halsey

OK - new (related topic) DCC in use I haven't delved at all deeply into CV settings but the more I'm "driving trains" the more I miss the feel of DC and the tangible connection between what you do with the control dial and how it relates to the loco's movement - as my DCC is set up this seems at best unpredictable and at worst very annoying Is it me, is it my settings, is it my system choice - I'm not prepared to move away from handheld with a dial - PA2 Please don't bury me with heavily IT based replies note the topic title but I'm happy to learn more Cheers

Curved points in use on my layout - historically not a fan BUT they are working very well so my lack of faith was misplaced. Do look at my "bring it all to the front" wiring/conduit solution if access is an issue for you as this was possibly constructionally the greatest success of my layout revisions

Tried that it didn't help and I've just tried a shut down and full new start and that doesn't help - its not that I can't access/use the content its just different and NOT in a good way

No idea and I'm not a techy type at all so haven't a clue the laptop has been off for 2 weeks which isn't normally the case BUT nothing updated or changed when I turned it on last night...………... and all other IT is as it was......

Just got to this as I've been away - are you sure plastic sheds wont give you a condensation issue??? How are you going to insulate/heat them - sorry if I've missed that already...…………. I'll now watch with interest………….

I've been away - just got back - the bridge is only placed for a photo so final position is yet to be decied in favour of location close to station building and width of platforms whch are yet to be cut. BTW what has happened to the site whilst I've been away I seem to have a different page layout with 30% of my screen (to the RH) being set aside for adverts and a much smaller RMW content display area???????? BFN

I know "SuperQuick" kits are a bit like marmite but I'm a fan ………………. This is the first one purpose-built for the new layout - loads of work still needed sorting edges and weathering but I've not made this one before and IMHO it has come out pretty well. My additional tips with these kits - loads of small crocodile clips, rocket glue as its drying speed on card is great and it gives just enough time to adjust things before "grab" sets in, I very often apply it with a very small brush, also a small wallpaper edge roller which is great for flattening parts and gluing folded "tabs" or "lining" parts together

Final report on the Heljan Railbus - the original retailer refunded my costs in full (incl my postage costs) the DCC installer was sadly less generous and only refunded the bare minimum which was poor bearing in mind he clearly didn't test the loco before sending it back to me as others have suggested should have happened - but taking all factors into account especially that I did this from an armchair with no petrol or parking costs I'll write it off to experience even though I'm £20'ish out of pocket. Back to modelling...………………...

Sorry the "Rails" item was mentioned on my other DCC related thread which has more content re the trials and tribulations of securing good running DCC stock "Rails" have admitted today (but only after I chased) that they haven't dispatched it yet (6 days after payment) due to a computer problem - no compensation offered. It better be good when it finally gets here!

Very pleased to report my private eBay £54 DCC fitted and tested 3F was a great success - immaculate and after an initial mini service runs really well - considering the 21 pin decoder is worth £20 what's not to like! The retail eBay item from "Rails" hasn't arrived yet despite being fully paid for on Sunday - and its now Friday!

Ha! - that can't be done as it forms a continuous run around the whole space...………….. What I will probably do is leave enough see through - above fencing "gaps" to keep the feel also the entry road/junction and the open ground cul de sac end (which might have a Romany caravan and grazing horses) will provide context and I'll probably only model a max of 6 poor quality houses (one boarded up) and maybe a tired corner shop Cheers!

I have decided to go with the street and terraced fronts idea for the "roof" with the rural "B" road ending in a cul-de-sac at the (top LH) tunnel mouth end - so I have now done the solid substructure work removed all the temporary braces got the mess out of the way and lowered the "roof to give a better edge to the road/retaining wall top. I'm not intending to model this for quite a while so am happy to have more advice/comments I just wanted to complete the messy building work - I do like to keep the loops useable as I prefer modelling with 2 trains running. I cant get outside to handle the 5ft lengths of MDF to cut the platform tops cos of this bl**dy weather - so I've just bought another eBay Bachmann 3F steam DCC fitted loco instead - it was very cheap at £54 (but from a good source) so we'll see - I've done it with my eyes open! Sorry the sketch isn't that good but you should get the idea ……………………..

Ha! You credit me with more creativity than I think I have, but we will see - I do tend (inevitably) to think of canal tunnel type solutions having spent the last 50+ years cruising through them - hence scrubland, a reservoir, industrial wasteland or even a street of Victorian houses and an access road all fit in my book ………………. Hmmmmmmmm............... just thinking/writing that last one has got me thinking - it exists (canal) in Cookley Staffs and could look right (I could glue 1/2 depth house fronts to the backwall) - no rush to resolve this as I want to continue with the station and then the canal basin - I just want a plan/theme in my mind so I can conclude the building of the substructure to get the mess out of the way. Cheers

Lots to think about here - PLEASE keep your thoughts coming - "Chimer" I really don't want to cover up quite as much track as you suggest - I like my arches as they work very well with the loco shed area and the current removeable "roof" will terminate in a Metcalfe double tunnel extending a little more than the wall which I think will be enough AND I do want to have enough space to develop a village in the LH top corner. Possibly the derelict factory "TP69" but I think the access would have to be imagined as I can't see how to make it real but I have a few days away from trains so might come back fresh and see a way to do it?? Cheers

Hi, I'm looking for inspiration/ideas...………………………………. I am trying to work out whether to model this area as a tunnel or just leave this is as a wall with open easy access to the countryside tracks below - obvious requirement is that any "lid" must be very easily removeable which precludes elaborate modelling but what ideas do you guys have for this "blank canvass" - my thoughts so far are simple rough scrubland with perhaps an abandoned cars/spoil/wasteland theme? FYI - its 4ft long and the majority is 8inches wide and not quite as important to the layout overall as the photo makes you think The retaining arches are a "given" for the mdf wall as they are a great backdrop for the yard (and the kits have been purchased!) Cheers

IMHO good progress on platforms - ramps are solid balsa from my late Dads stock which I found when clearing their bungalow after Mums passing last year so it feels good to be able to use it here - baseboards/track all cleaned up and platforms sanded ready for small amount of filling pin heads and painting the edges before the tops are cut and applied. Really pleased I abandoned my first try - thanks for the guidance chaps...……………….. Cheers

Just found this thread...………... I am a fan of the self adhesive Art Printers ID backscenes and have used a number of them - they aren't as bad to handle as you might think and I have always managed to get a 5ft length up in one go BUT if the length worries you if you cut it (with a very sharp blade) in half it would be easier - they are only tough to get right around curves. IMHO you do need to paint the underlying surface beforehand.

Well I have taken the plunge once again and bought a s/h steam loco from "Rails" with DCC already fitted and tested (and a 60 day return) so hopefully this one will be OK - Bachmann OO 31-128 3000 CLASS ROD BR BLACK E/E WEATHERED LOCO 3036 DCC - they were asking £90/offers and I got it for a cheeky first offer of £75! I have bought from these guys before one VG one returned and their customer service is good. I also had an accumulated eBay Nectar voucher which I didn't even know I had so the net cost was £19 - result (I hope) ! Cheers

Sadly I think you are right - the price point of our hobby doesn't seem to imply/g'tee any form of worthwhile quality control but again not quite my point here which is that it seems as thought DCC ready doesn't mean its been tested (PCB etc) and actually IS DCC ready...………………..

My point is DCC if faulty is a harder issue to resolve for most people and generally more confusing and more expensive...…………….your other examples were not referenced by me...………..

The Heljan Railbus is now back with DCC installer and it is acknowledged as being faulty - either the PCB or the motor? The situation isn't resolved as yet but I'm confident it will be as both parties involved (the brand new retail supplier and the DCC installer) are reputable and established retailers and Heljan dealers. BUT My question is how do you reliably buy a DCC loco other than buying a brand new and tested model from one source - is this the only way? It seems as thought the world of DCC has opened up a whole new level of risk which average modellers (rather than electronic hobbyists) are unable to resolve - particularly the question "is the decoder or the PCB"? I enjoy the "chase" of sourcing good used stuff but with DCC locos this seems to be too much of a risk …………………..buying DCC ready is no use if you don't know the condition of the PCB Back to modelling...…………………….

I was "coaxed" into embracing large radius curves from the outset of my re-plan and I haven't regretted it as the layout has progressed - IMHO and based on knowledge gained no2 and no3 std rad curves should be hidden. Will follow this with interest...……………..

Whilst the platforms are under construction/drying I have made a start on the other messy job - the "retaining" structure for the hidden tracks and I've mocked up the wall/arches effect from bits lying around - I have bought the last of Jerry Freestones kits to do this afresh when ready. I'm not sure if this "tunnel" is going to remain open topped or not but the wall is important to the loco sidings/stabling and to the illusion of the main lines having gentle radius curves (Chris ) An interesting benefit of using the 12mm XPS foam was that I was able to cut a 3mm channel into it to retain the bottom of the 3mm MDF and more importantly the curve the channel for which I cut out using an old 2nd radius curve as a template/guide. BTW - none of the brace/supports are permanent

A model railway without a platform in sight - docks? coal yard?

Hi David, Thanks for the detail. My rail "base" i.e. base- board to rail top is 7mm and I've just managed to get some 3mm MDF (took the ply back) so I will end up with 18mm from baseboard or 11mm from rail tops (plus glue) as all surfaces will be painted - so that should be OK The edge blocks are screwed into the ply base the edge is glued and pinned to the blocks and I will use the same strip wood to create a series of cross members to not only hold it all together but to provide support for the MDF top Cheers