Podhunter

I don't think the newer chassis are wholly plastic. I believe that they are mostly mazak with a plastic keeper plate, which (a) keeps the wheels in place and (b) holds the electrical pick-up springs. The keeper plate is moulded in one piece with the lugs that keep loco body and chassis together (i.e. you don't need screws to fix the chassis to the body). There have certainly been changes over the years: not all chassis are fitted with traction tyres on the centre wheel, some of which are flangeless. I think that some also had a sprung rear wheel. What hasn't changed for several decades is the overall shape and those fixing lugs: I've fitted a modern 0-6-0 chassis to a 30-year-old Southern E2. The modern motors are a lot smaller than the X04, resulting in an empty cab free of the back-end of the X04 with its chunky magnet. However, none of the above is documented anywhere that I know.

It looks like they are reduced in price because the manufacturer is introducing new models. For example, the Cameo 2 is also on offer at the moment (September 2017). It's replacement is the Cameo 3.

The photos (in British Railways Modelling magazine October 2017) make an excellent impression. To my eyes they are better than the computer screen. The magazine stays where you put it, you can see the entire double-page without making any mouse movements or clicking a keyboard, and concentrate on those fine photos with no pop-up distractions. And you see the track plan without having to search back through hundreds of posts. A round of applause for Little Muddle!

On 13-Sep-17 Bachmann announced an upgraded version of the 36-557 DCC decoder. However, the announcement neglects to tell us what those new features are. That is, it lists a number of features but doesn't emphasise those that are new. Additionally, it fails to tell us how to distinguish the upgraded version from the older version. I enquired about this and received a helpful reply from Bachmann's customer service manager. In summary: The new feature is RailCom. The older version didn't have RailCom The chip is mounted on a blue printed circuit (PC) board. The old version has a green PC board The new version is packaged in a transparent bubble on a colourful card. The older version was presented in a humdrum cardboard box

Would Bachmann Collett bogies be suitable? Bachmann part no. 36-010. The cost is only one pound more than the wheel set.

Kadee couplers, as I'm sure you know, originate from the USA. They are modelled after knuckle couplers that are widely used on prototype US rolling stock. Knuckle couplers don't just pull -- they push as well -- unlike a UK 3-link coupling. Consequently, US rolling stock tends not to have buffers, because those knuckle couplers prevent stock colliding. On tight (small-radius) model curves you must consider the problem of buffer-lock on UK stock. Buffer-lock occurs when couplers are too short and cause the wagon or coach buffers to latch behind the buffers of the adjoining wagon. When using Kadee couplers on buffer-less US models, there's no possibility of buffer-lock. On UK models, buffer-lock becomes a problem on tight curves if the Kadee shank is too short. Hence the recommendation of others to use a long shank Kadee #21 on your small-radius curves. If you use the #5 Ol' Reliable, you should experiment to find the best location to prevent buffer-lock.

Can you post a close-up photo of the underside of the bogie?

Are those locos constructed using split axles? If split axles are assembled incorrectly they would cause wobble.

Mallard60022 wrote: My 64XX Baccy Panniers require 6 Pin Decoders. I'd try a Hornby one but they are Baccy Loco's! I'd try a Baccy Decoder but have been 'warned' about them! Somewhat off topic, but Hornby don't make 6-pin decoders, so that question is easily answered. You don't, in general, need to match loco manufacturer with decoder manufacturer. Ignore hearsay rumours and rely on evidence from someone who has used the decoder you want to use.

At RailWells on Sat 12-Aug-17 I noticed some Southwark kits on the Roxey stand.

With 3-rail locos, the left and right wheels are electrically connected together and to the chassis. The centre rail pick-up is isolated from the chassis. The motor is connected one wire to the chassis and the other wire to the centre pickup. To convert to 2-rail you need insulated wheels on one or both sides of the loco. Then you need wheel pickup contacts, usually made of something like phosphor-bronze springy strip. That needs fixing to the chassis in a way that maintains its electrical isolation. The main obstacle in that approach is the availability of suitable insulated wheels, and it modifies your 3-rail chassis. Clearly Hornby stopped making those wheels a long time ago, so they are unlikely to be available as spares. Your best bet would be to find the 2-rail version of that same loco and swap its body for your legacy loco's body.

Your headline is correct in using the term 'silicone' (with an 'e'). 'Silicon' (without an 'e') is a brittle metallic element. You wouldn't use it for fixing anything. Silicone is common shorthand for glues and other compounds whose characteristics include stickiness and flexibility.

There's no answer to that question unless you know how much current they draw from a 9v supply. Fiddling with resistors is a hassle. Why not buy a 9v wall wart?

Right now there are no implications: the UK is still part of the EU. Brexit is a process that has started but is nowhere near finished. Until 2019, when the UK formally leaves the EU, carry on as usual.

My entry form to your group is in the post! Allan's posts are fascinating, educational and demonstrate his dedication to realism and accuracy. And he has a sense of humour.

It doesn't help when both connecting wires are the same colour (e.g. black) in loco and tender. If you have the opportunity, substitute a different colour for one of those connecting wires: it will help when you have to solve a simlar problem in the future.

You'll love Ian Rathbone's book A Modeller's Handbook of Painting and Lining.

FWIW I saw a frogman's hut advertised on eBay last year! I messaged the vendor to correct him but received no response. The auction concluded -- but who bought the frogman's hut? And did they have a 1:76 scale frog to sit inside?

Try Debris of War. Their home page says "I am pleased to announce that I have purchased the Realistic Modelling Services product range".

FWIW ScaleScenes sell a card kit for a Clyde Puffer and a fishing boat in 1:76 scale.

Manufacturers are obliged to fit radio-interference suppressors such as a capacitor, but you are not. Today you can see that the major manufactures fit both a capacitor and one or two ferrite chokes (inductors). However, the motor will operate fine without such electronic decoration. You only have to worry about the neighbours who may wonder why their TV is displaying a picture of a blizzard when they want to watch X-Factor. I suggest that, should your conscience trouble you, you solder in a capacitor after the chassis is behaving perfectly. Adding a capacitor has no effect on the motor but may serve to calm the fiery sparks you can see emitted by the X04 carbon brushes when operating. And the neighbours can resume watching X-Factor.

I'm sure that you can fix it. First, throw away the grey capacitor: it's an ancient variety and its confusing you. If you subsequently want to add radio interference suppression to your chassis, replace it with a modern, physically smaller, capacitor. With the capacitor gone, there's no 'electronics' involved. The chassis is live and connected electrically to the wheels on one side and also to the frame of your X04 motor. The wheels on the other side are insulated and current is collected by the brown springy metal (phosphor-bronze) bits. They should be screwed to the chassis with an insulating bush to isolate them electrically. Connect the collectors to the motor insulated side using fine wire. Here are some photos of X04 motors including the brushes and wiring.

It's always hard to comment on colours in digital photos, but the impression I get is that of Red Devon cattle rather than South Devon. But I defer to the farming experts. Whatever, they look good!

Could you describe what you mean by 'erratic running'? If you swap the DCC chip for a blanking plug is running still erratic on DC?

Commercial loco manufacturers fit small capacitors to DC motors to help reduce interference with devices such as televisions and radios. The absence of the capacitor should not affect your loco. However, it may create interference. The way to test for that is to wait for your neighbours to ask if you are having problems with your telly.