asked Harriet,sorry Dave the question there.
I thought thas what these pages were for,ask questions and gain knowlege of experts who frequent them.
Well engineered no,ive spent 55 years in engineering and as said if they need drilled out it should have been picked up before production
There is so much so good on it spoilt by silly quality errors.
I'm pretty sure that's not the Dave that started this thread about the 66, and all the other threads about hattons originals.
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12 minutes ago, Philou said:
I don't want to divert this thread too much, unless the OP @gary_lner says OK, but having completed up to a point my set of Parkside wagons, I'm going to go back to my really, really old unmade Airfix mineral wagons to compare the ease, or not, of their construction by way of comparison - I'll post here, if I may?
Cheers and take care out there,
Philip
Ratio signals to follow - but they might be more problematic - moving parts by the zillion in them AND I want to put LEDs as backlights and I'll need some ideas for that!
Toodle pip!
Morning Philip that's absolutely fine feel free to post anything you make. I'd be interested to see what the airfix kits look like aswell.
Regards Gary
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26 minutes ago, The Johnster said:
I had a little trouble with the roof of the Python I built last week, Gary, and had to persuade it a little at the ends; it didn't quite match the curve of the van ends. I put rubber bands around both ends fairly tightly and left it overnight while the glue went off; all is well now! I think Parkside roofs (rooves?) are thinner than Kitmaster ones, and possibly distort a little in storage. The one on my recent Km meat van sat perfectly straight away, and the Parkside roof on the current Fruit D is pretty good but needed to be held firmly in place at one end for 5 minutes before it sat properly.
Glad it's not just my van roof that needs a little persuasion then, it's mainly the ends as you've noticed. Thanks for the tip with the elastic bands I'll be sure to give that a try. Thanks again.
Gary
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1 hour ago, Philou said:
@gary_lner You asked to see other 'Parksiders'. here are the ones I started during the week in various stages of completion. There's all the brake gear to be done, rooves, ballasting and the buffers. Couplings will wait:
Ex-LNER long CCT van, insulated meat van, tube wagon, ex-SNCF 'cupboard door' wagon and ex-LNER bogie brick wagon. (The 'cupboard door' wagon WAS British built for the French after WWII and came back to the UK in the 50s.)
@The Johnster Pah! All that kit to build a couple of trucks! Here's a more minimalist approach:
Yes - seriously. The only thing that's not in the photo is a piece of wet'n'dry and a very fine paint brush for the application of the glue. I do have a question for you Richard, you mentioned that you replace your buffers with metal ones. From where do you source them? The CCT wagon above has nice metal ones, (but they need a shave to flatten the tops as per the original ones), but in the photo in a previous post, a few of my Airfix trucks have lost theirs whilst in store and others have not yet had them fitted - if I do one, I may as well do them all. Go on, be a chum and tell
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Cheers and take care - we're looking at a lock-in possibly until JUNE!
Philip
Wagons are looking great Philip thanks for sharing. How well do the rooves fit on you're cct and meat van wagon? The one on The wagon I'm making is pretty much equal but looks like it might need a slight persuasion to fit nicely on the top when glueing.
Regards Gary
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1 hour ago, 57xx said:
Don't worry too much about the glass/mirror, I hardly ever use it, especially with Parkside kits that go together well without help. One thing to note on your brake gear - one side on needs one V hanger. Here's a similar LNER van I did a while back to illustrate this.
Yeah you are right. Think I got a bit to carried away with the glue lol. Luckily an easy fix at this stage thanks for pointing that out to me. You're LNER van looks great aswell.
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1 hour ago, Phil Parker said:
Extra detail is something for later models IMHO. The first step is to stick something together. With a few working wagons under your belt, you move on and develop but if the OP feels that he's got to go for the ultimate model straight away, he won't get started. I suggest everyone keeps quiet and lets him have a go. Just don't mention how addictive it is... ;-)
Fear not Phil. I had an early shift at work today so I've spent some time this afternoon cutting and sanding the nibs of the components. And had a crack at glueing the main body together. And i think for my first try it's gone well. Please see the picture below. I've also done some work on the solebars. And the little tip about solvent in the bearing hole was great they went in with no problems at all. I'm going to let this firm up over night before I glue the solebars to the floor. I also want to find a piece of glass or a mirror just to help with that.
Thanks to all the contributions to this thread so far. Would love to see more examples of other people's work.
I can really see how this can become addictive.
Regards Gary
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6 minutes ago, JohnR said:
I've just started out trying to build kits, and the Parkside range are excellent. They are easy to go together, and you can produce something very reasonable with minimal equipment.
The other plus thing for me (in 4mm) is that if you muck up a kit, they're only £10-£15, and you get experience.
Sounds good to me thank you
Regards Gary
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22 minutes ago, cheesysmith said:
I have to agree with everything said, except most of the tools are not required for a first attempt.
I just built a PC02A, 5 plank wooden open wagon. Time 1hr30. Tools used were a tweezer for small bits, a cheap brush for EMA plastic weld, a jar of plastic weld, a craft knife (one out of a cheap 3 for a £1 from B&Q), and because I was lasy a snip for removing the pieces off the sprues along with a set if drill bits from home bargins for the buffers. Because I wanted to experiment, it has been fitted with accurascale buffers and instanter couplings. Just needs paint, ballast and a vac hose/transfers and is done.
Find attached the photo of the tools and the completed model.
That looks great thanks for sharing. Great shout for the accurascale buffers. The really do look like great models when they are put together even though it's not painted yet.
Thanks again
Regards Gary
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6 hours ago, Philou said:
Hi, just from my own experience having started some Parkside kits this week - my first ever as before those it was all Airfix (tho' I still have some unbuilt to start too).
A word - take care with Butane-1-one (Ethyl Methyl Ketone) same as MEK (just doesn't have quite the same 'ring' to it (unintended organic chemistry pun there!)) as it is very volatile and don't sniff it as it's not very good for your health.
I'm using Tamiya liquid cement (in the square bottle) applied with a fine brush. Unfortunately it doesn't have the same capillary action as MEK so needs to be applied sparingly. I'm taking two days to construct a wagon - as I'm taking care to remove flashing and mould lines first. I assemble the underframe to the base first as the buffer beam (those wagons that have them) gives me a datum from which then to assemble the body. I allow that to 'go off' over night then finish the brake assemblies the next day.
If the underframe is assembled correctly the wheels will end up square (in a vertical plane) as there is a little play in the top-hat bearings should you not have a piece of glass. What I did find was that the tube wagon 'crabs' almost imperceptibly due to the two sole bars being not perfectly placed opposite each other - take care on that, it's worth while. I shan't make the same error with the extra-long CCT van!
Having built Airfix wagons, I find that the instructions are somewhat less clear and the illustrations a little, shall we say, amateurish compared to the Airfix ones of yore. Also, the plastic is rather thinner (perhaps more accurate in profile in that respect) and is more flexible - but nontheless quite nice when put together, tho' the lack of locating lugs for some parts can be disconcerting at first.
A question: I am limited in the variety of paints that I can source around here and I'm primarily stuck with acrylics. What can I use as a base coat to ensure that the acrylics will adhere to the plastic?
Take care out there everyone,
Cheers and good luck with your models,
Philip
Hi philip
Glad to see I'm not the only one tacking the plunge with some kits. Good luck with yours and thanks for the advice.
Regards Gary
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9 hours ago, gobbler said:
Gary
When you start, you won't want to stop!
My glue of preference is tamiya extra thin, in a little cube shaped bottle.
My trusty scalpel, my favoured blade is a 10A
A metal square is recommended.
You'll find later on there are wagons you'll want but cant get. Peter tatlow's books on LNER wagons will become a must. Then you can start a bit of scratch building. Have a peek at my thread.
All the best.
Keep safe and have fun.
Scott
Thank you Scott I think you're right once I start I won't want to stop. I'm not in total lockdown yet so I can pace myself lol. I'll be sure to have a look at you're thread.
Thanks once again
Stay safe aswell
Regards Gary
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10 hours ago, WM183 said:
HI Gary,
Parkside kits are wonderful. They come complete with everything but paint and glue, and build up into wonderful models. Some of the plastic brake bits can be a bit fragile, but other than that there are no problems. The tools I'd recommend for a first kit are pretty similar to those already mentioned:
Good hobby knife and extra blades. I like Swann Morton knives and no 10 and 10a blades
A couple cheap mini files. Pound stores or cheap tool vendors often sell sets of 5 or 6 of different shapes. Don't use good Swiss files on plastic!
A cutting mat with a grid. Saves your desk top and gives a guide for building things square.
Wire, 0.5 and 1 mm sizes along with drills of the same size and a pin vise. You'll break a lot of the little bits, buy them in bulk from Chinese sellers on eBay.
A small machinists square is nice, as are a pair of tweezers but neither are a necessity.
Parkside kits in 7mm have compensation built in so are easy to build square. In 4mm use a mirror as described above.
Glue - I use tamiya plastic cement. It comes in a handy bottle with a screw top and a brush applicator. Open a window, it's stinky stuff!
I paint mine by spraying with a spray can of flat black primer ( this does all the brake bits and frame!) and then I paint the body, roof, etc with Vallejo paints by brush.
Have fun. They're great kits!
Amanda
Thank you for the great information Amanda. The tips about painting will come in use aswell.
Thanks again
Regards Gary
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17 hours ago, davefromacrossthepond said:
Gary,
Be careful. You are entering an environment which is very addicting!
Dave
Thanks Dave I think you may be right there.
Regards Gary
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On 26/03/2020 at 16:37, Phil Parker said:
To be honest, you'll be fine without those on the more modern kits. I've build dozens of Parkside kits and never used a broach (used them on other kits!) and rarely a drill bit.
To fit bearings, I put a drop of MekPak in the hole, let the plastic soften and then shove the bearing in. No need to drill.
The glass is essential but you don't need anything special - an old mirror will do the job.
The most important thing is to get started. Like most jobs you can read all you like but will learn more the first time you build a kit. It might not be perfect but you'll be surprised what you find out. Remember, this is just model railways. If it doesn't work, no-one dies!
Thank you for the encouraging words Phil. I'm looking forward to getting started now. Hopefully I'll have some progress photos in a few days.
Regards Gary
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3 hours ago, brossard said:
I've always used Testors liquid solvent and gel. However, as Ravenser says, any glue formulated for plastic will work. Butanone is identical to MEK.
If you are just starting out, you will need a few tools. As I think about my workbench:
- set of files, diamond ones are best I think since they don't get clogged.
- set of broaches
- sanding sticks
- piece of glass to check for flatness - an inexpensive hand mirror will do.
- knife, I use the large Olfa (yellow)
- drills, don't fall for the multi pack. You will need 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.9mm). Buy a lot, they will get dull and you will break them.
- pin vice(s) to hold your drills
- steel rule
I've bought loads of tools over the years, most stay in the toolbox. I tend to use the basics most of the time.
Have a look at Eileens Emporium, https://eileensemporium.com/ they have just about everything you need in the tool line.
Don't assume the kit has everything you need. Parkside kits do include wheels and transfers. You will need paint. Some parts, like rodding, should be brass wire, not plastic. A pack or two of 0.020" (0.5mm) and 0.032" (0.9mm) brass wire will come in handy, again from Eileens.
The biggest pitfall is building the wagon off square. Heartbreaking to finish the model only to find it rocks on the track. Parkside are quite good but it pays to take your time and ensure things are true. Use the glass for this. It is not a race, so be patient and let the glue set before moving on.
Parkside instructions tend to quite good. You will also want to check pictures and a good source for this is Paul Bartletts picture collection:
https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/paulbartlettsrailwaywagons
John
Good afternoon John thank you for getting back to me and for the great information you've given me. I have most of the tools on the list just missing the glass some of the drill bits and broaches. So I'll look at getting them asap and give Eileens emporium a look aswell.
Thanks once again
Regards Gary
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Hello everyone I hope you are all keeping safe with everything going on in the world and getting some time to do some work on you're railways.
As a back up self isolation plan I put an order in for some Peco Parkside kits from the L.N.E.R variety and some glue to go along with it. I've gone for duluxe materials plastic magic for the kit. Are there any other types of glues that people recommend? The instructions recommend liquid cement which I remember using many years ago to build kits but plastic magic seems to be the way to go there days looking at reviews etc. Has anyone built any of these kits just using plastic magic or similar glues? Would this glue be suitable for the bearings to be glued in? Other glues I have to hand would be UHU that I've used for some Metcalfe buildings.
I've always been tempted to get build these kits and thought now might be the time.
Any help would be great and if there any any pitfalls I can avoid whilst building these kits please let me know.
Thanks again and stay safe
Regards Gary
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KRModels announce a GT3 Model
in KR Models
Posted
I've mentioned the front bogie tilting/jumping on the first curve in the video on YouTube and it's on the list of fixes to happen for final production. I also asked about what kind of packaging will the GT3 be coming in and it will similar to what hattons and Dapol use with a hard box etc.
Roll on the next couple of months so we all have our what's shaping up to be great version of the GT3. Got to get my hands on some rolling stock for it now.
Congratulations Keith and Michael.
Regards Gary