halsey

Only got 6 or so mainline but I will check if its those which are giving trouble - I think I now know what to look for. Thanks all once again.

Re Video - my efforts are not worthy of YouTube !..................... Re wheels ............... although my stock is not new most of it is "modern/as new" predominantly E bay sourced Hornby with some Mainline - some wagons are only a couple of years old - ironically its the better quality/newer stuff which bounces more possibly because its lighter? - I will check your measurements next and report back - thanks. I didn't know changing wheels was normal I guess here we go on another steep learning curve - wheels, couplings - uncoupling methods - point motors etc etc etc....................! All good fun. Thanks

Video(s) as promised are too big to load - unless in my ignorance I'm doing something wrong?? AND a question....................... re insulfrog points - do they need "fettling" as some of my stock seems to bounce over them rather than glide through - the electrics don't as yet seem to be an issue but smoothness of travel is, or is it the way I've laid them - 2mm cork on 12mm ply very few baseboard joints and 10mm pins not overly hammered home? Thanks all J

Hi Kevin, My thoughts as well re the loop - there is plenty of room. You will note I filtered the numerous, very welcome, posts and waited to demonstrate the results, if successful, as actions/results speak louder than words - it isn't perfect but hopefully it has got a lot into a "small" space whilst resisting becoming a train set and has provided enjoyment for others as well as me on the journey so far ................with more to come. J

Hi Mike, I intend to refine this but the (speaker) wire is coded black (stripe) and white matching to the black and red on the track and connected more locally with terminal blocks and all wires are labelled and all switch terminals are marked up inside the box. I have in fact now tried all the permutations of my first attempt and, to date at least, only discovered one problem and that was at the controller end in that I needed to reverse the track feeds so the switched forward/reverse matched up. More to come as the goods sidings develop but the basic schematic has worked and the 5 sections work well so far. Next plan part of the plan is to review the bridge to see if I can make it hinged (coping with the gradient section is the issue) as the lift off although it works really well is a right pain and getting under it with my hip issues isn't a practical option. This is the only real issue with this first attempt and not a disaster if I can't better it I'll live with it. Next I want to play trains and understand more. J

FINALLY a loco has travelled around the room with no ill effects!!! Huge thanks to all who have guided me thus far - the electrics were a challenge (for me) but I have come out the other side unscathed! Massive learning curve but great fun - I know for you guys its second nature but this really was the bit I was dreading. Photos posted show......................... The start of laying out the goods yard (loop located) The wiring/control centre - note future provision for branch point motors as this section can't be easily reached by the "thumb of god" which is the method I'm going to use for the remainder - so I get off my stool! Also the start of my fold down "workbench" which needs some further work to achieve more strength.

In my defence it was the only thing I could buy locally today to keep me going yes it was £4.99 but its very good and very strong. However I think the real issue was my soldering iron tip - replacing tried and tested for new isn't always best!

Back to the old soldering iron tip , cut off about 1ft off the old solder reel, better preparation ("tonic studios craft scratcher") and "Bobs your mothers brother" - all OK today! Thanks

Don't worry about being pedantic on this cos I'm doing something stupid. I think it must be preparation and the new bits I have bought for my iron so I will revert to the old one and I have just bought a VERY small wire brush from the local craft shop so I will have another go today. J

Thanks Chris, My problem is that the track is laid and albeit not glued (apart from the bridge sections I did today) I would rather not lift and relay if possible esp as I am nearly 1/2 way through the track related soldering - but I'll review todays work slowly tomorrow and give it some thought. Lots of the books/pamphlets and web info talks of soldering to the sides being OK and perfectly doable but it just doesn't seem to me to be that easy but in reality I've got the time so perhaps 2 days "wasted" isn't that big a deal! I'll persevere. J

ANY soldering tips would be appreciated!! Just spent 5 hrs soldering the 16 bridge (rail) connections or is that normal - they have come out OK now but how to prepare the inside of the bar shape rail surface without some damage (and melting sleepers) is beyond me. In general terms soldering is not new to me but in these restricted areas there must be some tips - I am using a small tipped soldering iron and pre fluxed cored solder I'm tinning the wire and the rail surface jointing to the internal rail surface on the outside of the loop (due to restricted access issues) and the external rail on the inside of the loop. I know I am in fact a good way through as the bridge was by far the most involved (but it was the easiest to get at) but there has to be a better way???

Thanks for that - it lifts out entirely - feeds and (Flymo style) in line plugs and sockets are in hand. Have a good one!

Got it thanks - that's what I was beginning to think was the way it would work. Much appreciated - J

Using the consensus drawing #182 I am struggling to understand the relationship between feeds and switching........................... "We the committee" have agreed on 5 sections. If I've got this right 5 DPDT switches (now ordered - good old ebay) will be used to achieve the selection (or not) of either controller to be "active" in that section and through that switching process the/a feed in point will be achieved - am I right so far? What is the second (or third on the branch?) feed for and where/how does it come from? As usual responses written for an idiot to understand (me) would be much appreciated.

Photos as promised - I can't believe its only 3 months since I first got started on this - great fun so far and just the job to kick start my retirement and keep me out of the other half's way! Loads of thanks to my many helpers Note the blinds David! For those of you on the ball the carriages are simply there to make sure clearances are OK - wagons rule and always will!

Thanks Chris - I'll get going on the research or probably pop down as they are only 6 miles away - I certainly won't be wiring to the double slip if only because of cost/value! There had been mention of rotary switches is this now superceded. Just having a tidy up and then some pictures either later today or tomorrow

I have been thinking about how to move this (the electrics) forward in stages that will work for me so if I may what I would like to do is to make sure I have all the right "hardware" to hand and know that this variable is buttoned down...................... So as I see it I need a shopping list of switches - I have wire and connector blocks and soldering irons meters etc but the jargon and sourcing of switches is a minefield it would be good to see a way through with your help. I would envisage the New Modellers Shop (or Maplin) as the source of supply so would it be possible for "the committee" (Chimer and David) to outline what I need (cost/budget is an issue but I guess its important that this bit is right) so I can get the shopping done. I don't need switches with housings or fancy expensive panels as I'm quite happy making simple boxes and control panels etc. Thanks all REALLY appreciated - main track/loop areas to the above consensus plan will be completed today and I'll post pictures! BFN

Wow - thanks for this and the speed - I'll get on with track/loop first layup and report back with photos!

All good - if you are now agreed - any chance of a revised sketch PLEASE , in Chimers original format, showing power feeds but at this moment more importantly isolator positions? I am keen to get the loops laid so I can run something (anything) around the room during the coming week. My target was always to have a loco running in 2015 with loop tracks laid and a temporary power supply - I have a "new" Black 5 class to open on Christmas Day!! BFN

Wow ................I really need time to digest this lot (which is great but probably not for the next week or so!). I think I get the logic. Many thanks.

£6.20 just invested with Amazon on "the former" many thanks for the tip.

Train set?! Once I have got the main line laid so I can at least move a loco I will pause for much more thought.................. Many thanks.

Thanks for this David, My feeling is this is too complicated for me and my use - the layout won't be used by others and I cant control more than 2 control points at once - my reaction is therefore to keep it simpler with the three sections allowing for me to use the main line and goods/marshalling or branch whilst main line is going round the room. Am I wrong? I don't mind the idea of more control points but don't want to spend even more if it really wont be used - equally another D2 is only app £50 so notthe end of the world.

Many thanks - I need to digest this but it looks just what I needed and at first look its also understandable! Watch this space - progress is good but Christmas might get in the way! Have a good one!

Hi David, My thoughts are the Titanic should be left where it is .......................... It took me a while to digest that lot with lots of diversions to Google to get more info on your wording! Can I ask where would you put isolators on this layout. I am under the impression that with a twin controller it is best to let one control be responsible for the main line and for the other to do other areas. I was thinking one for main line and branch and one for goods and marshalling - if that's the right idea (experienced comments please) how do I do it? I'm really not good at proper wiring diagrams but simple sketches work for me - I have bought a couple of Peco push on side connectors JUST for the purposes of experimenting before I get in to soldering.