halsey

It works! Constructionally its OK and strong - the detailed modelling aspects are not great so I guess it will just have to be painted matt black until I can think of something - the HUGE benefit is no rebuilding/re-planning needed - I've just got to sort the new track alignment across the "closing" end when the catches arrive next week and ensure that it is equally firm/solid when closed before final alignment. I'm very pleased to have put to bed my possible need to rethink - the layout works (not for everyone I know) and delivers a lot of operational satisfaction in 9'x7'. BFN

I think it's just above Kings

Happy to oblige - you might recognise one of these locations the other I cant remember myself but it might be the River Thames around Oxford?

If it wasn't a typical wobbly shed door that would be the best idea of the lot!

Hi both, I have decided not untypically for me that its "do or die" time. I have now dismantled an element of the current bridge and created 2 very solid wooden hoops over the twin tracks which butt against each other and are then "joined" across the top with a very substantial brass hinge I had lying around - it looks as though it will work BUT it needs various screwed and glued sections to dry overnight to give it a final run - I have only had to disturb/remove the twin track sections at one end where the lie of the joint will have to revised to be offset and then I will need to contrive a locking method so the (new) track sections can be correctly aligned probably with a proprietory "overthrow" type catch to pull it all together. Pictures later tomorrow if we are in business! BFN NB catches now ordered - what did we do before eBay apart from pay twice as much for everything, have to phone to find stuff, then pay to drive there and pay for parking on top! - not everyone's cup of tea I appreciate but having spent 40 years and done 1m+ miles on UK roads I hate driving!

To be honest I don't need to do that as what I've already built works well and is quite a quick fit BUT I tend to be lazy and duck under cos I cant be bothered and then I pull my ailing hip so get pi**ed off - you get the picture! Like all of us I like easy so its a compromise - I'm not bothered about this section being pretty - it just has to work as I've had one hip done and likely another next year so I'm planning ahead so the railway doesn't get pushed away if/when it happens. Thanks for the input.

I'd not even given "downwards" a thought - thanks for that I'll have a look I know some people use what I would call tall hinges but I'm not sure how the geometry works in trying to achieve a tight close gap - I might have a look in B&Q to buy some cheap ones and play

Happy days - hence my picture of my 3 hounds on the front (tug) deck!

Ha! Not just any old diesel engine! - it looks even better side on (see attached) but I haven't got any photos of my engine room other than that attached earlier.

I'm just beginning to be distracted with preparations for the forthcoming boating season (which is my primary passion) - see pic below for a proper engine - Russell Newbery DM2 18HP at 350 rpm BUT I'm struggling to live with the lift out (or grovel under) bridge section so this is making me wobble on the layout implications of changing it so I'm not progressing any modelling at the moment - it's not something I really want to address pre next winter so posts will be few and far between for now..............if I could hinge it it would be a massive improvement but the gradient is in the way - I was worried about this aspect right from the outset so I only have myself to blame. It's not hugely negative, it simply needs more thought and perhaps a renewed perspective in 6 months time! Meanwhile I'm enjoying playing trains.................... BFN

I remain challenged, inspired and in awe!

The idea came from a very historic RMW posting on manual uncoupling issues it's not original - I suppose I could say I just "picked" it up!

meet my new best friend - "hand of god" uncoupling tool works very well - it's a no6 dental probe!

TT in situ KIT not completed but it all works EXCEPT FOR my first stupid mistake - I have wired all the shed tracks in common so although they all work - they aren't isolated one from another! 5 on/off switches now ordered - a 5 position rotary switch felt a bit beyond me! Good job all my wire lengths are substantially oversized - an adopted standard philosophy which has stood me in good stead so far.

That's makes me pretty ancient then as I remember building one of these in Airfix mode when I guess I was about 9 - more than a 1/2 century ago.

True but for £8 one cant complain!

Problem solved - Pecos latest reply sheds light on it - "Our Setrack track base uses a styrene type plastic so can be glued using a styrene solvent type adhesive. Our Streamline track however uses a polythene type plastic which cannot be glued. If you have any questions please phone us on 01297 21542 ext 261." I was experimenting with a spare sleeper from my streamline track! My thanks to David as I have bought a short section of rigid setrack for the TT so that is what I will use and it will stick. re Kevins solutions - all good but as yet I haven't ventured into the realms of copper/brass and soldering - perhaps that's next winters project! BFN

Just found this - impressive!

Hi Jon/Quentin Superglue doesn't even touch it. Peco have just come back and specifically recommended - "Plastic Weld"? I'll have a look at Butanone

Hi Guys, More help please.......................... what can I use to permanently and rigidly fix Peco (track sleepers) to my Dapol (polystyrene) turntable base - David has come up with a suggestion but is there a glue that will work? I have written to both tech depts. I need to fix each product directly to one another for reasons of height so I can't use an intermediate enabling surface. Cheers. J

"Dead End" it its then See attached mock up - the "raised" section is 6mm ply which gives me a sacrificial BB topping and thereby makes the TT easier to recess without permanent damage to main BB. I will disguise the two visible edges with a wall/hedge in due course and only have one TT feed track to lift with a very gentle gradient to marry up with the TT. The shed environment will all be on the same level - not prototypical it but makes good sense for me. Good news - I finally got a superb Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 Loco deal via eBay - not cheap but truly NEW (old shop stock) - this will be my last one for a while BUT it has restored my faith. Cheers all once again - have a good weekend.

Typical - I post 2 options and the consensus is already developing to do a 3rd (i.e. something between the 2) - I'll have a play with the reality over the weekend but although I get the point and the run to the TT is doable but I think the curves after the TT might just be a stretch too far. I'll look forward to David's input at 2am! BFN

Hi K - my thoughts as well - assuming that is where the TT will now go I am struggling to find any sort of track plan to follow for this environment or is it just a case of do what fits and looks right - should I have anything complicating the route to/before the TT where there is some space - could that be a siding for coal/water etc? Cheers

OK guys where would you put the TT (and why?). Note the "feed" is now in place. I could put some track work under the branch base board with a dummy shed façade but I don't think it would be as good as the other 2 options photographed. Cheers

Wow I almost wish I hadn't asked! I was thinking of the switching being via a DPDT switch would that work as I'm assuming the only time it will be needed would be for the full 360 turn as I could wire the shed sidings to cope with the "default" wiring pattern Very thorough and a lot of food for thought - many thanks